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     UPDATED: March 13, 2024    CONTACT    SHIPPING
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EXTERNAL Adjustable Regulator Full Kits
External Adjustable (Regulator Only)
INTERNAL Adjustable Regulators
Internal NON-Adjustable (14.8v) Regulators

Failures to Charge - Troubleshooting Flashing the Field
Brush Replacement
Marine Applications

Adjustable Voltage Regulators
for Bosch type Alternators.
For any Bosch (or Bosch type) External Fan Alternator.
The parts here may fit many other Bosch Alternators for Volvo, VW, Audi, Alfa Romeo, BMW, Porsche and more.

These regulators are made specifically for Bosch External Fan Alternators. 
Here are some photos of typical Bosch External Fan Alternators, which these voltage regulators fit.

If you have a question about an alternator that DOES NOT look like these, please feel free to email.

The one of the left in all these photos is a 55 amp unit. The one on the right in each photo is a 100 amp type.  

The parts in this page WILL NEVER fit this type of INTERNAL FAN alternator below:

A Few Customer Comments:
"I finally have appropriate alternator output voltage.  My car has never had enough voltage from its charging system.  I installed your regulator, and was thrilled by the results.  My Autronic SM2 engine management system is much happier.  It idles noticeably better now, and I expect longer battery life as well.   Thank you for an excellent product.  Thank you for your fast service."  
R.L., 1984 BMW 633 CSi/Dinan turbo/SM2

"Installed both regulators.  First thing I noticed was that both cockpit voltmeters were off by about a volt or more.  Knowing the voltage at the battery terminals is a great relief.  Both regulators tuned to 14.5 volts and seem to working GREAT.  Thanks for making these fabulous products available."  '79 BMW R100RS motorcycle and '84 BMW 663CSi,  J.M., Jacksonville, FL.

"I wish I would have found this adjustable voltage regulator when I first got my 142 three years ago...It is awesome!!!  I guess I didn't know how bad I needed it until I fried another alternator!!!   Your site is on my favorites now, thanks for the good communication and quick shipping!!!  Volvo 142, C.B., Denver, CO.

"Just a quick note on how impressed I was with the external voltage regulator I installed on my 1987 Porsche 944 (non-turbo)..Super easy to install and the results are awesome..I was only getting about 13.4 volts out of the old BOSCH internal regulator and now am getting a constant 14.4 without any electric things running, and when I turned on the headlights, front euro fog lights and lower foglights and 800 watt amp for the subs I got an amazing 14.3 volts without any hesitation.  I was looking for adjustable voltage regulators and found your website, I ordered 1 of each - external and internal.. noting that it would be difficult to adjust the voltage on the internal regulator I installed the external regulator set up.  Before, with the old BOSCH regulator my car would run horribly with all the electric accessories running . . . . not anymore...WOW !!!!    J.N., Phoenix, AZ.
28 32

EXTERNAL Adjustable Regulator Kits.
These are complete kits for any common Bosch 28mm slip ring Alternator (external fan type of course). 
This kit incorporates three parts: 
1. A SEPARATE BRUSH ASSEMBLY will replace your existing internal voltage regulator in the rear of your alternator...

2. Plus a REMOTE ADJUSTABLE REGULATOR is included, which may be mounted on a fender or other convenient place (It's preferable to mount it away from engine heat if possible)...


If a standard 34 inch harness is not long enough for your installation, I can supply a
custom harness of any length for a small additional fee.   You may choose a harness with finished connector ends or with one or both ends unassembled
Unassembled ends would permit you to trim the harness to your preferred length if needed and then assemble the final connector crimp terminals yourself. 

The VOLTAGE SETTING ADJUSTMENT on this regulator is done with a small flat screwdriver on the under side of the regulator (see photo):
CLOCKWISE to increase voltage.
COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to decrease voltage

This regulator is normally adjustable to approximately 14.5 to 15 volts (some alternators slightly more, some less). I recommend a limit of about 14.5 to 14.8 volts if you're using a high-quality AGM battery (like Optima or similar). If you're using an old-school lead-acid or "flooded" battery, you should probably keep output under 14.5 volts.

The typical adjustment range when a STATIC BENCH TEST is performed on one of these regulators is about 13.20 to 15.10 volts.

Wiring and Pin-out Information:
This EXTERNAL style regulator (B-Circuit Type) works especially well with cars like the '81-'85 Volvo 240 Turbo, where the alternator is low in the engine bay and on the exhaust side of the engine.  Access to the back of the alternator for adjustments can be difficult (pretty much impossible with a 240 Turbo). So getting a remote regulator makes good sense.  Also, if there is a hot exhaust manifold or turbo close to the alternator in your car, mounting a remote regulator a further distance away from that heat will result in more consistent voltage readings.  Scroll down to the installation tips to see a demonstration of how I installed this kit in one of my own Volvos.


"I ordered an external adjustable voltage regulator from your website last Tuesday and it was waiting for me Thursday when I got home from work. 45 minutes later, I had my 100 Amp Bosch alternator and your voltage regulator setup in place making 14.2 volts at idle. This is on my '90 Volvo 244 turbo with a long history of killing batteries and voltage regulators, I imagine due to heat and the cheap voltage regulators on the rebuilt alternators I've been using. Anyway, this is something I should have done a long time ago. In thirteen years, I have never seen this car make more than 14 volts at idle under the very best of circumstances - and usually not for very long. It has been just under 1000 miles since the install and I'm still making 14.2 volts at idle on the nose. I've checked it hot and cold, before I start out and after a long day of mixed driving - even mid trip. 14.2 volts at idle. Nice. Great product, good quality, fast shipping and a great price. I've admired your services and products for a long time and you live up to your reputation, count me as a very satisfied customer."  R.L., Bechtelsville, PA

"The part worked great! Most noticeable difference was that my interior AC/heater fan that was either very weak or would get stuck, now functions properly. Other than that, it just seems to idle a little smoother. The only thing I had to adjust for was that the plastic of the new voltage regulator was slightly larger in size than the stock Porsche part, so I got out my dremel and a carbide cutter and it only took a few seconds to shave it down. After that, the screw holes lined up just fine. I've got it set at 14.3 volts with no accessories on, and it dips to 14.0 with lights, fan, AC, and radio going. I'm pleased with this part, and have let other 944 owners know it's worth it."  D.M., Arcata, CA

(Please read WARNINGS regarding installation errors. Click Here)

This item will fit all Volvo 240/260 '75-'93, 740/760 '84-'92 with a Bosch external fan alternator.
These regulators will also fit MANY other Bosch external fan alternators, such as in a Porsche, BMW, VW, Audi and many others.  This particular type fits those with 28mm slip rings ONLY
(A rare 32mm slip ring type is also available in an *Internal* Regulator below). 
Most external fan Bosch alternators have 28mm slip rings. 

