D A V E ' S   V O L V O   P A G E
Volvo Engine Wire Harness
CONVERSIONS
For Custom Installations
Focusing on 240 and 700 Volvos





     UPDATED: September 19, 2021      CONTACT     VIEW CART     
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N A V I G A T E   T H I S   H A R N E S S   P A G E
C O N V E R S I O N    H A R N E S S E S
240 LH 2.2 or LH 2.4 plus EZK Conversions
740 MAF Relocation Conversions
Bosch LH EFI ECU and Ignition Pin Function Diagrams
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240 LH + EZK CONVERSION HARNESSES
240 -  LH 2.2 plus EZK 117 Full Conversion Harness
for any year 240

240 -  LH 2.4 plus EZK 116 Full Conversion Harness
for any year 240

240 -  EZK 117 IGNITION ONLY Conversion Harness
(for any LH 2.2 equipped 240s)




LH 2.2 plus EZK
Full Conversion Harness

240 - LH 2.2 plus EZK 117
FULL Conversion Harness

For any year 240 non-turbo or Turbo or +T conversion. Uses any Bosch style Fuel Injector.
This harness is designed to allow the use of a MAF Sensor on EITHER side of the engine bay. It may be placed on the left side for non-turbo or the right side for a turbo.  The MAF wire leads on this harness are designed to be long enough to reach either location (no cutting). 
NEW HARNESS
Made in the Netherlands

 

Temporarily OUT OF STOCK.
If this becomes out of stock, you may still order. Manufacturing lead time will be about 3 - 4 weeks.

Email with questions.  CONTACT ME
Order Quantity:

Select Shipping Option:

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LHD harness shown here. A RHD version is also available as a special order.

Volvo 240 LH 2.2 plus EZK full conversion                                            harness.


F U L L   D E S C R I P T I O N

LH 2.2 plus EZ117K
NEW FULL CONVERSION ENGINE HARNESS

This is a conversion harness to convert ANY 240 to LH 2.2. It connects to both the engine and ignition points under your hood AND to the engine control modules under your dash. It is designed to use LH 2.2 fuel injection and EZ117K ignition components. An EZK ignition originally came in a 700 series, not in a 240. Volvo put a less desirable Chrysler ignition in the 240 made before 1989. This harness allows you to use the EZK ignition parts.
This is a perfect complement for someone planning to update a K-jet car or install a later turbo or non-turbo Volvo 4 cylinder into an earlier 240.

Harness: LH2.2 +EZK Conversion
Price: $389.00 plus shipping

Volvo 240 LH 2.2 plus EZK full conversion harness.This conversion harness is designed to be used with LOW or HIGH IMPEDANCE fuel injectors.

1.   For Low Impedance Injectors (AKA: low-Z or peak and hold type): This type was original in the Volvo 700/900 TURBO. This harness has a plug where you can plug in a Ballast Resistor Pack if needed. Any standard Volvo 700/900 type resistor pack will be fine.  This way you may use standard fuel injectors from a 700/900 TURBO or any other low-Z injectors.

2. For High Impedance Injectors (AKA: high-Z or saturated type):  This type was originally used in Volvo non-turbos, such as your original injectors found in a 240 non-turbo. This harness will work with these injectors as is with the pictured by-pass plug shown at left IN PLACE. Impedance testing methods for injectors can be found HERE.



An extensive 13 page PDF INSTALLATION GUIDE may be viewed here (1.5 mb pdf):

Updated 07/7/20
https://www.davebarton.com/pdf/HarnessLH2.2EZK.pdf

Also you can find Pin-Out Function Diagrams HERE:
https://www.prancingmoose.com/volvoharnesses.html#pinfunctions

EVERYTHING under the hood is a direct PLUG and PLAY.
There are a few wires under the dash that will need connecting. That number depends on how old your 240 is, but it can be up to 5 wires.
More complete and detailed instructions are included in the installation guide.

OVERVIEW OF UNDER-DASH WIRE CONNECTIONS FOR THIS CONVERSION:
The below MALE 4-pole plug will be found on this conversion harness. It's identified as Connector #3 in the installation guide. 
If you already have a 1985-88 240 with LH 2.2, then this plug will plug into the existing FEMALE 4-pole plug in your dash.
Wiring for other circumstances is outlined below, as well as in the Installation Guide.
 
1. Black/Red
    Blue
From ECU, Fuel Pump Relay
If you have an existing 1985–88 LH 2.2 240, plug this connector from the conversion harness into the existing mating plug in your car and these two wires are done.

Connecting to other 240:
  This wire should go to switched power (originating from ignition switch terminal 15), which offers 12v when Ignition Switch in the “RUN” position.  This source may be tapped from the back or INPUT (right) side of fuse 11, 12 or 13 (or fuse 3, 4 or 5 for a 1978 and older 240). Ensure the 12v connection you use also remains powered when the key is turned to the “START” or "CRANK" position.

If you have questions about what the "back side" or "input side" for the 240 FUSE PANEL looks like, click here for more information and images of 240 fuse panels in my 240 Fuse Panel Page. 
2. Red
From ECU
If you have an existing 1985-88 LH 2.2 240, plug this connector in and no other changes are needed for this wire.

Connecting to other 240:
  For AC idle increase. Connect to the AC relay 12v output or the 12v trigger circuit that activates the AC compressor clutch.

3. Red/Yellow
From Fuel Pump Relay, O2 Sensor, IAC Valve
If you have an existing 1985-88 LH 2.2 240, plug this connector in and no other changes are needed for this wire.

Connecting to other 240:
  This should be connected to the back or INPUT (right) side of the fuse panel for power to the fuel pumps.  This fuse location is as follows for a 240: 1979-84: Fuse 5.  1985 and later: Fuse 4. Pre-1979 240 does not have a dedicated fuse for the fuel pump, so you may use any fuse not already being used, such as Fuse 10, or you may install a new in-line fuse.

If you have questions about what the "back side" or "input side" for the 240 FUSE PANEL looks like, click here for more information and images of 240 fuse panels in my 240 Fuse Panel Page. 

If you need help with achieving proper wiring or understanding of fuel pump circuits, I have a detailed page on 240 Fuel Pump wiring here: Click here for the Fuel Pump Relay Page to see 240 Fuel Pump Relay Diagrams.

If you are converting a 240 Turbo or other K-Jet 240 and you're having trouble visualizing how this circuit powers your pumps, I have a more detailed explanation in my 240 Fuel Pump Page HERE: https://www.240turbo.com/fuelpumprelay.html#LH2.2Fuse5

4. Red/White
From Ignition Powerstage
The original wire going to pin 4 of this plug in a 1985-88 LH 2.2 240 was not used. So Pin 4 on this plug is now used as a tachometer signal wire that is available if you need one for your tachometer or any other device. You may use this wire and connect it to your tachometer signal input spade.   

The below BLUE wire (below) and connector will be found on this conversion harness. It's identified as Connector #5 in the installation guide.
5. Blue
From Ignition Powerstage
This is a power lead for the Ignition. It needs to be extended to a power input, which can be at the fuse panel.  It may be connected at fuse 11, 12 or 13 for any 1979 or later 240 (or you can use 3, 4 or 5 for 1978 and older 240).  The power should provide 12V to the coil and ignition power stage when the ignition key switch is in the “RUN” position. 

This harness wiring colors and connectors for this conversion harness are based on a typical 1985-88 240 non-turbo, so it will be almost a direct plug-in under the DASH for those years.  This harness may be adapted to any other year 240, including early 240 models with K-Jet injection, any 240 Turbo or any 240 that is being set up for a "+T" conversion.

 
This harness is designed to allow the use of a MAF Sensor on EITHER side of the engine bay. It may be placed on the left side for non-turbo or the right side for a turbo.  The MAF wire leads on this harness are designed to be long enough to reach either location. 


QUESTIONS?
Common questions are answered below.

What i
s the difference between LH 2.2 and LH 2.4?

There are quite a few differences
CLICK HERE FOR DETAILED INFORMATION in the LH 2.4 section below.


Where should I place the LH 2.2 ECU and EZK ICU in my 240 conversion project?

The best place to mount the control units is where the factory placed them for later 240s. Under the right side dash. If you have access to used parts or salvage yards, the original mounting brackets would be a good thing to get. The LH ECU bracket from any 1985-93 240 will work.  The EZK ICU bracket is found in 1989-93 240s.

If you're pulling an EZK box from a 740, you'll find it located under the steering column just to the right of the brake pedal bracket.

Where can I find the pin-out function diagrams for LH 2.2 and EZK 117 control units?

<<< CLICK THIS IMAGE for PDF document: Pin Function Diagrams specific to THIS CONVERSION HARNESS.

MORE pin function diagrams for K-Jet, LH 2.0, 2.2 and 2.4 systems can be found here: https://www.240turbo.com/volvoharnesses.html#pinfunctions


Would it be possible to use a K-Jet fuel pump relay instead of the LH relay for this conversion?
It's possible. I selected the LH relay for this conversion simply because it's normally used for LH 2.2. To my knowledge, no one has tried a K-Jet relay, but I think it'll work just fine. I would call it experimental until someone tries it. Here's a diagram below that should help explain what can be done.

You'll notice that with a K-Jet relay, activation is done using an ignition tach signal instead of a control signal from the ECU. So one wire is added. The changes to the 6-pole fuel relay plug are shown below.
Please let me know how it works out if you use a method like this.


How do I know if my injectors are low impedance or high impedance?

If you know they are from a non-turbo Volvo 240 or 740, then they are high impedance. Stock 740 Turbo (B230FT) injectors known as "Greentops", are low impedance types. 
You can measure the resistance across the two electrical terminals of the injector. If the resistance is between 1.5 and 4.0 Ohms you have low impedance injectors.  If the resistance is between 8 and 16 Ohms you have high impedance injectors. YouTube Video Here. 
For best results, a set of injectors should be fairly close to each other in an Ohms test.


Great injector info compilation here:
 
forums.turbobricks.com/26083.
Here are some sites that offers reconditioned injectors and they have a large listing of part numbers to search: www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com, http://injector-rehab.com/shop/Flow_Rates
And here is an extensive table listing of Bosch PN's and flow rates: http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm.


How can I find an alternate fuel injector that will work?

So for example, suppose you currently have "Greentops" (stock B230FT injectors, low impedance), something like Volvo/Bosch PN 0-280-150-357. If you instead want a high impedance injector alternative to match for this conversion, I have a few listed below.  Stock "Greentops" have a flow of about 28.6 lbs/hour (300 cc/min).  A comparible high impedance alternate can be:
PN 0-280-150-785
"Orangetops" (29 lbs./hour) from a Volvo 5 cylinder 850 turbo.
PN 0-280-150-737/738 (29 lbs/hour) from an Audi/VW 4 cylinder turbo.
PN 0-280-150-218 (29.7 lbs/hour) from a Buick GN or T Type 6 cylinder Turbo.