Scroll down for EXTENSIVE Part Number and Car Cross-References.

 External Adjustable Regulator Kit.
(B-Circuit Type
Available for most 28 mm slip ring type alternators.

The VOLTAGE SETTING ADJUSTMENT on this regulator is done with a small flat screwdriver on the under side of the regulator:
CLOCKWISE to increase voltage.
COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to decrease voltage.

Click Here

CUSTOM LENGTH HARNESS OPTION: If a standard 34 inch harness is not long enough for your installation, I can supply a custom harness of any length up to 6 feet for a small additional fee of $5.00.   Harnesses normally come with FINISHED connector terminal ends, however you may choose one or both ends unassembledNon-assembled ends would permit you to trim a harness to your preferred length if needed and then you would crimp the final connector terminal ends yourself. 
Use the comment/special request box below to enter these details or this request.

External Adjustable Regulator Kit

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Do you need an extra or replacement Brush Assembly for the above External Regulator Kit?

Brush Holder Assembly

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External Voltage Regulator (regulator only):

This adjustable external regulator is the same one included in the above full kit, but it is available separately.
The VOLTAGE SETTING ADJUSTMENT on this regulator is done with a small flat screwdriver on the under side of the regulator:
Turn CLOCKWISE to increase voltage.
Turn COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to decrease voltage.

This regulator corresponds to the following Volvo Part Numbers:














This regulator corresponds to the following Bosch Part Numbers:

0 190 062 001

0 190 062 002

0 190 062 004

0 190 062 005

0 190 062 007

0 190 600 001

0 190 600 004

0 190 600 005

0 190 600 006

0 190 600 008

0 190 600 009

0 190 600 010

0 190 600 011

0 190 600 012

0 190 600 013

0 190 600 014

0 190 600 016

0 190 600 018

0 190 600 020

0 190 600 021

0 190 601 001

0 190 601 002

0 190 601 003

0 190 601 006

0 190 601 007

0 190 601 008

0 190 601 009

0 190 601 010

0 190 601 011

0 190 601 012

0 190 601 013

0 190 601 017

0 192 062 001

0 192 062 004

0 192 062 005

0 192 062 007

9 190 085 001

9 190 087 011



Additional part numbers for other makes CLICK HERE

External Adjustable Regulator Only
Order Quantity (External Regulator Only)
: Type:
Comment optional:
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Internal Adjustable Regulator

(A-Circuit Type)
Available for 28 mm slip ring (this is the most common): IN STOCK.

or 32 mm slip ring type (this type is pretty rare): 32 mm type is not normally stocked. Please email.
This complete regulator/brush assembly (A-Circuit Type) can be installed in your alternator in place of your original Bosch or Bosch-type regulator.  It's an all-in-one part and can be adjusted up to an approximate maximum of 14.9 volts.
The VOLTAGE SETTING ADJUSTMENT on this regulator is done with a small flat screwdriver on the regulator: 
Turn CLOCKWISE to increase voltage.
Turn COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to decrease voltage.

I recommend setting a limit of about 14.4 to 14.5 volts measured at the battery at idle with no lights or accessories on
A typical adjustment range for this unit when a static bench test is performed is about 13.50 to 14.90 volts. This style seems to be preferred for most owners of Volvo 740/760 or 940/960 series cars where the alternator is mounted high in the engine bay and the back of the alternator is easily accessible for adjustment.  This regulator will work in a 240 also, but access to the adjustment screw might be difficult since the alternator is mounted low and forward of the exhaust manifold. This regulator is not recommended for a 240 Turbo, since it will be very difficult to make adjustments.   

This regulator corresponds to the following Volvo Part Numbers:
Additional part numbers for other makes CLICK HERE



This item will fit all Volvo 240/260 '75-'93, 740/760 '84-'92 with a Bosch external fan alternator.
These regulators will also fit MANY other Bosch external fan alternators, such as in a Porsche, BMW, VW, Audi and many others.  This particular type fits those with 28mm slip rings or 32mm slip rings
Most external fan Bosch alternators have 28mm slip rings. 

Scroll down for Part Number and Car Cross-References or email Dave.

Click Here

Internal Adjustable Regulator

Order Quantity: Type:
Slip Ring Size:

NEXT Please Select Shipping for This Item Below and Click "Add to Cart"

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Separate Shipping is also available if needed: CLICK HERE

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Internal Voltage Regulator, NON-ADJUSTABLE.
14.8 volt set-point.

This internal regulator can be installed in your alternator in place of your original Bosch or Bosch-type regulator. 
Factory set for 14.8 volts (standard non-adjustable regulators are usually set at 14.1 to 14.2 volts). 

This item will fit all Volvo 240/260 '75-'93, 740/760 '84-'92 with a Bosch external fan alternator.
These regulators will also fit MANY other Bosch external fan alternators, such as in a Porsche, BMW, VW, Audi and many others. 
This particular type fits those with 28mm slip rings ONLY.  Most external fan Bosch alternators have 28mm slip rings. 

Scroll down for Part Number and Car Cross-References or email Dave.

 Internal Regulator, non-adjustable.
Fixed 14.8 volt set point.
If you DON'T need an adjustable regulator, this will be the one you need.
Fits 28 mm type slip ring only.

These are factory set for 14.8 volts (higher than the standard 14.1 to 14.2 volt type).
Keep in mind that this DOES NOT MEAN you will get 14.8 volts from your alternator.  It's for the same reason why you will never get 14.2 volts from your original 14.2 volt regulator.  If you did, you would not be looking for a better regulator here. This regulator, however, will offer an improvement over a factory regulator.

This regulator corresponds to the following Volvo Part Numbers:
Additional part numbers for other make CLICK HERE



Click Here
Internal Non-Adjustable Regulator

Order Quantity: Type:
Comments or Special Requests:
Please Select Shipping for This Item Below and Click "Add to Cart"

Click HERE if you're interested in learning about the new PRE-PAID Duty program for CANADA Shipping.

Separate Shipping is Available if Needed: CLICK HERE

To View Cart or Check Out please click "View Cart" below:

Please Select Shipping Option and click "Add to Cart"

To View Cart or Check Out please click "View Cart" below:

Click HERE if you're interested in learning about the new PRE-PAID Duty program for CANADA Shipping.

Here's a photo below of an Internal Adjustable Voltage Regulator in a typical Bosch IR/EF (Internal Regulator/External Fan) alternator from a Volvo 740 GLE.  Installation on a regulator is easier in most cars if the alternator is removed.  The voltage adjusting screw can be seen in the back of this adjustable regulator.

If replacement screws are needed to mount a voltage regulator, the typical size screw needed is M4-0.7 x 13 Philips head.

Bosch Alternator  --  External Fan Type
P A R T   N U M B E R S
28 mm Slip Rings
32 mm sling ring part numbers below (CLICK HERE)
ALL 28mm External or Internal Adjustable Regulators listed for sale above will exchange correctly with all the Bosch-type Voltage Regulator Part Numbers and Bosch Alternator Part Numbers listed here.
Much of this information was compiled with the help of customers who have verified the correct fitment of these regulators over more than 20 years.
If you have a regulator or alternator part number that you think should fit, but does not match these numbers, or one that fits and I need to add it to this list, please email me.

Alfa-Romeo 116100506011, 119130506000, 119130506023, 119136506000, 705684800000, Alfa Romeo 164 '91-'92, Milano '88 using Bosch 0-120-488-102 28mm alternator, Milano '89, Spider '86 using Bosch 0-120-489-903 or 904, 'Spider '90-'94 using Bosch 0-120-488-102 or 0-120-488-103 28mm alternator.  81-86 Alfa Romeo GTV-6, 81-89 Alfa Romeo Spider, 87-89 Alfa Romeo Milano using Bosch: 0-120-489-904, 0-120-489-715, 0-120-489-716, 0-120-489-903, 0-120-489-905, 0-120-489-906.

Audi  4000 84-87 1800cc,  4000 85-87 2200cc 5 Cyl, 5000 85-86 2000cc Diesel Turbo, 5000 84-86 2200cc 5 Cyl, 5000 Turbo 86-88 2226cc 5 Cyl, 5000 Turbo 86-88 2309cc 5 Cyl, 5000 Turbo Quattro 84-88 2226cc 5 Cyl, 5000 Turbo Quattro 86-88 2309cc 5 Cyl, 80/90 88-91 2000cc, Coupe 83-87 All 5 Cyl eng., Quattro 85-88 All 5 Cyl eng.:  025 903 023E,  026 903 015B, 034 903 015D,  034 903 803, 026 903 015F,  026 903 017,  026 903 017B,  026 903 017BX,  026 903 017X,  026 903 023,  034 903 015K,  034 903 015M,  034 903 016C,  035 903 017A,  035 903 017AU,  035 903 017AV,  035 903 017AX,  035 903 023B,  035 903 023D,  049 903 023P,  049 903 027,  049 903 027A,  049 903 027X,  068 903 017B,  068 903 017BX,  068 903 017P,  068 903 017PX,  068 903 018A,  068 903 018B,  068 903 029M,  068-903-803, 068 903 803D, 069 903 017A,  069 903 017AX,  069 903 023D,  069 903 023G, 069 903 023H, 070-903-017, 070-903-023B, 070-903-023BX, 070-903-023E, 176 903 027.

BMW and Bosch PNs for BMW: 1711391, 1231-1271664, 1231-1279548, 1231-1711203, 1231-1713449, 1231-1713450, 1231-1714219, 1231-1714220, 1231-1721921, 1231-1721923, 1231-1722418, 1231-1722419, 1231-1726002, 1231-1726022, 1231-1726602, 1231-1726603, 1232-1271644, 1232-1711399.   320i '77-'83 with Bosch 0-120-489-039 and 0-120-489-040 alternator, 318i '84-'85 and '91-'92 with Bosch 0-120-469-617, 0-120-469-913, 0-120-469-914, 0-120-469-918 and 0-120-469-919 alternator, 325iX '88-'91 with Bosch 0-120-469-777, 0-120-469-778 and 0-120-469-779 alternator, 325e '84-'88 with Bosch 0-120-469-617 or 0-120-469-779 alternator, 325i E30 '87-'93 with Bosch 0-120-469-779, 0-120-469-985, or 0-120-468-105 alternator (NOT '92-'95 with Bosch 0-120-465-031 or 0-120-485-048 14mm alternator), 525i '89-'91 with Bosch 0-120-468-042, 0-120-468-043, 0-120-469-869, 0-120-469-912, 0-120-468-062 (opt 115A '91-'92), 0-120-468-064 (optional 140A '91-'92) alternator (NOT '92-'95 with Bosch 0-120-465-031 or 0-120-485-048 14mm alternator),  528e '82-'88 with Bosch 0-120-489-031, 0-120-469-617 and 0-120-469-778 alternator, 528i '79-'81 with Bosch 0-120-489-037 alternator, 530i '75 with Bosch 0-120-400-771 alternator, 535i '85-'93 with Bosch 0-120-468-007, 0-120-468-008, 0-120-469-775, 0-120-469-776, 0-120-468-096, 0-120-468-098 alternator, 633 CSi '78-'81 with Bosch 0-120-489-037 alternator, 635 CSi '79-'89, 733i '78-'81 with Bosch 0-120-489-037 alternator (lacking info on later 733 and early 735), 735i '87-'92 with Bosch 0-120-468-007, 0-120-468-008, 0-120-468-013, 0-120-469-775, 0-120-469-776, 0-120-468-096 and 0-120-468-098 alternator, 750i '88-'94 with Bosch 0-120-468-030, 0-120-468-033 and 0-120-339-547 alternator, 850 Ci/CSi '93-'95 with Bosch 0-120-468-033, 0-120-339-547 alternator, M3 E30 '87-'91 with Bosch 0-120-469-804, 0-120-469-805 alternator, M5 E28 '87-'88 (it will fit, but I'm lacking specific PNs), M5 E34 '91-'93 with Bosch 0-120-468-073, 0-120-468-074, 0-120-468-050, 0-120-468-051 and 0-120-468-067 alternator. 