WILL AN ALTERNATE FUEL INJECTOR PLUG IN?
<<<
The EFI electrical connector plugs that are used on all original Volvo 240/700/900 harnesses and on THIS harness are known as Bosch EV1 plugs (photo at left). Volvo changed to a later style Bosch EV6 plug in the late 1990's or early 2000's. When searching for INJECTOR PART NUMBERS you should know that part numbers appearing as X-XXX-150-XXX will all use EV1 plugs. EV6 plugs are found on part numbers appearing as X-XXX-155-XXX.  Here's a link to a comparison page of different connector plugs used: https://www.injectorrx.com/bosch-fuel-injectors.

Why would I buy this conversion harnesses when I can find a used 240 or 740 harness for less money and make my own harness? 
ANSWER:
Because 25-30 year old used harnesses have issues like in this photo. Click here to see more in FAQ 6.


PARTS NEEDED:
What other PARTS will I need for a conversion using this LH 2.2 plus EZK harness? 
If you already have an LH 2.2 240 (1985-88 240 non-turbo), then you can use your own parts that you already have, except for the ignition ICU, because the 240 never came with the ignition ICU used in this conversion.
Also you would need a different fuel injection ECU if you will be adding a turbo.  If your 1985-88 240 will remain non-turbo, then the original fuel injection ECU will be fine.
If you have an earlier 240, you'll need to make sure you have the below parts to complete your conversion.
Dave's Volvo Page does not offer the below parts.
If you can help improve or add to this info, please email.

EZK 117 ICU (Ignition Control Unit) or ICM (Ignition Control Module). Choose your EZ 117 K ICU as a turbo or non-turbo type as appropriate for your turbo or non-turbo conversion. 

TURBO:   A Turbo ICU,
PN 0 261 201 012 (photo shown at LEFT) is a known good unit for this conversion using a Turbo engine. Your source for this can be any 1985-89 740 Turbo. This Turbo ICU is VOLVO PN 1346469.
NON-TURBO:  A non-turbo ICU, PN 0 261 201 011, is a known good unit for a non-turbo engine.  Your source for this can be any 1985-88 740 non-turbo.
This non-turbo ICU is VOLVO PN 1336505.

 

If you're pulling an EZK box from a 740, you'll find it located under the steering column just to the right of the brake pedal bracket.
NOTE: Be sure to use an EZK 117 ICU. An EZK 116 ICU (made for LH 2.4) is NOT compatible with LH 2.2.

CLICK HERE for Larger LH and EZK Part Number listings here (Chipping FAQ). Most of the ICUs listed here are EZ 116K (made for LH 2.4 only, so don't mix them up).
And HERE: (EZ-117K and EZ-118K Control Units)


LH 2.2 ECU (Engine Control Unit). AKA: ECM (Engine Control Module).
Choose turbo or non-turbo type as appropriate for your conversion.
0 280 000-511 B230F LH 2.2 1985-88 240/740 non-turbo.
0 280 000-544 B230F LH 2.2 1985-87 240/740 non-turbo.
0 280 000-554 B230F LH 2.2 1988 240/740 non-turbo.
0 280 000-541 B230FT LH 2.2 1987-89 740/760 Turbo, 1989 780 Turbo.
0 280 000-591 B230FT LH 2.2 (unknown Turbo).

Larger LH and EZK Part Number listings here (Chipping FAQ). Most of the ECUs listed here are for LH 2.4 only, so don't mix them up.
LH ECU NOTES:
An ECU from an LH 2.2 EGR car should work on a non-EGR car. The reverse may not be true. 

An LH 2.2 Turbo ECU should work in a non-turbo car, however a non-turbo ECU should NOT be used in a turbo car.

LH ECU Reference Info: http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/ecu.htm


240 Ignition Distributor:  Any LH 2.2 compatible 240 distributor may be used.
Notes:  Not all 240 distributors will work. It needs to be made for an LH 2.2 car (1985-88 240).  This distributor will use the side mounted 3-pin rectangular plug as shown here.
The following distributors have been confirmed to work for LH 2.2:  Part Numbers ending in 001 (1985 240 non-turbo with LH 2.2), and 004 (unknown year 240 with LH 2.2 240, pictured at left). 
BOSCH PN 0237520001, 0237520004

The following distributors will NOT work:
Distributors originally using a WHITE distributor cap, or those with vacuum canisters, which are from 1984 or earlier 240s (with LH 2.0), or 240 Turbos (with a PN ending in 024) or from a later LH 2.4 car (1989-93 240, PN ending in 003). 


Ignition Coil. While there has been very little information published that suggests a specific coil is required for LH 2.2 (with EZ 117K), this information is offered as the standard Volvo specifications that may come in handy.
Coil Specification:
Volvo PN 1336137. Bosch PN 0 221 122 345.

Primary winding.
Resistance measured between Terminals 1 (Neg) and 15 (Pos): 0.6 to 0.9 Ohms

Secondary winding.
Resistance measured between Terminal 1 (Neg) and High-Tension Terminal: 6.5 to 9.0 kOhms.


Bosch MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. Any LH 2.2 MAF will work. It's the same part for TURBO or non-turbo. Bosch PN 0 280 212 007. Found in any 1985-88 240, 1985-88 740 non-turbo or any 1989 740 Turbo. 

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Bosch PN 0280120325, VOLVO PN 1306938, 3517068. Found in any LH 2.2 or LH 2.4 240, 700 or 900.

Idle Air Valve (any LH 2.2 compatible type).
Note:  If converting from a non LH 2.2 system, you’ll need an idle valve compatible with LH 2.2, such as PN 0 280 140 501 (Volvo PN 1317957).  According to opinions in TB forums, this PN ending in 501 seems to be the one to get.  When I researched this conversion years ago there seemed be some opinions that PN 0 280 140 520 would not work (Volvo PN 3517067). . . . SEE '501 or 520' question below.
References:

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/getting_rid_chrysler.html
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=2007663&postcount=16

501 or 520?
This difference between the 501 and 520 here is not understood by me, since according to the IAC reference info posted below, they are interchangeable and the 520 was designated as a replacement by Volvo for the 501.
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/iac_valve.html
https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/lh_22_hall_sensor.html
So if you can offer clarification on this or any LOGICAL reason why a 520 would not work
 or if a 520 is working just fine in your conversion, please email me:
CONTACT



EZK Ignition Powerstage.
  ANY EZ 116 K or EZ 117 K powerstage
(from any LH 2.4 240 or any LH 2.2 or 2.4 700 or 900) is fully compatible for this conversion. 
This one pictured is BOSCH PN 0227100124 or VOLVO PN 3501921.

The normal (factory) mounting location for a powerstage in a 240 is on the left inner fender just forward of the battery. 


<<< Here is the typical place you can find the powerstage in a 740.

Fuel Injection Temp Sensor for LH 2.2, PN 1332396.  This is the typical Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) sensor that any Volvo from 1981 to 1988 with K-Jetronic, LH 2.0, or LH 2.2 will have.
If you're curious about appropriate resistance test measurements for this, here it is (despite having a different PN than an LH 2.4 sensor, the resistance values are identical):
Temp              -    Resistance
-10 C (14 F)    -   8260-10560 Ohms (8.26-10.56 kOhms)
+20 C (68 F)   -   2280-2720 Ohms (2.28-2.72 kOhms)
+80 C (176 F) -   290-364 Ohms (0.290-0.364 kOhms)


Single Wire Coolant Temp Sender PN 460191.  This harness uses a ONE WIRE coolant temp sender (for your dash temperature gauge). This is the type of sender normally found on engines in all 240s.  If you have an engine from a 700/900 model, it will have a 2-pole temp sender.  It must be changed to this 1-pole type.
If you're curious about resistance test measurements for this, here you are:
Temp  -   Resistance
50 C (122 F)    -   282 ohms (0.282 kOhms)
100 C (121 F)   -   60 ohms (0.060 kOhms)
120 C (248 F)   -   40 ohms (0.040 kOhms)



Bosch Knock Sensor. You'll need one as shown here that uses a 2-pole female plug. You cannot use the single spade Chrysler type.
The newer style sensor is VOLVO PN 1367644. It can be found in any LH 2.2 700 or 900 or LH 2.4 240, 700 or 900 or any Regina controlled 700.  Other part numbers: 0261231006, 1326658, 80246023101, 80246023738, 9142415, 94460614500, 95160614100.
If you have an engine from an early 240 with a B21, it will not have originally come with a knock sensor mounting hole. First check the block for the cast-in pad for the knock sensor mounting location. It will be on the intake side at the top between cylinder 3 and 4. Very early B21 blocks (1976 to unknown year) had no mounting pad cast into the block.  Engine blocks began receiving this mounting pad sometime before 1982. If your block has the mounting pad, but it's not yet drilled and tapped, you'll need to drill and tap the engine block with the appropriate thread for the knock sensor. The Bosch knock sensor shown above uses an M8 (M8-1.25) bolt. The drill depth can be up to 0.86 inch, however I have found 0.5 inch deep to be sufficient.

If you have a very early block without the mounting pad, it may be possible to use the location to the left, which was designed for a coolant nipple.  The hole/thread size will be too large, so the hole would need to be reduced/filled or welded and then drilled and tapped for the M8 thread.  It is not known how the change of the mounting position will affect the knock sensor function.
 

Oil Pressure Sender.  This conversion harness will accommodate ANY Volvo red block oil pressure sender, including an early 1-wire, late 1-wire, or 2-pole sender (such as found in a 240 Turbo using an oil pressure gauge).

Fuel Injector Ballast Resistor.  This will be required only if you will be using Low Impedance Fuel Injectors. This harness will accommodate your setup with or without a ballast resistor.

LH 2.2 Fuel System Relay (white Fuel Pump Relay):  PN 3523608.
This is the standard fuel system/fuel pump relay used in all LH 2.2 Volvos.  Using one of these is not required, but this is what you'll use is you want a direct plug and play relay.



These are items below that you might need for your LH conversion.  Many people doing such DIY conversions can find used parts to fill these needs, but if you need new ones, there are some here. 

These optional items are available for purchase in the Harness Parts Page.

Why would you need any optional parts?
Installing this harness in a 1985-88 240 with LH 2.2. 
These are a few items you'll probably need to address for this installation.

--  A Female terminal for a 4-pole 3.5 mm under-dash plug (your car already has this plug), a length of Red/White wire (or whatever color you have, 16-18 gauge will do), and a 6.3 mm (.250") female terminal (insulated or with insulator):  For connection from your 4-pole female plug to a tachometer if needed.

--  6.3 mm (.250") male terminal with insulator, a length of heavy Blue wire (or any color, 12-14 gauge will do), and a 6.3 mm  (.250") female terminal:  For connection from Blue power connection on harness to your fuse panel (for power to coil).
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS WILL HAVE MORE DETAIL.

Installing this harness in a pre-1985 240 or 240 Turbo. 
This installation will need a bit more. 

--  4-pole female 3.5 mm bullet plug housing, four (4) female bullet crimp terminals, lengths of wire in colors: (suggested) Black/Red (16-18 gauge), Red
(16-18 gauge), Red/Yellow (fat, 12-14 gauge), Red/White (16-18 gauge). And three (3) 6.3 mm (.250") female terminals (one with insulator, two without): These will help complete connections from the 4-pole male bullet plug to your fuse panel (and tach if needed).