BOSCH part numbers that fit or correspond to this 28 mm slip ring regulator (Alternator and regulator numbers below. Not a 100% complete list): AL27X, AL29X, AL30X, AL31X, AL32X, AL33X, AL34X, AL35X, AL36X, AL40X, AL42X, AL45X, AL46X, AL49X, AL54X, AL57X, AL58X, AL65X, AL80X, AL117X, AL 124X, AL129X, AL140X, AL148X, AL170X, AL173X, AL0152X,
0-120-400-756, 0-120-400-757, 0-120-400-858, 0-120-409-918, 0-120-450-001, 0-120-450-002, 0-120-468-001,
0-120-468-002, 0-120-468-003, 0-120-468-006, 0-120-468-009, 0-120-468-010, 0-120-468-070; 0-120-469-002, 0-120-469-003, 0-120-469-012, 0-120-469-015, 0-120-469-541, 0-120-469-542, 0-120-469-545, 0-120-469-546, 0-120-469-551, 0-120-469-552, 0-120-469-553, 0-120-469-554, 0-120-469-556, 0-120-469-558, 0-120-469-559, 0-120-469-560, 0-120-469-561, 0-120-469-563, 0-120-469-564, 0-120-469-566, 0-120-469-575, 0-120-469-576, 0-120-469-577, 0-120-469-578, 0-120-469-581, 0-120-469-582, 0-120-469-586, 0-120-469-587, 0-120-469-593, 0-120-469-594, 0-120-469-595, 0-120-469-598, 0-120-469-599, 0-120-469-600, 0-120-469-602, 0-120-469-603, 0-120-469-604, 0-120-469-605, 0-120-469-606, 0-120-469-607, 0-120-469-610, 0-120-469-617, 0-120-469-618, 0-120-469-619, 0-120-469-621, 0-120-469-622, 0-120-469-623, 0-120-469-624, 0-120-469-631, 0-120-469-632, 0-120-469-633, 0-120-469-635, 0-120-469-636, 0-120-469-637, 0-120-469-638, 0-120-469-639, 0-120-469-640, 0-120-469-648, 0-120-469-649, 0-120-469-650, 0-120-469-651, 0-120-469-654, 0-120-469-666, 0-120-469-670, 0-120-469-671, 0-120-469-674, 0-120-469-675, 0-120-469-677, 0-120-469-680, 0-120-469-689, 0-120-469-690, 0-120-469-696, 0-120-469-697, 0-120-469-698, 0-120-469-699, 0-120-469-700, 0-120-469-701, 0-120-469-702, 0-120-469-703, 0-120-469-704, 0-120-469-705, 0-120-469-706, 0-120-469-707, 0-120-469-708, 0-120-469-710, 0-120-469-711, 0-120-469-712, 0-120-469-714, 0-120-469-715, 0-120-469-716, 0-120-469-717, 0-120-469-718, 0-120-469-719, 0-120-469-720, 0-120-469-721, 0-120-469-727, 0-120-469-728, 0-120-469-729, 0-120-469-732, 0-120-469-733, 0-120-469-734, 0-120-469-735, 0-120-469-737, 0-120-469-739, 0-120-469-740, 0-120-469-741, 0-120-469-742, 0-120-469-743, 0-120-469-754, 0-120-469-757, 0-120-469-758, 0-120-469-759, 0-120-469-768, 0-120-469-775, 0-120-469-776, 0-120-469-778, 0-120-469-780, 0-120-469-782, 0-120-469-783, 0-120-469-784, 0 120 469 785, 0 120 469 786, 0 120 469 787, 0-120-469-790, 0 120 469 793, 0-120-469-794, 0-120-469-795, 0-120-469-804, 0-120-469-805, 0-120-469-806, 0-120-469-816, 0-120-469-817, 0-120-469-818, 0-120-469-819, 0-120-469-820, 0-120-469-821, 0-120-469-822, 0-120-469-823, 0-120-469-828, 0-120-469-830, 0-120-469-831, 0-120-469-832, 0-120-469-834, 0-120-469-835, 0-120-469-836, 0-120-469-839, 0-120-469-845, 0-120-469-846, 0-120-469-862, 0-120-469-863, 0-120-469-864, 0-120-469-865, 0-120-469-868, 0-120-469-869, 0-120-469-876, 0-120-469-877, 0-120-469-878, 0-120-469-879, 0-120-469-885, 0-120-469-886, 0-120-469-887, 0-120-469-888, 0-120-469-901, 0-120-469-902, 0-120-469-903, 0-120-469-904, 0-120-469-906, 0-120-469-907, 0-120-469-908, 0-120-469-913, 0-120-469-914, 0-120-469-918, 0-120-469-919, 0-120-469-967, 0-120-469-971, 0-120-469-972, 0-120-469-975, 0 120 469 992, 0 120 469 993, 0 120 469 998, 0-120-484-012; 0-120-488-114, 0-120-488-126, 0-120-488-152, 0-120-488-183, 0-120-488-184, 0-120-488-219, 0-120-488-220, 0-120-488-221, 0-120-488-238, 0-120-488-245, 0-120-488-246, 0-120-488-247, 0-120-488-249, 0-120-488-254, 0-120-488-263, 0-120-488-264, 0-120-488-265, 0-120-488-279, 0-120-488-280, 0-120-488-976, 0-120-488-993; 0-120-489-002, 0-120-489-003, 0-120-489-004, 0-120-489-005, 0-120-489-006, 0-120-489-007, 0-120-489-008, 0-120-489-009, 0-120-489-010, 0-120-489-011, 0-120-489-012, 0-120-489-013, 0-120-489-014, 0-120-489-015, 0-120-489-016, 0-120-489-017, 0-120-489-028, 0-120-489-029, 0-120-489-030, 0-120-489-031, 0-120-489-036, 0-120-489-037, 0-120-489-038, 0-120-489-039, 0-120-489-040, 0-120-489-041, 0-120-489-042, 0-120-489-043, 0-120-489-044, 0-120-489-045, 0-120-489-046, 0-120-489-057, 0-120-489-058, 0-120-489-062, 0-120-489-063, 0-120-489-069, 0-120-489-070, 0-120-489-076, 0-120-489-077, 0-120-489-080, 0-120-489-081, 0-120-489-082, 0-120-489-083, 0-120-489-093, 0-120-489-094, 0-120-489-107, 0-120-489-108, 0-120-489-109, 0-120-489-110, 0-120-489-111, 0-120-489-112, 0-120-489-113, 0-120-489-114, 0-120-489-115, 0-120-489-116, 0-120-489-117, 0-120-489-120, 0-120-489-121, 0-120-489-122, 0-120-489-128, 0-120-489-129, 0-120-489-130, 0-120-489-131, 0-120-489-133, 0-120-489-134, 0-120-489-137, 0-120-489-138, 0-120-489-139, 0-120-489-141, 0-120-489-142, 0-120-489-143, 0-120-489-144, 0-120-489-152, 0-120-489-153, 0-120-489-154, 0-120-489-167, 0-120-489-170, 0-120-489-171, 0-120-489-183, 0-120-489-186, 0-120-489-191, 0-120-489-195, 0-120-489-196, 0-120-489-197, 0-120-489-198, 0-120-489-199, 0-120-489-200, 0-120-489-201, 0-120-489-202, 0-120-489-203, 0-120-489-204, 0-120-489-205, 0-120-489-206, 0-120-489-207, 0-120-489-208, 0-120-489-209, 0-120-489-210, 0-120-489-211, 0-120-489-215, 0-120-489-217, 0-120-489-218, 0-120-489-220, 0-120-489-228, 0-120-489-229, 0-120-489-235, 0-120-489-236, 0-120-489-237, 0-120-489-238, 0-120-489-239, 0-120-489-246, 0-120-489-247, 0-120-489-248, 0-120-489-249, 0-120-489-250, 0-120-489-260, 0-120-489-261, 0-120-489-262, 0-120-489-282, 0-120-489-283, 0-120-489-286, 0-120-489-296, 0-120-489-308, 0-120-489-323, 0-120-489-324, 0-120-489-325, 0-120-489-326, 0-120-489-327, 0-120-489-328, 0-120-489-329, 0-120-489-330, 0-120-489-331, 0-120-489-332, 0-120-489-333, 0-120-489-338, 0-120-489-349, 0-120-489-351, 0-120-489-352, 0-120-489-353, 0-120-489-362, 0-120-489-364, 0-120-489-365, 0-120-489-366, 0-120-489-367, 0-120-489-368, 0-120-489-369, 0-120-489-370, 0-120-489-371, 0-120-489-372, 0-120-489-373, 0-120-489-380, 0-120-489-381, 0-120-489-385, 0-120-489-386, 0-120-489-401, 0-120-489-403, 0-120-489-418, 0-120-489-419, 0-120-489-420, 0-120-489-421, 0-120-489-422, 0-120-489-423, 0-120-489-432, 0-120-489-433, 0-120-489-434, 0-120-489-436, 0-120-489-437, 0-120-489-438, 0-120-489-474, 0-120-489-486, 0-120-489-487, 0-120-489-489, 0-120-489-493, 0-120-489-494, 0-120-489-549, 0-120-489-715 0-120-489-748, 0-120-489-823, 0-120-498-826, 0-120-489-834, 0-120-489-835, 0-120-489-903, 0-120-489-904, 0-120-489-909, 0-120-489-549, 0-120-489-550, 0-120-489-910, 0-120-489-913, 0-120-489-914, 0-120-489-960, 0-120-489-961, 0-120-489-963, 0-120-489-964, 0-120-489-965, 0-120-489-966, 0-120-489-967, 0-120-489-968, 0-120-489-969, 0-120-489-976, 0-120-489-980, 0-120-489-981, 0-120-489-982, 0-120-489-983, 0-120-489-986, 0-120-489-987, 0-120-489-988, 0-120-489-990, 0-120-489-991, 0-120-489-992, 0-120-489-993;
0-886-031-501, 0 986 043 177,
1-192-052-015, 1-192-052-016, 1-192-052-020, 1-192-052-021, 1-192-052-024, 1-192-052-025, 1-192-052-027, 1-192-052-029,
1-197-311-003, 1-197-311-004, 1-197-311-005, 1-197-311-006, 1-197-311-007, 1-197-311-008, 1-197-311-009, 1-197-311-010, 1-197-311-011, 1-197-311-012, 1-197-311-013, 1-197-311-018, 1-197-311-021, 1-197-311-022, 1-197-311-023, 1-197-311-026, 1-197-311-027, 1-197-311-028, 1-197-311-035, 1-197-311-038, 1-197-311-039, 1-197-311-040, 1-197-311-050,
1-197-311-090, 1-197-311-800,
9-120-080-129, 9-120-143-036;
9-120-144-206, 9-120-144-207, 9-120-144-216, 9-120-144-217, 9-120-144-237, 9-120-144-281, 9-120-144-282, 9-120-144-290, 9-120-144-292, 9-120-144-301, 9-120-144-305, 9-120-144-600, 9-120-144-601, 9-120-144-602, 9-120-144-603, 9-120-144-604, 9-120-144-608, 9-120-144-609, 9-120-144-612, 9-120-144-615, 9-120-144-616, 9-120-144-619, 9-120-144-620;
9-120-334-324, 9-127-041-109, 9-127 041 110, 9-127-041-200,

Deutz-Allis 93155548

Fendt X830060022010

Ford 86GB-10316AA, 82BB-10316-AA, E5RD-10316-BA

Fiat  60751135, 60751403, 60751439, 9938171, 9942848, 9942885, 99428884, 9950155, 9960176, Fiat 128 '72-'74 using Bosch 0-120-300-559 or 0-120-300-568 28mm alternator, X1/9  '74 using Bosch 0-120-300-559 or 0-120-300-568 28mm alternator, 1980 124 2000cc with fuel injection and Bosch 0-120-489-823 28mm alternator, Bertone '83-'84 using Bosch 0-120-489-072 28mm alternator,   

GM 90349704, 90349907

IHC 1530372C1

KHD 81211111

Lancia Beta '74 using Bosch 0-120-300-559 or 0-120-300-568 28mm alternator,

Lester 13023, 13056, 13119, 13122, 13129, 13153, 13154, 13156, 13235, 13243, 13244, 13281, 13291, 13363, 13367, 13379, 13603, 13604, 13607, 13707, 14059, 14392, 14412, 14418, 14420, 14421, 14595, 14603, 14783, 14784, 14785, 14791, 14802, 14820, 14824, 14833, 14876, 14964, 14965, 14966

Lucas 21221349, UCB403

Mercedes Benz 002-154-4106, 002-154-5106, 002-154-7206, 002-154-7906, 007-154-48-02, 007-154-51-02, 007-154-52-02, 007-154-53-02, 007-154-54-02, 007-154-55-02, 007-154-56-02, 007-154-57-02, 007-154-58-02, 007-154-60-02, 007-154-61-02, 008-154-20-02, 008-154-87-02, Mercedes 190D '84-'89, 240D 2.4L 1974 (early '74 55A alternator with external reg), 240D 2.4L '74-'83 (late '74 and later 55A with internal reg), 280 and 280C and S 2.8L '73-'76, 280CE and E and SE 2.8L '77-'81, 300D and SD and TD 3.0L '78-'81, 450SE and SEL '73-'80.

Opel 1204256, 1204259, 1204253, 90007041

PARIS RHONE A13V02, A13V05, A13V07

Porsche 0 190 601 006, 0 192 052 006, 1 197 311 090 (1976-77 930 with SEV alt - external reg fits), 944 603 14100, 944 603 14101 (1983-91 944), 928-603-142-00 (1992-95 968), 928-603-153-00,  (there are lots of other Porsche applications that are not listed for Bosch internal regulator, external fan alternators)Some other Porsche fitments:  1989-98 911 with Bosch alt, 1976 912 with Bosch alt - external reg fits also, 1970-76 914 with Bosch alt - external reg fits also, 1977-79 924 with Bosch alt, 1986-88 924 with Bosch alt, 1983-91 944 with Bosch alt, 1978-82 928 with Bosch alt, 1985-95 928 with Bosch alt (NOT Paris Rhone or Valeo alt), 1992-95 968 with Bosch alt.