--  6.3 mm (.250") male terminal with insulator, length of heavy Blue wire (12-14 gauge suggested), and a 6.3 mm  (.250") female terminal (no insulator):  For connecting from the Blue power connection on the harness to your fuse panel.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS WILL HAVE MORE DETAIL.


OPTIONAL PARTS:
Optional Items Available for installing above LH 2.2 EZ117K Conversion Harness

These items are available for purchase in the Harness Parts Page.

<<< 4-pole Male 3.5 mm Bullet Plug Housing:  This plug already comes on the above 3515364-EZK harness.  It's found near the ECU under the dash.  If you need one for other reasons, here it is.  Housing only, no terminals.
LOCATED HERE
<<< Male 3.5 mm bullet crimp terminals for above.  Terminal will fit up to 14 gauge wire comfortably.  It inserts and locks into above male housing.
LOCATED HERE
<<< 4-Pole Female 3.5 mm Bullet Plug Housing and Female crimp terminals:  This Female Housing will mate with the above Male Housing.  If you have an LH 2.2 car, your car will already have one of these under your dash and you might only need some crimp terminals.  For a Turbo or pre-1985 240, you will need one of these to plug into the above Male 4-pole plug on the EZK harness.  LOCATED HERE
<<< 6.3 mm (.250") Female Terminals (available for two wire sizes) and Insulators.  LOCATED HERE

<<< 6.3 mm (.250") Male Terminals and Insulators.
LOCATED HERE
<<< Waterproof Fuse Holder.  This optional fuse holder may be added to a harness purchase to replace the original non-sealed Volvo fuse holder.  It can also be installed by me on a harness at time of purchase if desired.
LOCATED HERE









LH 2.4 plus EZK
Full Conversion Harness

240 - LH 2.4, EZK 116  (2.64 kg)
FULL Conversion Harness

For any year 240 non-turbo or Turbo or +T conversion. Use any Bosch style Fuel Injector. 
This harness is designed to allow the use of a MAF Sensor on EITHER side of the engine bay. It may be placed on the left side for non-turbo or the right side for a turbo.  The MAF wire leads on this harness are designed to be long enough to reach either location (no cutting). 
NEW HARNESS
Made in the Netherlands

 

ONE IN STOCK
If this becomes out of stock, you may still order. Manufacturing lead time will be about 3 - 4 weeks.

Email with questions.  CONTACT ME
Order Quantity:

Select Shipping Option:

Comment:  


Separate Shipping for Harnesses.
Use ONLY if shipping is being added separately.

 
Separate Shipping:
 


View Cart or Check Out
.

LHD harness shown here. A RHD version is also available as a special order.

Volvo 240 LH 2.4 plus EZK full conversion harness.




F U L L   D E S C R I P T I O N
LH 2.4 plus EZ 116 K
FULL CONVERSION ENGINE HARNESS
This is a conversion harness to convert ANY 240 to LH 2.4. It connects to both the engine and ignition points under your hood AND to the engine control modules under your dash. It is designed to use LH 2.4 fuel injection and EZ116K ignition components. An EZK ignition originally came in a 700 series, not in a 240. Volvo put a less desirable Chrysler ignition in the 240 made before 1989. This harness allows you to use the EZK ignition parts.
This is a perfect complement for someone planning to update a K-jet car or install a later turbo or non-turbo Volvo 4 cylinder into an earlier 240.

This conversion harness is designed to be used with LOW or HIGH IMPEDANCE fuel injectors.

1.   For Low Impedance Injectors (AKA: low-Z or peak and hold type): This type was original in the Volvo 700/900 TURBO. This harness has a plug where you can plug in a Ballast Resistor Pack if needed. Any standard Volvo 700/900 type resistor pack will be fine.  This way you may use standard fuel injectors from a 700/900 TURBO or any other low-Z injectors.

2.
For High Impedance Injectors (AKA: high-Z or saturated type):  This type was originally used in Volvo non-turbos, such as your original injectors found in a 240 non-turbo. This harness will work with these injectors as is with the pictured by-pass plug shown at left IN PLACE.  Impedance testing methods for injectors found HERE.





An extensive 16 page INSTRUCTION GUIDE for this harness may be viewed here (1.4 mb pdf):
Updated 04/02/21
https://www.davebarton.com/pdf/HarnessLH2.4EZK.pdf

Also you can find Pin-Out Function Diagrams HERE:

https://www.prancingmoose.com/volvoharnesses.html#pinfunctions

This harness may be used to convert any 240 to LH 2.4 plus EZK ignition, including any early 240 models with K-Jetronic, Turbo or "+T" conversions as well as any other 240 made from 1975 or later. 

This harness is designed to allow the use of a MAF Sensor on EITHER side of the engine bay.
The MAF may be placed on the left side for non-turbo
or the right side for a turbo. 
The MAF wire leads are designed to be long enough to reach either location. 

Everything under the hood is a direct PLUG and PLAY.
There are a few wires under the dash that will need to be connected. That number depends on how old your 240 is, but it can be up to 10 wires.
Complete and detailed instructions are included. 


UNDER-DASH WIRING GUIDE
WIRE
ORIGIN
CONNECTION UNDER DASH
A1. Red/Gray
From LH ECU
This wire brings input to your ECU from the AC relay pin D+/61 or AC control switch (Red/Gray wire).  It allows the ECU to compensate the idle speed when AC is activated.

A2. Green
From LH ECU
This wire brings input to your ECU from the AC compressor. It tells the ECU that your AC compressor is engaged. It’s used to keep the idle speed stable when compressor starts.

B1. Blue
From LH ECU, EZK ICU
This wire gets connected to switched power from ignition switch Terminal 15 (or any 12v circuit "ON" when Ignition Switch in the “RUN” position). This power source may usually be tapped from the back (input) side of fuse 11, 12 or 13 (or fuse 3, 4 or 5 for 1978 and older 240). This circuit may be combined with wire B3 (blue fat).

B2. Red/Yellow (fat)
From Fuel Relay
This is the output from the Fuel Pump Relay to supply power to the fuel pumps.  This wire should be connected at the fuse panel to the INPUT side of the fuse for the in-tank fuel pump or fuel pumps.  You can choose this fuse as follows: 1979 -84: Fuse 5. 1985 and later: Fuse 4. For pre-1979, you can choose any fuse that is not currently being used, such as fuse 10, or install an in-line fuse and then connect to pump. 
Click here for the Fuel Pump Relay Page to see useful 240 Fuel Pump Relay Diagrams.

If you are converting a 240 Turbo or other K-Jet 240 and you're having trouble visualizing how this circuit powers your pumps, I have a more detailed explanation in my 240 Fuel Pump Page HERE: https://www.240turbo.com/fuelpumprelay.html#LH2.2Fuse5

B3. Blue (fat)
From Coil+
This wire gets connected to switched power from ignition switch Terminal 15 (any 12v circuit with Ignition Switch in the “RUN” position). This source may usually be tapped from the back side of fuse 11, 12 or 13 (or fuse 3, 4 or 5 for 1978 and older 240). This circuit may be combined with wire B1 (blue).

B4. Black/Blue
From LH ECU
This wire gets connected to the Speedometer Pulse Output Signal on the back of an electric speedometer, pin 31/6 (in the round plug).  This signal is produced by an LH 2.4 compatible speedometer when it's connected to the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) in the differential.
For questions about workarounds concerning this for EARLIER 240s CLICK HERE.

B5. Violet
From LH ECU
This wire may be connected for the Shift Light if desired for a manual transmission car. It goes to pin 34 of an LH 2.4 compatible instrument cluster.

B6. Pink/White
(2 wires)
From LH ECU, EZK ICU
Check Engine Light (CEL). This wire is connected to pin 235 of an LH 2.4 compatible instrument cluster to provide the circuit for the CEL, if it's desired. 
B7. Pink
From LH ECU
This wire supplies the ECU with momentary power when the starter is engaged.  If used, connect this wire to the starter solenoid circuit. The starter solenoid circuit is the Blue/Yellow wire in the 8-pole firewall plug. It may also be traced to a convenient location under the dash.

B8. Red/White
From Ignition Powerstage
Output to tachometer lead if needed.  If a tach signal is needed for your tach, you may connect this wire to your tach input spade.

If you have questions about what the "back side" or "input side" for the 240 FUSE PANEL looks like,
click here for more information and images of 240 fuse panels in my 240 Fuse Panel Page.

LHD or RHD?: 
This default harness is made for LHD (left hand drive) cars, however a RHD (right hand drive) harness may be made if needed.


QUESTIONS?

What is the difference between LH 2.2 and LH 2.4?

1.
  The timing maps for LH 2.4 (with EZ 116K ignition) are more advanced than LH 2.2 (using EZ 117K ignition).  LH 2.4 (EZ 116K) has a potential ignition timing range from approximately 55
Ί BTDC to approximately 5Ί ATDC.

2.   LH 2.2 (with EZ 117K) allows for a maximum knock controlled retard of 13Ί (for B230F non-turbo EZK) or 9.8
Ί (for B230FT turbo EZK). Retard steps are set at 2.8Ί and re-advance steps are 0.37Ί.
LH 2.4 (with EZ 116K) allows for a maximum knock controlled retard of 14
Ί for both turbo or non-turbo variants.  Retard steps are set at 2.6Ί up to 4895 RPM and 2.3Ί above 4895 RPM. The re-advance steps are 0.375Ί.

3.   For LH 2.2 (with EZ 117K), with certain Turbo models only, factory ignition control units can detect an over-heating condition (12v signal sent from a thermostat switch to EZK ICU pin 9). A safety measure is then applied by advancing the ignition timing 13
Ί when the throttle is closed (at IDLE). This feature is not used for the LH 2.2 EZK conversion harnesses offered in this page.

4.   LH 2.2 (with EZ 117K) (TURBO variants ONLY) offers Knock-Controlled FUEL Enrichment.
When at least 6
Ί of knock retard occurs in all cylinders, fuel is enriched by extending injector opening periods.

5.   LH 2.4 (with EZ 116K) ALL variants also offer Knock-Controlled Fuel Enrichment. 
Fuel is enriched when at least 3
Ί to 4Ί of retard occurs in all cylinders at engine speeds above 3800 RPM and above a certain minimum engine load (regulated by the MAF). 

6.   LH 2.4 will allow for up to 100% fuel injector duty cycle.  LH 2.2 will not reach 100%.

7.   LH 2.4 (with EZ 116K) has built in OBD (On Board Diagnostic. LH 2.2 does not have such a system. The LH 2.4 (with EZ 116K) OBD functions will store fault codes in its memory. Control unit memory can store up to three different fault codes, although the LED on the OBD unit can display up to seven 3-digit fault codes. NOTE: Memory is erased and fault codes are deleted when the battery is disconnected.

8.   LH 2.2 uses a MAF with an external CO adjustment screw for fine tuning. The MAF for LH 2.4 has no external adjustment.

9.   LH 2.2 has a throttle body with an externally adjustable idle speed.  LH 2.4 idle speed is not normally externally adjustable.
 
10. LH 2.2 (with EZ 117K) has externally adjustable ignition timing.  LH 2.4 (with EZ 116K) ignition timing is not externally adjustable.