8571846, 8590549, Saab 99 '73-'80 with Bosch 0-120-400-922 and 0-120-489-881 alternator (not models with SEV alternator), 900 Turbo and non-turbo '79-'94 with Bosch 0-120-468-067, 0-120-489-881, 0-120-469-683, 0-001-311-108, 0-120-489-253, 0-120-469-611, 0-120-469-682 alternator (not '94 and later with the newer internal fan alternator), 9000 '87-'94 with Bosch 0-120-468-035, 0-120-468-045, 0-120-469-682, 0-120-469-684, 0-120-469-881 alternator. 

240 ALL 1976-1993, 740 ALL 1985+ with any external fan alternator.  Specific Part Numbers: 1235887 1979-84 240/260, 1257294-7, 1258994-1, 1258995 1979-84 240/260, 1269124-2, 1269702-5, 1323351-5, 1323488-5, 1323912-4, 1324142-7, 1324617, 1324957-8, 134850,  1348507-3, 1348508,  1363493 1985+ 240 55amp, 1363496-9, 1363497, 1363497-7, 1363511, 1363511-5, 1398327-5, 1416009, 241735, 244332, 269479-2, 269629-0, 3523710, 3544497, 3544497-5, 5001961-1, 5002730-9, 5003643-3, 5003644, 5003644-1, 5003665-6, 5003804, 5003804-1

Volkswagen   I get a lot of questions about VW applications.  Hopefully this will help, but feel free to ask if you don't see yours. The regulator here fit a LOT of Volkswagens. I don't list every AL number.  There are too many.  Instead I try to show cars by year and model. If it's listed here it fits.
Cabriolet 84-93 1800cc all,  Corrado 1800cc 89-92, Fox 87-93 1800cc,  Golf 85-92 1800cc,  Jetta 83-84 1715cc and 1780cc, Jetta 85-92 1800cc,  Golf or Jetta 1600 diesel 85-86, Jetta 1600 diesel 89-92, Passat 1800cc 91-92, Quantum 85-85 1800cc, Scirocco 83-84 1780cc, Scirocco 85-88 1800cc, Vanagon aircooled 80-82, Vanagon watercooled 83-84 1913cc, Vanagon 1913cc 89, Vanagon 86-92 2100cc**AL30X, AL32X, AL173X, 021 903 023E, 025 903 023D, 025 903 023DX, 026 903 015,  026 903 015A,  026 903 015AX,  026 903 015D, 034 903 803, 37 903 018A, 037 903 023A, 037 903 023P,  068 903 017L, 068 903 017LX,  068 903 017N,  068 903 017NX,  068 903 017Q,  068 903 018,  068 903 018X,  068 903 029C,  068 903 029E,  068 903 029Q,  068 903 029QX,  068 903 033E, 069 903 023F, 068-903-803, 068 903 803D, 070-903-017, 070-903-023B, 070-903-023BX, 070-903-023E, 176 903 029.

VANAGON CONCERNS:  A few years ago there was something strange going on with Vanagons installations.  Just Vanagons.  No other VWs.  I'm not that familiar with Vanagons, but there were some issues reported with about 6 different Vanagons over several years (last occuring in 2017) when using adjustable regulators. SPECIFICALLY, the symptom was that the alternator was failing to charge above about 4000-4500 RPM (or sometimes the charge light would come on at higher RPMs). When this has occurred, re-installing the old regulator seemed to correct it.
Some have suggested it might have been a vibration issue with some engines or possibly some weaker springs on the regulator brushes. No definite source or better explanation for this strange behavior was ever found until the problems mysteriously vanished in 2017. So please keep this in mind if you intend to use any of these internal or external regulators in a Vanagon.  Strange, huh?  If you use these regulators on a Vanagon, please let me know your experience.

No more bad reports have been found since 2017.

VANAGON SUCCESS REPORT #1:  November 2017.  Michael C. from Newington, NH. 1987 Vanagon with AL33X alternator replaced by previous owner in 2009 (48k miles ago).  External adjustable regulator kit installed.  Michael reported he needed to FLASH THE FIELD upon installation (details about that HERE). He has a volt gauge and has been monitoring for 1000 plus miles with no issues.

VANAGON SUCCESS REPORT #2:  February 2018.  Richie reports: "Saw your Vanagon warning. I've been running one in my '84 Vanagon for about 6 years now. . . one of the first modifications I did.  Never had a problem with it over thousands of miles and it charges my starting and house battery no problem at 14.5v in conjunction with my Blue Sea Systems ACR.  I wonder what's going on with the others?  Anyways, thanks for a great product."

VANAGON SUCCESS REPORT #3:  July 2018.  Danny S. reports: "Just a quick note that I've been using your internal adjustable voltage regulator in my 1988 vanagon with 2.1 litre for 1 year or so with no problems. Thanks for the great product."

VANAGON SUCCESS REPORT #4:  July 2019.  Paul T. installed an external adjustable regulator in his late-80s Vanagon and he mounted the regulator up front with a 12 foot long wire harness to the back.  He reported on first start-up his DMM read only 12 volts at the battery (not charging) and his alternator light was on. Turning the adjustment screw wouldn't change voltage.  He turned it off and double checked that the brush housing was seated correctly and connections were good, checking harness continuity, etc. .  Then he thought, "Hey, maybe the regulator case needs to be grounded."  (They actually don't)  So he put a jumper wire from the case to ground.  Started it up and it began working. And the voltage adjustment worked also.  He set it to about 14.5v at the battery. After he removed the jumper wire it continued working and has since.  He chalked it up to Vanagon weirdness.  He thought maybe the brushes needed more than a few minutes to wear in.  His on-board volt meter reads 14.2 volts, dropping to 13.9 when he turns on the headlights and radio.  He says: "IDK, van seems to run really great now.  Still absolutely amazed that less than 2 volt increase actually makes an audible and tactile difference in engine operation."

VANAGON SUCCESS REPORT #4: May 2021 from Kelly-Shane F. "Hey, I got your adjustable regulator kit in the mail today, and was pleased at how easy that was to install!!  I stuck it on the stock alternator on a 1980 Vanagon and took a chance since you list only 83-92 (The later watercooled Vanagons) and not my early aircooled one.  Happy to say it worked! I *DID* have to flash the field to get it to start charging, but once I did, it started charging right from idle, where the old regulator needed some RPMs before it started to work. I was only able to get the regulator to go to 14.4 volts at full turn of the POT, but that's well up from the 13.3 the stock regulator was putting out, so I'll take it!  Thanks for the awesome product!!" 

VANAGON SUCCESS REPORT #5: September 2022 from Steve O.: ."Thanks Dave. Another successful install. Yes I had to flash the field, but then it charged like a champ. Vanagoners need this upgrade!" 
Flashing the field is something you should definitely consider if you're installing an external regulator for the first time.
More on FLASHING THE FIELD can be found HERE.