11. While both LH 2.2 and LH 2.4 will increase idle speed when an AC compressor is engaged, LH 2.4 also offers an idle increase when an automatic transmission selector is moved from 'P' or 'N' to 'R', '1', '2', '3' or 'D'.

12. Both systems use an ignition distributor.
LH 2.2 (with EK 117K) uses a distributor with a Hall sensor to read engine speed and send that signal to the control unit. 
LH 2.4 (with EZ 116K) uses a distributor with no Hall sensor (no internal electrical device at all). This system uses a Crank Position Sensor (CPS) mounted on the back of the engine block above the flywheel (or above the flex-plate for an auto transmission) CLICK HERE for more info.  The CPS reads engine speed and sends that signal to the control unit. A CPS is considered to be more accurate than the earlier distributor Hall sensor. Adding a CPS bracket and compatible flywheel (or flex-plate) is normally required if you're fitting LH 2.4 to an earlier 240 that did not originally have it.
MORE INFO HERE

13. LH 2.4 is designed to receive an input signal from an LH 2.4 compatible electric speedometer (1989-93 240). This signal tells the ECU if the car is moving and helps the fuel system regulate fuel-cut during deceleration (or engine braking) and engine idle (when stopped). This later type LH 2.4 speedometer would normally be receiving an input signal from a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) in the differential. All 1986 and later 240s came with a VSS equipped differential, however two different types of VSS systems were made (non-ABS braking type and ABS type). The early type came in 1986 to 92 240s (without ABS).  The later type came in 1991-92 240s with optional ABS and 1993 240s, which came standard with ABS. More info and photos of these VSS sensors and differentials can be found in the Volvo Rear End Page:
https://www.240turbo.com/volvorearends.html.
There are some WORK-AROUNDS for those installing LH 2.4 into an earlier 240 that does not have the typical VSS signals - CLICK HERE for more info on this.

LH 2.2 has no need or provision to receive a VSS signal, making it a more simple option for an early 240 without a VSS equipped rear differential. 

14. If the car is to be turbocharged and an overboost fuel cut is needed, LH 2.2 uses an external overboost switch, which gets a boost signal from the intake manifold. This ON/OFF switch reads boost pressure in the same manner the 240 Turbo did. The overboost switch will cut power to the fuel pump relay when it reaches its set maximum boost point.
LH 2.4 doesn't use any external overboost switch. LH 2.4 can regulate an overboost fuel cut function using an engine load signal from the MAF sensor. The MAF generates a voltage signal based on air flow. When it reaches a programmed threshold, it will introduce fuel cut protection. The factory threshold is believed to be about 5.1v. with a boost limit of around 12-13 psi. Workarounds are possible for higher boost options. One involves using a diode across two of the MAF terminal wires. Or an option can be switching to a larger (3 inch) MAF from a 960. Plus some LH 2.4 ECUs can be reprogrammed or "chipped" to modify this and other functions. More on chipping below or CLICK HERE. 

15. The parts needed for your 240 will also be different between an LH 2.2 or LH 2.4 conversion, depending on what year or model 240 you have. Here are some examples.
Early 240 or 240 Turbo: Installing an LH 2.2 conversion into an early 240 that originally had mechanical fuel injection (K-Jet) will be less work than installing an LH 2.4 conversion, but either can be done.  LH 2.4 will require a Crank Position Sensor (CPS) on the engine, which is not found on an early 240. LH 2.2 does not use this sensor, so it's not needed for LH 2.2. There is more information about adding a CPS below for an LH 2.4 installation. That can be found HERE. 

Early 240 or 240 Turbo: If you're installing a later engine, which previously used LH 2.4 (B230F 1989 or later. B230FT 1990 or later), it would have come with a Crank Position Sensor and that sensor may be used.

Early 240 or 240 Turbo: LH 2.4 also should have a signal from a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) in the rear differential. Early 240s (before 1986) will not have a VSS. LH 2.2 has no need for a VSS signal, so that makes LH 2.2 a less complicated installation. More information about work-arounds for LH 2.4 and a VSS can be found HERE.

Early 240 or 240 Turbo: If you're using a B21 engine block that did not originally have a drilled hole for a Knock Sensor, that hole will need to be drilled and tapped for any LH 2.2 or LH 2.4 conversion. This hole was done at the factory for all 1983 and later B23F and B23FT blocks and all 1985 and later B230F and B230FT blocks. B21 blocks (B21A, E, F, or FT) did not have this hole drilled and tapped from the factory and very early B21 blocks will not even have a cast-in boss that can be drilled. More information about adding this hole can be found HERE.

Early 240 or 240 Turbo FUEL PUMPS: If you're wondering if you need to change your K-Jetronic fuel pumps to something different, you do not. The original K-Jet in-tank pump and main pump are 100% compatible with an any EFI system installation.  You may want to consider changing to higher capacity pumps if you're increasing power to the point that the stock pumps may not supply enough fuel. Otherwise, no change is required.
 
1985-88 240: A 240 from these years would have come with LH 2.2, so this of course makes installation of an LH 2.2 +EZK conversion pretty simple. Installing an LH 2.4 +EZK conversion in a 1985-88 240 means you will need to add a Crank Position Sensor (CPS) to the engine or use a later engine that has one.
More info can be found HERE. 

More information about PARTS needs for an LH 2.2 installation can be found HERE.
More information about PARTS needs for an LH 2.4 installation can be found HERE.
        
How do I know if my later 240 has LH 2.4 or LH 3.1?
Bosch LH 2.4 (with EK-116K ignition) began being installed in 240s beginning in 1989 and continued through 1993.
Beginning in 1990, some 240s got Bosch LH 3.1 EFI instead. LH 3.1 also came with EZ-116K ignition.
LH 3.1 was only installed in MANUAL TRANSMISSION 240s beginning in 1990 that were sold in USA (except California). LH 3.1 cars did not have EGR.
 
All 1989 and later 240s with MANUAL TRANSMISSION or AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION sold in CALIFORNIA came with LH 2.4 (beginning in 1990 all California 240s also came with EGR). Later years (1993 for sure) got Pulsair as well.
All 1989 and later 240s with AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION sold in USA (except California) and Canada came with LH 2.4. These models came without EGR.
 
There are a few ways to tell if a 240 has LH 2.4 or LH 3.1.  If the car is in front of you, you can look under the hood.  Find the MAF sensor.  If the MAF sensor has a 6-pole connector, then it has LH 2.4.  If the MAF sensor has a smaller 4-pole connector, then it has LH 3.1.  The two styles of MAF sensors look very different.
   

You can also tell by looking at the VIN. 
CODE 88: LH 2.4
<<<
This VIN plate is from a 1993 245 with a manual transmission. It has ENGINE CODE 88, which indicates it was equipped with LH 2.4.
CODE 82: LH 3.1
<<<
This VIN plate is from a 1992 245 with a manual transmission. It has ENGINE CODE 82, which indicates it was equipped with LH 3.1.

Where should I place the LH 2.4 ECU and EZK ICU in my 240 conversion project?
I think the best place to mount the control units is where the factory placed them for later 240s. Under the right side dash. If you have access to used parts or salvage yards, the original mounting brackets would be a good thing to get. The LH ECU bracket from any 1985-93 240 will work.  The EZK ICU bracket is found in 1989-93 240s.

Also, if you're pulling an EZK unit from a 740, you'll find it located under the steering column just to the right of the brake pedal bracket.

Where can I find pin-out function diagrams for LH 2.4 and EZK 116 control units?
<<< CLICK THIS IMAGE for PDF document: This is the Pin Function Diagrams specific to THIS LH 2.4 CONVERSION HARNESS.

MORE Pin Function Diagrams for K-Jet, LH 2.0, 2.2 and 2.4 systems can be found in the HARNESS PAGE here: https://www.prancingmoose.com/volvoharnesses.html#pinfunctions


How can I have my LH 2.4 ECU Chipped?
Having an ECU chipped is optional.  Altering the programming is not required to install LH 2.4 in a 240. 
There are some resources if you want to pursue this. Here's a good place to start
.  CHIPPING FAQ: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=84817
Also there is a source in Sweden here: https://www.stonis-world.com/chipsfrb.html
and here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=355788

Or you can check out how to program your own LH 2.4 ECU using THE OSTRICH EMULATOR.


How do I know if my fuel injectors are low impedance or high impedance?
If you know they are from a non-turbo Volvo 240 or 740, then they are high impedance. Stock 740 Turbo (B230FT) injectors, known as "Greentops", are low impedance types. 
You can measure the resistance across the two electrical terminals of the injector. If the resistance is between 1.5 and 4.0 Ohms you have low impedance injectors.  If the resistance is between 8 and 16 Ohms you have high impedance injectors. YouTube Video Here. 
For best results, a set of injectors should be fairly close to each other in an Ohms test.

Great fuel injector info compilation here:  forums.turbobricks.com/26083.
Here are some sites that offers reconditioned injectors and they have a large listing of part numbers to look at: www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com, http://injector-rehab.com/shop/Flow_Rates

And here is an extensive table listing from Stan Weiss for Bosch (and other) fuel injector PN's with flow rates: http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm.

How can I find an alternate fuel injector that will work?
So for example, suppose you currently have "Greentops" (stock low impedance B230FT injectors, PN 0-280-150-357).  You may use those injectors (or any low impedance injector) for this conversion without any issues as long as you are using a fuel injector ballast resistor.

On the other hand, suppose you want to use a high impedance alternative for this conversion harness. That's also possible with this harness by using the ballast resistor BYPASS PLUG

COMPARABLE ALTERNATIVES:
Checking some fuel injector tables (listed above), you'll find that the stock "Greentops" have a flow of about 28.6 lbs/hour (300 cc/min)
So if you want something close to that, a comparable alternate can be any of these:
PN 0-280-150-785
"Orangetops"  from a Volvo 5 cylinder 850 turbo (29 lbs./hour).
PN 0-280-150-737/738  from an Audi/VW turbo
(29 lbs/hour).
PN 0-280-150-218  from a Buick GN V6 Turbo
(29.7 lbs/hour).
Lots of alternatives can be found.

BOSCH EV1 PLUG:  The EFI electrical connector plugs that are used on all factory Volvo 240/700/900 harnesses and on THIS conversion harness are known as Bosch EV1 plugs (photo at left). Volvo changed to a later style Bosch EV6 plug in the late 1990's or early 2000's.
When searching for fuel injector part numbers you should know that part numbers for fuel injectors appearing as X-XXX-150-XXX will all use Bosch EV1 plugs.
Later style Bosch EV6 plugs are found on part numbers appearing as X-XXX-155-XXX.
Here's a comparison page of different injector connector plugs used: https://www.injectorrx.com/bosch-fuel-injectors.

So why would I buy this conversion harness when I can pull harness parts from a salvaged 240 or 740 for less money and make my own harness? 

SHORT ANSWER: Because 30 plus year old used and heat-soaked harnesses have issues like this pic. Click here to see more in the FAQs.
Do I need to use a
Later Type LH 2.4 Compatible Speedo or Later Instrument Cluster
and a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) in the REAR DIFFERENTIAL?


This section concerns the need (or preference) to connect the B4 Black/Blue wire in the LH 2.4 conversion harness (CLICK HERE to see this wire) to an LH 2.4 compatible speedometer (a speedo with a VSS Pulse Output Signal).  For this VSS signal to be valid, it would mean that the speedo is also connected to a Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) in the rear differential. The speed pulse signal tells the ECU whether the car is moving or not and it informs the fuel module when it should cut fuel during deceleration (engine braking) and how the idle should be maintained when stopping and when stopped. If this speed signal is missing from the ECU, you can probably expect to experience some unstable idle behavior.

This LH 2.4 conversion harness is designed to accept this Speedometer Pulse Output Signal from your car if it has one. The problem is if you have an early 240 made before electronic speedometers were introduced in 1986, then you don't have a rear differential with a VSS. In this case I have begun compiling some choices to solve this below. 

It is NOT required to have a rear differential with a VSS.
OPTIONS TO CONSIDER:
1.
Of course you may install a 1986 or later rear differential and use a later LH 2.4 speedometer. Certainly this is an option, but a LOT of work.
2.
Use a throttle body with a MANUALLY adjustable idle stop and simply DELETE the LH 2.4 idle valve (this will probably cause undesirable idle behavior issues during warm versus cold temperatures).
3.
Use a CABLE SPEEDO that has a CRUISE CONTROL SENSOR on the rear. Connect it to a modified PCB (printed circuit board) from a Volvo electric speedometer. This will generate a valid VSS signal for the ECU. And if an electric speedo PCB become too hard to find, a Microsquirt/Speeduino style VR Conditioner PCB can be substituted. 
This topic is discussed here: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=342812  . . . And ALSO BELOW in more depth.
4.
Use a transmission or driveshaft mounted VSS Pulse Generator from Dakota Digital to provide the needed VSS pulse signal.
Dakota Digital offers a series of 2-wire VSS generators that can be made to work. They have in-line speedometer cable sensors for several different transmission makes or universal magnetic driveshaft sensor that will fit anything.
This link: https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=109/mode=prod/prd109.htm. A 2-wire VSS generator like this is considered to be a VR (variable reluctance) or magnetic sensor. It will also require using a Speedometer Interface Box to translate the final speed signal to the LH 2.4 ECU. Link here: https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1192/category_id=287/mode=prod/prd1192.htm
LH 2.4 was designed to accept a VSS signal with 9800 PPM (pulses per mile), however if you read the below information on the Cruise Control/PCB mod, it will be apparent that LH 2.4 is very forgiving on the PPM signal needed. Universal VSS generators like those here will typically supply 8000 PPM. This number will probably be ok, but may (probably) be converted to a closer number when programming the Interface Box.

5.

Install another brand universal hall effect sensor mounted to read speed pulses from the driveshaft and feed them to an LH 2.4 speedo or speedo PCB.

If you have used any of these methods to generate a VSS signal for an early 240 conversion or if you can help improve this information, please send me an EMAIL.
Thanks, Dave

Here are a list of discussions on this with some decent work-around suggestions:
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=342812
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=229965
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=275547
https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?p=4988923
 https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=230013
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=353616


If you have done this or can help add to this info, please EMAIL ME. I would like to here about it.
 


As mentioned above, here is a WORK-AROUND that can be used to create a suitable VSS signal that can be read by the LH 2.4 ECU.
The below information is derived and expanded from bobxyz's discussion entries in the Turbobricks thread found at http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=342812.

Generating LH 2.4 VSS from Cable Speedometer Cruise Sensor
bobxyz: On LH 2.4 cars, the VR (variable reluctance) sensor on the rear differential feeds a signal to the speedometer. On the speedo is a circuit board, which both drives the speedo needle and generates the VSS signal used by the LH 2.4 ECU.
See http://cleanflametrap.com/speedo.html
. (Image below)



bobxyz: The 3-pin connector above is Ground, +12volts, and VR sensor input. The VSS OUTPUT to the ECU is the outer-most one of the three silver female pin connectors on the RIGHT side of the picture. A close up of those three pin connectors is below.



bobxyz: On cars with early cable-driven speedos, which were equipped with CRUISE CONTROL, there is a VR sensor for the cruise control on the back of the speedo (not present if no cruise control was optioned).
This VR sensor generates a signal that is about half the voltage and half the rate of the normal rear differential VR sensor used on LH 2.4 cars.




bobxyz: I've been curious what would happen if you wired the early speedo cruise VR sensor into a scrap circuit board (PCB) from a later electric speedo (pre-ABS), and then used the VSS output from the circuit board to drive the LH 2.4 ECU. It might work OK, or the voltage might not be enough, or the pulse rate might not be enough. I had the parts to try part of this experiment.

Otherwise, you can use a front wheel ABS hub and sensor with an ABS speedometer circuit board to generate the VSS signal for the ECU, or swap to a later differential with a VR sensor and use the matching speedo circuit board.


bobxyz: The later 240s use an electronic speedometer with a VR sensor in the rear differential. The electronic speedos also supply the VSS vehicle speed signal to the LH 2.4 ECU. It's possible to use the circuit board from an electronic speedo with the cruise control VR sensor on the early cable speedo to generate a VSS signal for the LH 2.4 ECU.

Here's another picture of the circuit board for an electronic speedometer (a 1991 in this case), showing the main 3-pin connector in the main center (bottom) and the 3 single-pin connector sleeves on the right. +12v power comes in through the main connector and goes directly to the leftmost single pin connector. This then needs to be jumpered to the center single pin connector (or you can just wire +12v directly to the center single pin connector).
One side of the above VR sensor (back of the speedo) goes to ground, the other side will be connected to the leftmost pin (labelled VR Sensor) on the below main center 3-pin connector. Polarity of the speedo VR sensor doesn't matter.
The VSS signal OUTPUT to the LH 2.4 ECU is labelled below.
In the center of the circuit board is the stepper motor, which drives the odometer gears. The blue and brown wires at the top of the board go to the speedometer needle galvanometer.



EXPERIMENT TIME:
 
bobxyz: Here are pictures showing a hand drill driving a CABLE speedo, with the cruise control VR sensor output connected to an electronic speedo.
It was noted that the electronic speedo reads ~2.5x low. I didn't know if this would work OK with the LH 2.4 ECU for idle control, or if it needed to have a higher rate. (The electronic speedos use either 12 tooth differential sensors, or 48 tooth sensors in the later ABS 240s).  If this doesn't work, it should be possible to use an ABS front wheel hub sensor (48 tooth) with the speedo circuit board (PCB) from a 240 ABS speedo.




bobxyz: There are 2 screws holding the circuit board to the speedometer, and a couple pairs of wires. I unsoldered them but you could just clip them off. The rotor for the odometer stepper motor just falls out.



bobxyz: By itself, the circuit board draws ~1.4 watts of power. Most of this goes into the odometer stator coils. I think that you'd be fine wiring up the circuit board as shown above and wrapping it in electrical tape. The stator housing does get hot from the power (~115 °F after an hour on the benchtop at 60 MPH).
I went further on mine and removed the stator. Clip the 4 plastic heat stake pins flush and unsolder the 3 winding pins. Without the stator, power draw was only ~0.4 watts. I also had a scrap of big heat shrink tubing but it wasn't quite big enough so I trimmed off the bottom edge connector and wired directly to the circuit board points.








bobxyz: If anyone tries this, please post an update on how the LH2.4 behaves.  Does it have good idle even though the VSS rate is ~2.5x slower than standard? Does the Shift light (if equipped) do anything weird, or does it just not work?



FOLLOW-UP:
bobxyz: I've been running my LH2.4 swapped '85 GLT AW-71 K-Jet for a while now with no weird idle issues. Generating the LH 2.4 VSS signal from the Cable Speedometer Cruise Sensor seems to work just fine.

Here's a picture of the early cluster with the electric speedo VSS PCB hidden in black heat-shrink. A mod was done to use the Lambda Sond Service light as a Check Engine Light (CEL).
Mod Description: The Lambda Service Counter box was removed so the Lamba light in the gauge cluster could be used for a CEL. To do this, you should clip out the diode on the Lambda light so that the light will be illuminated only by the EZK or ECU CEL signal and not by the alternator. With the key in the "ON" position, the EZK/ECU turns on the CEL as a bulb check. Both CEL wires (ECU+EZK) are bridged in the harness, so either one can ground the check engine light to turn it on.


bobxyz: After some side discussions, and more reading (reference to: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=191366) . . . 
 . . . my curiosity won out and I tried unplugging the VSS wire from the LH 2.4.  Then I went for a leisurely 20 minute neighborhood and highway drive. Surprisingly, I didn't notice any idle issues. I checked for codes (OBD hole #2), and there were none (1-1-1). Remember, this is a AW71 automatic, not a manual. If it matters, I'm running a stock '937 ECU and a stock '148 EZK.

Then I went for a slightly more spirited drive (I still have less than 500 miles on the rebuilt engine, so when I say spirited, think granny's a little late to church and may not get her favorite pew spirited). I also clicked off the overdrive when on the highway for a few minutes -- cruise RPMs went up from ~2K to ~3K.  With this, I did notice a high idle that wouldn't go away until the engine was turned off. The idle was ~1000 to ~1100 RPM in Drive, and went up to ~1400 RPM in Neutral. Normally, it idles a bit under 800rpm. This time, I got the expected 3-1-1 diagnostic code due to a missing VSS signal. I was also watching the WBO2 gauge to see if deceleration fuel cut changed at all, but didn't notice anything obvious.

I'm assuming the automatic tranny masks the high idle as compared to a manual tranny, and that you need higher RPMs plus some load to trigger the issue in the first place.

Earlier this week, during our late season snow storm, I put together another VSS board for smoothdurban. It will be interesting to see if it works for him, and if he sees the same issues.





Response: smoothdurban
I am hoping to install the board on Monday.

My engine runs and idles flawlessly without the VSS. Again less then 200 miles on a rebuilt engine so I am not running any long highway runs or 12+ psi of boost. Mine is a MANual!
—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————-
Ok I couldn't wait so I installed it an it definitely has an effect on idle. First off my throttle body has an Idle adjustment screw. Originally I had this screw adjusted such that it was completely closed and without this hack installed it seemed to idle fine in all conditions.

After installing the board provided to my by bob right off the bat the idle was low, almost to the point of stall. I adjusted the idle screw open a few turns and it runs like a champ. By far more adaptive then it was before.

What was the correct procedure to set idle again? Disconnect the IAC and the set base to 500?
Perhaps this is just me but it seems to accelerate a little better too.

Bob, I did verify that the light you sent with my board is flashing and you're instructions were superb!

I cannot check for codes as my code reader has a couple breaks in that jumper wire. Perhaps I can rig something up tomorrow or put in a request for a good used one in the wanted section or borrow the one from my 245!!

Its late here so I haven't had a chance to go to the highway yet but I plan on trying it tomorrow.
—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————-

Just another update.

I got this dialed in and it works flawlessly.
Thanks again Bob for your help. I highly recommend this is the way to go if you want to supply VSS to your ECU.
Cheers! Now make some more!