Bosch Alternator  --  External Fan Type
P A R T   N U M B E R S
  32 mm Slip Rings

Much of this information was compiled with the help of customers who have verified the correct fitment of these regulators over more than 20 years.
If you have a regulator or alternator part number that you think should fit, but does not match these numbers, or one that fits and I need to add it to this list, please email me.
A 32mm Slip Ring Alternator is pretty uncommon.   32mm types will not interchange well with a 28mm type.  These Voltage Regulator Part Numbers are for 32mm applications.

Alfa Romeo GT V6 '81-'86, Milano '86-'87, Milano '88 using Bosch 0-120-489-716 32mm alternator, Spider '81-'89 using Bosch 0-120-489-716 32mm alternator
Bosch 0 120 489 653, 0 120 489 654, 0 120 489 657, 0 120 489 659, 0 120 489 735, 0 120 489 759, 0 120 489 760, Letrika Old IA 0606, Saab 85-57-449

Audi/Volkswagen 028-903-803A, 035-903-015, 046-903-015A, 046-903-017A, 049-903-015C, 049-903-015T, 049-903-023C049-903-803B, 049-903-803E, 049-903-803F, 052-903-803, 059-903-803, 059-903-803B, 059-903-803C, 063-903-803, 070-903-803A

BMW 1231 1286 073, 530i '76-'78 with Bosch 0-120-489-650 32mm alternator, 630 CSi '77 with Bosch 0-120-489-621 32mm alternator,

Bosch part numbers AL113X, 0-120-489-080, 0-120-489-653, 0-120-489-654, 0-120-489-657, 0-120-489-659, 0-120-489-735, 0-120-489-759, 0-120-489-760,
0-192-052-001, 0-192-052-002, 0-192-052-004, 0-192-052-005, 0-192-052-006, 0-192-052-008, 0-192-052-011, 0-192-052-012, 0-192-052-013, 0-192-052-014, 0-192-052-017, 0-192-052-018, 0-192-052-019, 0-192-052-022, 0-192-052-024, 0-192-052-025, 0-192-052-026, 0-192-052-028, 0-192-052-031, 1-197-311-000, 1-197-311-001, 1-197-311-002

Delco 90009353

Fiat 4 474 755, 4 475 296, 4 731 653, 9 927 829, 9 933 186, 9 934 791, 82 302 913, Fiat 124 '76-'78 (and Fiat 131 '78) using Bosch 0-120-489-641 32mm alternator, Brava or Spider '79-'82 using Bosch 0-120-489-823, 0-120-489-824 or 0-120-489-641 32mm alternator, Pininfarina '83-'84 using Bosch 0-120-489-823 or 0-120-489-824 32mm alternator, Strada and X1/9  '81-'82 using Bosch 0-120-489-875 or  0-120-489-943 32mm alternator,    
Ford 1477502, 71BB-10316-AA

GM 90009353

Iskra 10-120-110, 11-125-003, 11-125-040, 11-125-049, 11-125-073, 11-125-117, 11-125-121, NRE121301, AER7201, AER1503, AER7207, AER1527

Lancia Beta '75-'82 using Bosch 0-120-489-743 or 0-120-489-877 32mm alternator, Zagato '79-'82 using Bosch 0-120-489-743 or 0-120-489-877 32mm alternator,

Lucas 01221 152, 21221 347, 21221 373, 21931 009, UCB400

Magirus-Deutz 4 248 4638

Magneti-Marelli 648-080-10, 648-080-11, 648-080-12, 648-081-09, RTT110A, RTT110AB, RTT110ABT

Mercedes Benz 002-154-0606, 002-154-1806, 002-154-2506, 002-154-5806

Opel 1204244, 1204252

Porsche  Some 1980-82 924 with Bosch alt, 1983-84 928 with Bosch alt

Saab 85-57-449

505-055, NB411

Scirocco 1981 with 65A alternator 32mm slipring, VW PN 049-903-015, AL116X.

Advantages of an Adjustable Regulator

These adjustable regulators will do wonders for most Volvo 200, 700, or 900 series charging systems and those from many other cars with Bosch external fan alternators.  It permits you to set your voltage instead of relying on the preset voltage found (usually too low) in most older cars with Bosch alternators.

I first began using these regulators in my Volvos more than 30 years ago.  Prior to installing one of these, I would typically find that my alternator would supply lower than optimum voltage output.  On a good day I could see 12.6 to 12.8 volts when FIRST starting the engine (COLD).  Since most of my Volvos had TURBOS, the alternators always suffered from a HEAT-INDUCED VOLTAGE DROP.  I found this could bring voltage output down to 12.5 to 13 volts with NO LOAD.  Then I could see voltage at idle dip below 12 volts when using a load, such as using headlights and the heater blower fan.   I had frequent occasions when voltage dropped so low that my stereo would cut out.  If you don't have at least a good charging voltage (minimum of 12.6 volts), an engine control unit (ECU) can be negatively affected and your battery may not charge properly at all.

When I began using an external mounted adjustable regulator on my 240 Turbo, I began to see an improvement.  I tried mounting the regulator further away from my hot exhaust manifold and turbo. A voltage regulator can be negatively affected by ambient heat.  So a cooler running regulator can mean better alternator efficiency.
After first installing this kit in my 240 Turbo, I set the no-load voltage to 14.5 volts (if your voltage tends to dip at idle like mine did, setting the voltage while running your engine between 1000 and 1500 rpm may work better for you).  I was soon amazed to find that my headlights were brighter, my electric primary cooling fan was running faster, and my stereo amplifier worked perfectly for the very first time.

Different cars can have different levels of improvement according to the condition of your charging system (and connections) and the amperage rating of your alternator.  An 80 or 100 amp alternator will always perform better under load than a smaller 55 amp type.  My car was a good test bed for this regulator and the improvement was dramatic.  Your own results may vary.

Customer Comment:
"Just wanted to thank you for the regulator and let you know it's working very well.  I'm quite impressed with how well made it is, and how easily the voltage is adjusted.  The dashpot is very smooth and linear in how it varies the voltage."

Why does charging drop so much when an alternator gets HOT?

You've probably noticed how much your charging voltage DROPS when your alternator gets HOT, right? This is not something that car alternator manufacturers want to talk about.  The reason is that automotive alternators are specifically engineered so that they reduce output when they get hot.  This is because heat is an enemy to an alternator and it can be a common reason for failure.  So alternator engineers designed their alternators to have the best chances of surviving the WARRANTY PERIOD.  Engineering them to reduce output when they get hot is the answer to that. So there's really not much else you can do with a standard automotive alternator if it's getting hot and dropping voltage. Volvo did add a thin heat shield for the 240 Turbo.  It probably helped a little. This is not as big a problem in cars where the alternator is on the NON-exhaust side, like in the Volvo 740 or 940.