OPTIONAL CIRCUIT BOARD INSTEAD OF A VOLVO SPEEDOMETER
PCB.
Finding a 30 year old Volvo electric speedometer
so you can scavenge the PCB (printed circuit board) is getting harder and more expensive.  So I have outlined an option below of using a different PCB to translate the VSS signal needed for LH 2.4.
This is a Microsquirt/Speeduino style VR Conditioner Board, originally created for use with Microsquirt fuel injection. It's available for purchase from http://jbperf.com/dual_VR/v2_1.html.
If you purchase one for use as shown here, you should buy the 12V EXTERNAL version.



The diagram below will offer guidance on connecting this board to your speedometer cruise control VR sensor and to the LH 2.4 ECU.  A transistor needs to be added to the PCB output.
When adding devices, such as a transistor, it's advisable to build them on a small piece of circuit perf board, so that wires are more resistant to damage if they get tugged. The board assembly should then be placed in a housing or at least inside heat-shrink tubing for protection. Thank you to Bob (
bobxyz) for his help in this.
 Your feedback or comments are welcome: CONTACT



Here's a source for some other varieties of PCBs and speed converters for converting VR signals to Hall signals.
https://sirhclabs.com/store


If you are interested in learning more about VR (variable reluctance) or Hall Effect sensors, or the difference between them, here you go:
VR Sensor: A variable reluctance sensor is also known as a magnetic sensor.  It will read teeth on a (ferrous) toothed wheel as they pass the sensor head. This sensor will normally have 2 wire leads (signal and ground). It does not require external power (making it a passive sensor). There are some VR sensors with three wire leads. One is the LH 2.4 Crank Position Sensor.  With this sensor there are two VR leads, which are shielded. The third wire is a ground which is attached to the Ignition Control Unit internal ground.
 
Hall Effect Sensor: This sensor will also read teeth on a (ferrous) toothed wheel. This sensor requires power and will have 3 wire leads (power, ground and signal). The power required will generally be between 5 and 24 volts. A Hall effect sensor is more sensitive to electrical interference (EMI) than a VR sensor, so the sensor and signal lead is best kept away from high current devices, such as alternators or heavy power cables. To combat EMI, this signal lead is normally shielded or treated as a twisted pair with the ground lead.
More info: https://fullfunctioneng.com/info/Hall%20vs%20VR.pdf




PARTS NEEDED to Complete a Conversion.
What PARTS will I need for an LH 2.4 plus EZK conversion using this harness? 

If you already have a 240 with LH 2.4 (any 1989-93 240), then you can use your existing parts.
You should also change your fuel injection ECU to a TURBO ECU if you will be doing a TURBO car.

If you have a 1988 or earlier 240, you'll need to acquire the below LH 2.4 specific parts.


NOTE Regarding LH 3.1 and Regina EFI:
 Some late 240s with manual transmissions came with LH 3.1 EFI.
Most LH 3.1 parts are not compatible with this conversion.
And some late 740/940 non-turbo cars came with Regina EFI and Renix ignitions.
Fuel and ignition ECUs from Regina cars are not compatible.



EZ 116K ICU (Ignition Control Unit).
EZ 116K was used in all LH 2.4 equipped 240s and most 700/900 models. 
This one pictured is PN 0 227 400 146.

While it may bot be required, it's recommended that you choose turbo or non-turbo type EZK box as appropriate for your car.

If you're pulling an EZK box from a 740, you'll find it located under the steering column just to the right of the brake pedal bracket.
 
NOTE: Be sure to use an EZ 116K ICU. An earlier EZ 117K ICU (made for LH 2.2 only) is NOT compatible with LH 2.4.
EZ 116K ICU PART NUMBERS
NON-TURBO EZK ICU (Bosch part Numbers)
0 227 400 119 - 740, 940.
0 227 400 140 - 240. EGR.
0 227 400 146 - 240.
0 227 400 147 - Gold, silver or bronze color. Chippable. 740 16V B234F/G.
0 227 400 152 - 740, 940.
0 227 400 169 - 240.
0 227 400 209 - Gold, silver or bronze color. Chippable. 240. EGR.
 
NON-TURBO EZK ICU (Volvo Part Numbers)
3501688 (B230F designated California).
3517402 (B230F designated USA, Fed.)
1367178 (B204E)
3517608 (B234F)

Larger LH and EZK Part Number listings here (Chipping FAQ).

TURBO EZK ICU (Bosch Part Numbers)
0 227 400 117 - 940 Turbo
0 227 400 148 - 940 Turbo (1998 B230FT)
0 227 400 149 - 740, 760, 780 Turbo. EGR.
0 227 400 159 - 740, 760, 940, 960 - 16V Turbo B204FT/GT
0 227 400 207 - Gold, silver or bronze color. Chippable. 940 95-96 automatic, EGR some models.
0 227 400 208 - Gold, silver or bronze color. Chippable. 740, 760, 940, 960 - 16V Turbo B204FT/GT
0 227 400 214 - 760, 940 Turbo 1992-93, EGR.
0 227 400 219 - Gold, silver or bronze color. Chippable. 940 95-96 manual, EGR.

Larger LH and EZK Part Number listings here (Chipping FAQ).


LH 2.4 ECU (it is recommended to choose turbo or non-turbo as appropriate).

TURBO NOTE:
A Turbo LH 2.4 ECU will work in a non-turbo car, however a NON-TURBO LH 2.4 ECU should NOT be used in a TURBO car.

This ECU pictured is PN 0 280 000 951 from a 1989 740 GLE (non-turbo).

EGR NOTE: An ECU from an LH 2.4 EGR car will work on a non-EGR car. The reverse may not be true.  
Reference: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=364479&postcount=6


More info on the subject of matching an ECU to an appropriate EZK box:
https://www.forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=234705
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?p=364479
https://www.forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=295363
LH 2.4 Fuel ECU PART NUMBERS
Larger LH and EZK Part Number listings here (Chipping FAQ).
LH 2.4 NON-TURBO FUEL ECU (Bosch Part Numbers)
0 280 000 549 - 740, 940 16V B234F/G.
0 280 000 556 - 240 1989 EGR, 740 1989-90 EGR, B230FD. Suitable substitute: -937, -967, -954.
0 280 000 561 - 240 or 740, B230F.  -561 with PINK label is problematic. White label is preferred. Suitable substitute: -933, -935, -951.
0 280 000 562 - 740, 940 1991 B234F, EGR. Suitable substitute: -928.
0 280 000 571 - 740, 940 16V B234F/G. Suitable substitute: -928.
0 280 000 572 - 240, 740 B230F 1990-92.
0 280 000 590 - 740.
0 280 000 594 - 740.
0 280 000 911 - 740, 940 16V B234F/G.
0 280 000 928 - 740, 940 1991-92 16V B234F/G.
0 280 000 933 - 240. No cold start injector.
0 280 000 934 - 940.
0 280 000 935 - 940.
0 280 000 936 - 940.
0 280 000 943 - 240 EGR, 940 1993-94 B230FD. Suitable substitute: -946.
0 280 000 946 - 240 EGR, 940.
0 280 000 949 - 940.
0 280 000 951 - 240 1993, 740. No cold start injector.

0 986 261 104 - 740 (reconditioned).
0 986 261 738 - 740, 940 16V B234F/G (reconditioned).
0 986 261 746 - 740, 940 16V B234F/G (reconditioned). EGR
0 986 261 751 - 740, 940 16V B234F/G (reconditioned).
0 986 261 758 - 740 (reconditioned).
0 986 261 760 - 740 (reconditioned).
0 986 261 805 - 740, 940 16V B234F/G (reconditioned).
0 986 261 807 - 740, 940 16V B234F/G (reconditioned).
0 986 261 811 - 740, 940 (reconditioned).
0 986 261 812 - 940 (reconditioned).
0 986 261 817 - 740 (reconditioned).

0 986 262 700 - 740, 940 16V B234F/G (reconditioned).
0 986 262 704 - 940 (reconditioned).
0 986 262 712 - 940 (reconditioned).
0 986 262 713 - 740 (reconditioned).

Larger LH and EZK Part Number listings here (Chipping FAQ).
LH 2.4 TURBO ECU
(Bosch Part Numbers)
0 280 000 560 - 760 Turbo B230FT 1990-91 with EGR. Suitable substitute: -563.
0 280 000 563 - 760 Turbo B230FT 1989-92.
0 280 000 578 - 740, 760, 940, 960 16V Turbo B204FT/GT.
0 280 000 596 - 940 Turbo.
0 280 000 597 - 740, 760, 940, 960 16V Turbo B204FT/GT.
0 280 000 926 - 740, 760, 940, 960 16V Turbo B204FT/GT.
0 280 000 932 - 940 Turbo.
0 280 000 937 - 940 Turbo 1991-92 B230FT.
0 280 000 939 - 940 Turbo. B230FT EGR
0 280 000 950 - 740, 760, 940, 960 16V Turbo B204FT/GT.
0 280 000 954 - 940 Turbo 1995 B230FT/FK.
0 280 000 962 - 940 Turbo 1994 B230FT.
0 280 000 967 - 940 Turbo 1993-94.
0 280 000 975 - 940 Turbo 1995 B230FT/FK.
0 280 000 976 - 940 Turbo 1996 B230FT/FK.
0 280 000 977 - 940 Turbo 1996 B230FT/FK.
NOTE: This 977 ECU is known as an "immobiliser" ECU. It normally requires the correct matching key to start the car. You will have difficulty otherwise. This ECU can work if the chip is replaced with an aftermarket tuned chip.
0 280 000 979 - 940 Turbo.
0 280 000 980 - 940 Turbo.
NOTE: This 980 ECU is known as an "immobiliser" ECU. It normally requires the correct matching key to start the car. You will have difficulty otherwise. This ECU can work if the chip is replaced with an aftermarket tuned chip.
0 280 000 981 - 940 Turbo.
NOTE: This 981 ECU is known as an "immobiliser" ECU. It normally requires the correct matching key to start the car. You will have difficulty otherwise. This ECU can work if the chip is replaced with an aftermarket tuned chip.
0 280 000 983 - 940 Turbo.
0 280 000 984 - 940 Turbo 1997-98 (EU only). Highly desirable ECU.
NOTE: This 984 ECU is known as an "immobiliser" ECU. It normally requires the correct matching key to start the car. You will have difficulty otherwise. This ECU can work if the chip is replaced with an aftermarket tuned chip.

0 986 261 744 - 760 Turbo (reconditioned). EGR.
0 986 261 754 - 740, 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 261 762 - 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 261 763 - 740, 760, 940, 960 16V Turbo B204FT/GT (reconditioned).
0 986 261 809 - 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 261 813 - 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 261 814 - 940 Turbo (reconditioned).

0 986 262 702 - 740, 760, 940, 960 16V Turbo B204FT/GT (reconditioned).
0 986 262 705 - 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 262 706 - 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 262 707 - 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 262 708 - 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 262 709 - 940 Turbo (reconditioned).
0 986 262 711 - 740, 760, 940, 960 16V Turbo B204FT/GT (reconditioned).


240 Distributor (any LH 2.4 compatible type from a 1989-93 240). Compatible Part Numbers: BOSCH 0237523003.


Additionally it's possible to use a distributor from an LH 2.2 240 if you simply remove the Hall generator. This is considered to be a "gutted" distributor: 
BOSCH PN 0237520001,
0237520004
 

Ignition Coil. While there has been very little information published that suggests a specific coil is required for LH 2.4 (with EZ 116K), this information is offered as the standard Volvo specifications that may come in handy.
Coil Specification:
Volvo PN 9438228 (1317810, 1317815). Bosch PN 0 221 122 334.

Primary winding.
Resistance measured between Terminals 1 (Neg) and 15 (Pos): 0.6 to 0.9 Ohms

Secondary winding.
Resistance measured between Terminal 1 (Neg) and High-Tension Terminal: 6.5 to 9.0 kOhms.


Bosch MAF sensor (AMM). LH 2.4 uses BOSCH PN 0280212016, which will be compatible for turbo or non-turbo.  This MAF is found on any 1989 and later 240 (with LH 2.4) or any 1990 and later 740 Turbo or any 1989 or later 740/940 non-turbo (with LH 2.4 of course).


Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). BOSCH PN 0280120325, VOLVO PN 1306938, 3517068. Found in any LH 2.2 or LH 2.4 240, 700 or 900.

Idle Air Valve (any LH 2.4 compatible). 
This one pictured is BOSCH PN 0280140516 from any 1989-93 240 (with LH 2.4) or any 1989 and later 740 Turbo or and 1990 and later 740/940 non-turbo (with LH 2.4 of course). 

NOTE: Many late 240s with manual transmissions were equipped with LH 3.1.
Some late 740/940 non-turbo cars came with Regina EFI.


EZK Ignition Powerstage.
  ANY EZ 116 K or EZ 117 K powerstage
(from any LH 2.4 240 or any LH 2.2 or 2.4 700 or 900) is fully compatible for this conversion. 
This one pictured is BOSCH PN 0227100124 or VOLVO PN 3501921.

The normal (factory) mounting location for a powerstage in a 240 is on the left inner fender just forward of the battery. 
<<< Here is the typical place you can find the powerstage in a 740.

Fuel Injection Temp Sensor for LH 2.4, PN 1346030.  This is the typical Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) sensor that any Volvo LH 2.4 equipped car will use (or Regina equipped car).
If you're curious about appropriate resistance test measurements for this, here you are (despite having a different PN than LH 2.2, the resistance values are identical):
Temp              -    Resistance
-10 C (14 F)    -   8260-10560 Ohms (8.26-10.56 kOhms)
+20 C (68 F)   -   2280-2720 Ohms (2.28-2.72 kOhms)
+80 C (176 F) -   290-364 Ohms (0.290-0.364 kOhms)

Single Wire Coolant Temp Sender VOLVO PN 460191.  This harness uses a ONE WIRE coolant temp sender (for your dash temperature gauge). This is the sender normally found on engines in 240s.  If you have an engine from a 700/900 model, it will have a 2-pole temp sender.  It must be changed to this 1-pole type.
If you're curious about resistance test measurements for this, here you are:
Temp               -   Resistance
50 C (122 F)    -   282 ohms (0.282 kOhms)
100 C (121 F)   -   60 ohms (0.060 kOhms)
120 C (248 F)   -   40 ohms (0.040 kOhms)


Bosch Knock Sensor. You'll need one as shown here that uses a 2-pole female plug. You cannot use the single spade Chrysler type.
The newer style is VOLVO PN 1367644. It can be found in any LH 2.2 700 or 900 or LH 2.4 240, 700 or 900 or any Regina controlled 700.  Other part numbers: 0261231006, 1326658, 80246023101, 80246023738, 9142415, 94460614500, 95160614100.

If you have an engine from an early 240 with a B21, first check the block for the cast-in pad for the knock sensor mounting location. It will be on the intake side at the top between cylinder 3 and 4. Very early B21 blocks (1976 to unknown) had no mounting position cast into the block.  Engine blocks began receiving this mounting pad sometime before 1982. If your block has the mounting pad, but it's not yet drilled and tapped, you'll need to drill and tap the engine block with the appropriate thread for the knock sensor. The Bosch knock sensor shown above uses an M8 (M8-1.25) bolt. The drill depth can be up to 0.86 inch, however I have found 0.5 inch deep to be sufficient. 

If you have a very early block without the mounting pad, it may be possible to use the location to the left, which was designed for a coolant nipple.  The hole/thread size will be too large, so the hole would need to be reduced/filled or welded and then drilled and tapped for the M8 thread.  It is not known how the change of the mounting position will affect the knock sensor function.
 

Oil Pressure Sender.  This harness will accomodate ANY redblock oil pressure sender, including an early 1-wire, late 1-wire, or 2-pole sender (such as found in a 240 Turbo).

Fuel Injector Ballast Resistor.  This will be required only if you will be using Low Impedance Fuel Injectors.

LH 2.4 Fuel System Relay (white Fuel Pump Relay):  VOLVO PN 3523608.
This is the standard fuel system/fuel pump relay used in all LH 2.4 Volvos up to about 1993.  Using one of these is not required, but this is what you'll use is you want a direct plug and play relay.

 LH 2.4 Compatible Flywheel or Flexplate and Crank Position Sensor (CPS).  LH 2.4 requires the use of a CPS.
CPS VOLVO PN 271949, 3547847, 1389399. This conversion harness is design to directly use this sensor. Normally, this means you must have an LH 2.4 type flywheel (if using a manual transmission), or an flexplate (if using an automatic transmission).  The top-rear of your engine (where the transmission bell housing is mounted) should also accept a Crank Position Sensor bracket or it should be modified to do so if not already equipped (modification info below).



LH 2.4/EZK uses a CRANK POSITION SENSOR (CPS). If you have an engine that did not originally use a Crank Position Sensor above the flywheel, here is some information you can use if you need to add it to your engine block. The original CPS mounting bracket is Volvo PN 3507510 and it is reportedly NLA as a new part from Volvo. It can be found as a used part.  
Update: Dec 2020: There seems to be a source here for now: https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/electrics/sender-units-sensors/bracket-sensor-crankshaft-pulse/1039189/

MODIFICATION: The CPS bracket is mounted using M6 (M6-1.0) bolts, so if your engine black does not have the hole, you will need to drill and tap them.
POSITION: The holes should be centered between the top transmission mounting holes, 1.575 inch (40 mm) apart. Depth may be up to ~0.9 inch (about 23 mm). 
 
 
Here's a nice 240 build thread post with photos where the owner drilled and tapped his B21FT block for a CPS bracket: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=5631964&postcount=196
And here's the complete build thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=318066

Here's more info about converting an earlier B21 block and bell housing for use with a CPS here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=230687


What if you want to use a
custom Trigger Wheel and Crank Sensor mounted somewhere else?

I've had a few discussions with some people with early 240s who would rather NOT have to install an LH 2.4/EZK compatible flywheel or flexplate or maybe their block and bell housing is not compatible. They wanted to know if they could use a trigger wheel mounted on the front and a CPS (Volvo or aftermarket) mounted to a custom bracket. Research certainly finds it has been done. The specific parts is still somewhat a mystery though.  It seems only a few people who have done this are interested in sharing details so far. So finding real solutions is hard work.
So . . . Here's some info below I've been compiling.  I can't say I have the answers yet. If you can help with more specific info, please EMAIL.

First, some basics.
Here's a Volvo (Bougicord) CPS and an LH 2.4/EZK auto trans flexplate. I got this from this discussion:
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=292156. An LH 2.4/EZK manual trans flywheel is also shown below.
This reluctor ring design is described by Volvo as a 60/1 toothed profile (also referred to as 60-2 profile by most people). It can be confusing, but the use of a slash "/" creates a different meaning than a minus symbol "-".  In simple terms, a 60/1 (slash) profile is a 60 tooth ring with one section that is different. A 60-2 (dash) profile puts emphasis on the "2" and means the different section is 2 teeth long.
Since Volvo used HOLES (not literal teeth), it means there are 58 open holes and 2 closed holes (the gap below is closed).
So I'll call this a closed gap. A Volvo sensor is said to strictly prefer a closed gap as shown here. It needs to sense solid steel for that 2-tooth gap, not an opening as you'll see below.
Also since the CPS uses a magnet, the reluctor ring always needs to be STEEL.


Some reluctor rings like this one below will have an open area where that gap is (let's call this an open gap). This type is common in later Volvos using Motronic fuel injection. There are some differing opinions on whether you can use one like this with LH 2.4/EZK. Some say YES (with some mods), some say NO. Some who claim it CAN work with this type of reluctor will suggest that you can reverse the sensor leads on the CPS. This lead reversal
will alter the timing reference sent to the ECU by 3 degrees, although which direction is not certain (Source: Volvo Greenbook TP31397 EZK Ignitions, pg 23). You will see some of these references in the discussions posted below.
 


Refering to the below illustration of a Volvo reluctor ring, the first hole after the long closed tooth serves as a reference point for the ECU to understand the crankshaft position each time it passes. That reference point is not TDC. TDC for Cylinder 1 is the point 90 degrees AFTER that reference point. 



So while staying consistent with the Volvo design, when counting "teeth" on a flywheel, reluctor ring or trigger wheel for use with LH 2.4/EZK, it will will be better to count the HOLES (or recesses).
This is easy to understand when looking at one of the above factory flywheel images, but if you see a ring with TEETH, remember to just count the recesses, not the raised teeth.
This photo below is a custom "60-2" LH 2.4/EZK flywheel for Volvo red block from STS Machining in Oregon. It has the correct 58 recesses and a gap with 2 recesses closed (the closed gap). This means that long tooth is 3 teeth wide (if you're counting raised teeth), but the I think a correct way to classify it is to say it's the width of 2 recesses.



So let's move to a discussion of a non-factory trigger wheel.
From what I have found, very few people have tried using LH 2.4 and EZ 116K with a non-factory flywheel trigger. If you have done something different or can contribute to this information, please email me.

The trigger wheel at below left is a "60-2" that the writer (lookforjoe) of the below discussion bought for his LH 2.4/EZK conversion. It would not work as is. The trigger wheel on the right is the same wheel, which has been modified. He converted the OPEN GAP to a CLOSED GAP by filling in the opening (using steel filler rod) and grinding one more small recess to get the correct number of 58 recesses. So the final result is a solid gap, which is wide enough to hold 2 recesses. If this is confusing, think of it this way: If you're counting raised teeth, the solid gap is 3 teeth wide.
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/lh2-4-conversion.29828/

I have read of recommendations for a trigger wheel to be thicker than most available 1/8 inch thick wheels. A thicker wheel will provide a stronger signal for an LH 2.4 style sensor (which is a Variable Reluctance Sensor, which needs to read ferrous gaps in the steel wheel). So a good minimum thickness is recommended as 5 mm. 1/4 inch (6.3 mm) is close to that and would work well. Such a trigger wheel, if available, will probably be custom and may set you back $100. 



A bracket of some type will be needed to mount a CPS.  It should be rigid and have some capability to adjust the CPS position. lookforjoe set his with a 1 mm air gap.


This sheet metal bracket below can be found at KL Racing in Sweden: https://shop.klracing.se/sv/artiklar/givarfaste-2-motorblock-volvo-b230.html or RetroTurbo in the UK at http://www.retroturbo.com/?product=volvo-b21-b23-b200-b230-trigger-wheel-kit. Or if you're able, you can fabricate a bracket. 


Try to place the CPS so it's less likely to be interfered with when changing belts, etc.

My preference would be a bracket under the pan like this, although this one seems it might be little overbuilt. Nothing wrong with that.
The sensor in this photo is Ford PC19, which is a VR sensor like the Volvo Bougicord CPS used for LH, except the Ford sensor provides a stronger signal (See Ref:
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=306095).
NOTE: LH 2.4 is not being used with the sensor in this photo below.


If you can help or add to this info, please email.


RELEVANT DISCUSSIONS
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=292156
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=253353
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=216307
https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=306095
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/lh2-4-conversion.29828/.
 


On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) Unit. VOLVO PN 1398703. This box is found in any LH 2.4 or Regina EFI equipped 240, 700 or 900 model.


OPTIONAL ITEMS TO THINK ABOUT
This is an Ostrich 2.0 Emulator. It can be found at: http://www.moates.net/. This device gives you the ability to DIY tune your LH 2.4 ECU.

<<< This pic: Here's one mounted on an LH 2.4 ECU being used with the conversion harness offer here. It's being used on a B230FT.  This customer is using this device to allow him to create live tuning for his LH 2.4 system. He uses TunerPro RT on a laptop to emulate a tune to the Ostrich. The Ostrich has a lead to a chip that replaces the stock chip in your LH 2.4 ECU. After completing your tune, you then emulate it one last time and then disconnect the laptop. 

Comprehensive installation info for the OSTRICH: http://ipdown.net/jetronic.info/tiki-index.php?page=Ostrich+Install

More info can be found at: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=227153 (thread with some broken images).



These are a few connectors you might need for your LH conversion.  Many people doing such DIY conversions can find parts like this to fill these needs. If you need some, I offer them. 

These optional items are available for purchase in the Harness Parts Page.
Optional Items Available for helping to install above LH 2.4 EZ116K Conversion Harness

These items are available for purchase in the Harness Parts Page.

6.3 mm (.250") MALE terminal insert.
10 of these will be needed for the 2-pole Male Plug and 8-pole Male Plug needed to connect to this harness.  LOCATED HERE

2-Pole Plug Housing for above 6.3 mm (.250") MALE terminal.
One of these will be needed to match the 2-pole Female Plug on this harness.
LOCATED HERE
8-Pole Plug Housing for above 6.3 mm (.250") MALE terminal.
One of these will be needed to match the 8-pole Female Plug on this harness.
LOCATED HERE
<<< 6.3 mm (.250") Female Terminals (available for two wire sizes) and Insulators. 
LOCATED HERE
<<< Waterproof Fuse Holder.  This optional fuse holder may be added to a harness purchase to replace the original non-sealed Volvo fuse holder.  It can also be installed by me on your harness at time of purchase if desired.
LOCATED HERE







Conversion Harnesses to Add EZK Ignition only
to an existing LH 2.2 240 (1985-1988)


240 EZK 117 IGNITION Conversion Harness
(For converting your old Ignition to EZK)
VERSION #1 or #2
Designed for any existing LH 2.2 240 (1985-88). 
This harness allows you to completely eliminate your old Chrysler ignition system and instead add this small harness to retrofit the EZK 117 ignition system.
NEW HARNESS
Made in the Netherlands
Email with any questions.  CONTACT ME

Your choice:
 TWO versions of this harness are offered.

VERSION 1:
The Ignition Powerstage is placed in the front left corner of the 240 engine bay (same as the original Volvo factory location).
VERSION 2:
The Ignition Powerstage is placed UNDER THE DASH. It may be mounted on the firewall or side panel. This type of installation has been done many times and there have been no issues with these ignition amplifiers generating unacceptable heat. 
Version #1 shown below.
Volvo 240 EZK ignition conversion wire harness.
Version #2 shown below.
Volvo 240 EZK ignition conversion wire                                            harness.


240 EZ 117K
NEW IGNITION CONVERSION HARNESS


Price: $159.00 plus shipping
Version 1 ORDER HERE

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If this becomes out of stock, you may still order. Manufacturing lead time will be about 3 - 4 weeks.
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Price: $159.00 plus shipping
Version 2 ORDER HERE

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If this becomes out of stock, you may still order. Manufacturing lead time will be about 3 - 4 weeks.
EZK Version 2 Order Quantity:

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F U L L   D E S C R I P T I O N   B E L O W
Volvo 240 ignition control unit (ICU).  This is a conversion harness for any existing 240 using LH 2.2 (1985 to 88) or any car using the engine harness for this 240.  These 240s originally came with an undesirable Chrysler ignition system with the fender mounted Ignition Control Unit (photo to the left). This conversion harness is designed to allow you to instead use the more desirable EZ 117 K ignition system.  The EZ 117 K ignition system came in the 740 series during the same years. Your existing main engine harness is not disturbed for this conversion, except for some wires to be spliced under the dash near the ECU.  All new connections under the hood are PLUG AND PLAY. This conversion harness is designed to work with your existing LH 2.2 system and it serves to bridge the necessary connections to the newer EZ 117 K ignition system.  Your new EZK ignition box should be mounted under the dash near the LH ECU.

When installing this conversion, you may completely unplug and remove all of your old Chrysler ignition harness and ignition control unit.
This harness comes with a complete set of color diagrams illustrating each circuit and each connector in detail. 
These diagrams will guide you though the proper location of each connector.


There are up to 6 wires in this new harness that will be spliced into wires in your existing under dash harness near your existing EFI Control Unit.
OVERVIEW OF TYPICAL UNDER-DASH WIRE CONNECTIONS FOR THIS CONVERSION:

Red/White: (Ign Powerstage)  If a tach signal is needed for your tach, extend and connect this wire to the tachometer signal input.  

Blue: (Coil +) Power lead for the coil and power stage. Extend this wire to the fuse panel to provide 12v when the ignition switch is in the “Run” position.  

Black/Red: (ICU) To be spliced into the LH ECU Blue/White wire coming from ECU pin 12. This wire should ONLY be connected if a TURBO fuel injection ECU is being used.  This circuit provides fuel enrichment when knock is detected.  

Gray/Yellow: (ICU)  To be spliced into the LH ECU Gray wire from ECU pin 1.

Orange: (ICU)  To be spliced into the LH ECU Orange wire from ECU pin 3.

Yellow: (ICU)  To be spliced into the LH ECU Yellow wire from ECU pin 24.

For more information and images of 240 fuse panels, you can have a look at my 240 Fuse Panel Page.


What parts will I need for a conversion using this harness?
 
If you already have an LH 2.2 240 ('85-'88), then nothing changes with the fuel system. You'll need some EZK compatible Ignition parts below.
If you can help improve or add to this info, please email.
EZK 117 ICU (Ignition Control Unit) or ICM (Ignition Control Module). Choose your EZ 117 K ICU as a turbo or non-turbo type as appropriate for your turbo or non-turbo conversion. 
<<< This one pictured is PN 0 261 201 012, which is an EZ 117 K ICU from a 1985-89 740 Turbo. The VOLVO Part Number is 1336505.
 
A Turbo ICU with PN ending in 012 is a known good unit for this conversion using a Turbo engine.
Your source for this can be any 1985-89 740 Turbo.

A non-turbo ICU (PN 0 261 201 011) is a known good non-turbo ignition box. The VOLVO Part Number is 1346469.  Your source for this can be any 1985-88 740 non-turbo

Be sure to use an EZK 117 ICU. An EZK 116 ICU (made for LH 2.4) is NOT compatible with LH 2.2.

CLICK HERE for Larger LH and EZK Part Number listings here (Chipping FAQ). Most of the ICUs listed here are EZ 116K (made for LH 2.4 only, so don't mix them up).
And HERE: (EZ-117K and EZ-118K Control Units)

  240 Distributor: Your existing distributor is used if you have a 1985-88 240 non-turbo.
Note: If you need to shop for a distributor, you should read this. Not all 240 distributors will work.  An LH 2.2 type will have the side mounted 3-pin rectangular plug as shown here. So get that one.
The following LH 2.2 compatible distributors have been confirmed to work:  Part Numbers ending in 001 (1985 240 non-turbo with LH 2.2), and 004 (unknown year 240 with LH 2.2 240, pictured at left). 
Confirmed: BOSCH PN 0237520001, 0237520004

The following distributors will NOT WORK:
Distributors originally using a WHITE distributor cap, or those with vacuum canisters, which are from 1984 or earlier 240s (with LH 2.0), or 240 Turbos (with a PN ending in 024). Also any distributor from a later LH 2.4 240 is NOT compatible (1989-93 240, PN ending in 003). 

Ignition Coil. While there has been very little information published that suggests a specific coil is required for LH 2.2 (with EZ 117K), this information is offered as the standard Volvo specifications that may come in handy.
Coil Specification:
Volvo PN 1336137. Bosch PN 0 221 122 345.

Primary winding.
Resistance measured between Terminals 1 (Neg) and 15 (Pos): 0.6 to 0.9 Ohms

Secondary winding.
Resistance measured between Terminal 1 (Neg) and High-Tension Terminal: 6.5 to 9.0 kOhms.


EZK Ignition Powerstage.
  ANY powerstage for EZ 116 K or EZ 117 K
(from any LH 2.2 or LH 2.4 240, 700 or 900). All are fully compatible for this conversion. 
This one pictured is BOSCH PN 0227100124 or VOLVO PN 3501921.

The normal (factory) mounting location for an ignition powerstage in a 240 is on the left inner fender just forward of the battery. 

Bosch Knock Sensor. You'll need one as shown here that uses a 2-pole female plug. You CANNOT use the single spade Chrysler type that came on 240s with the Chrysler ignition.
The newer style Bosch sensor is VOLVO PN 1367644. It can be found in any LH 2.2 700 or 900 or LH 2.4 240, 700 or 900 or any Regina controlled 700. 
Other Bosch part numbers: 0261231006, 1326658, 80246023101, 80246023738, 9142415, 94460614500, 95160614100.







740 MAF Relocation Conversions


740
MAF Conversion / Relocation Harness.
If you are converting your non-turbo 740 to a +T, you may move your MAF from the non-turbo side to the turbo side
100% plug-in harness. No cutting or splicing. You just need to move some terminals from one connector to another.
This one fits 1990-91 Volvo 740 non-turbo (with LH 2.4)
(Other years are possible. Please email)

NEW HARNESS
Made in the Netherlands

Not currently in stock.
Available to Order
Manufacturing lead time is about 3-4 weeks.
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Full instructions for installation included.
So far I have only developed this conversion for the 1990 and 1991 740 non-turbo with LH 2.4. 
If you have questions or you're interested in something like this for a different year/model, email me. CONTACT

 
bos14e


 
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