Frequently Asked Question:

Will an adjustable regulator make my alternator always hold voltage at 14.2 volts (or any level) like I want it to?  My alternator output seems to drop at times, especially with several things on at one time, like high-beams and air conditioning, or when HOT.

Answer: An adjustable regulator will raise your voltage initial set-point.  A stock Bosch regulator usually has a factory set-point of about 14.1 to 14.2 volts. Rarely will you actually see that much voltage with a stock Bosch regulator. If you see 13.6-13.8 volts at the battery, you're among the average.  And it will usually drop considerably under load and even more when hot.  An alternator that has a smaller amp rating (such as 55 amps) will not hold a certain voltage set-point as well as one with 70, 80, 100 amps or higher when more load is added.  So the answer is that even with an adjustable regulator, voltage will likely still drop with load and heat. 

The benefit of setting your own higher initial set-point is that it will allow your charging system to begin at a higher level. This will allow it to handle loads better to some degree.  For example, when my '84 240 Turbo had the original 55 amp alternator, the stock regulator usually had an output of about 13.8v when COLD with no accessories on. It could dip to below 12v with the A/C or other high-load things running after the alternator warmed up.  With the adjustable regulator, I was able to set it for 14.5 volts (COLD). It still dropped some with my headlights on or when my A/C came on, but the drop became acceptable because I started at a higher set-point.  A larger alternator from a later car with 80 or 100 amp capacity will usually improve the voltage drop caused by load.

Installation Notes and Tips:
Since some Bosch alternators sometimes produce LESS VOLTAGE at idle than with an elevated RPM above idle, you might find it harder to adjust your voltage output set-point consistently, depending on your idle speed.  In these cases, you might try doing voltage tests with the engine idle increased slightly to around 1000 rpm, where voltage output should be more stable.

Here's a photo of an Internal Adjustable Voltage Regulator in a typical Bosch IR/EF (Internal Regulator/External Fan) alternator from a Volvo 740 GLE.  Installation of a regulator is easier in most cars if the alternator is removed.  The voltage adjusting screw can be seen in the back of this adjustable regulator.

If replacement screws are needed to mount a voltage regulator or a brushholder, the typical size screw needed is M4-0.7 x 13 Philips head.

For instructional purposes, I set out to install an External Adjustable Kit in a 1981 Volvo 240 DL and then wrote about it below. 
<<< In this photo, you can see the internal voltage regulator attached to the back of the alternator.  It's the black box thing.  It's attached by two screws.  If you are working on a 240 Turbo, I recommend that you remove the alternator, since it will be very hard to get in behind it while it's still mounted in place.

Before this installation, I checked the no-load (COLD) voltage at the battery (engine running at idle) and found it to be 13.7 volts. This was pretty much average for a small Bosch alternator in an old Volvo like this.
The first order of business when installing this item: disconnect the negative side of your battery.   You will be playing near the big red 12 volt positive cable on the rear of your alternator and you don't want any surprise ZAPS to occur.

For BEST access to the rear of the alternator in a Volvo 240, you should remove the alternator from the car.  If you have a car with the alternator in a better position where you have lots of room to work behind it, such as a Volvo 740, then it will be easier to install while the alternator remains in the car. 

If you are not confident in your abilities with this type of installation, I recommend you have someone with experience help or have a professional install it for you.  It's possible to permanently damage the regulator when installing if you don't know what you're doing (click here to see damage photo near bottom of page).  The brushes are fragile and will BREAK if much force is placed on them during installation. 

Here's a photo of the old internal regulator I removed from this 240 above.  It looks like an aftermarket type.

Here's the new brushholder assembly for the EXTERNAL regulator kit
Don't forget to remove the pin on this brush assembly before installation so the brushes will extend as needed.  The pin is only there for shipping and storage to protect the brushes.

NOTE: During these procedures it is best not to handle the brushes with your greasy hands as you can contaminate them and reduce their efficiency.

After reconnecting the battery, I started the car and checked the voltage (measuring it at the battery with a volt meter).  The factory preset voltage for this adjustable regulator seemed to be around 14 volts.  I like it a little higher, so I used a small flat screwdriver to turn the voltage up to 14.5 volts, before turning on any lights or accessories.  The little screw needs to be turned CLOCKWISE just a little bit to increase voltage, COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to decrease voltage.  The screw is very sensitive, so move slowly. Also, do not force the screw past its limit as you will damage the regulator. 

IMPORTANT I do not recommend adjusting this regulator at all without accurately knowing the final voltage.  You should use a real voltage meter hooked up at the battery to see what you are setting it at.  Please don't rely on your in-dash volt gauge, unless you have verified its accuracy.  They are not always accurate.  Do yourself a favor and buy an inexpensive digital meter to accurately measure your voltage at the battery.

NOTE:  When installing a new part like this, it's common to find it making lower voltage on the first start-up.  The brushes are there to make electrical contact with the slip rings inside your alternator. 
Sometimes is takes running the car for a few minutes before those contacts wear in and begin working correctly. 
Scroll down to the "Failure to Charge" section for more info on this.
Here a video showing a typical replacement of a Bosch style voltage regulator.
This video also includes shows how crusty those old SLIP RINGS can get and how it can help to clean them up before installing the new regulator.



Here are some examples of mounting an EXTERNAL type regulator in a 240. One example shows it mounted to the radiator fan shroud. Another example shows it mounted to the windshield fluid reservoir bracket. The regulator can be mounted almost anywhere under your hood within the reach of the harness (or elsewhere if you request a longer harness), unless it's a place with potential for a lot of moisture or heat.

CAUTION: I do not recommend mounting this regulator along a FENDER EDGE or below a HOOD GAP
or mounted with the Adjuster Trim-Pot facing UP.

It turns out that rain (or water when washing your car) can pour through the spaces between the hood and fender and if the regulator is mounted near that location, it will be repeatedly soaked with water.  These regulators are supposedly potted and waterproof, however I have found that corrosion in the trim-pot or in the plug contacts can begin when this occurs repeatedly. Corrosion can eventually interfere with the signals to and from the regulator or it might eventually damage the trim-pot.  A typical symptom of corrosion on your contacts will be unwanted fluctuating voltage.
Try to find a mounting location the will be less likely of a waterfall and try to NOT mount it with the tri
m-pot and contacts facing UP.

<<< This is not normally something I should have to explain. Caution must be taken when plugging a FEMALE TERMINAL onto a MALE SPADE on a regulator or brush assembly.  Some customers have allowed the male spade to slip OFF-CENTER between the insulator and metal terminal, creating a poor connection, which results in a FAILURE.  Please make sure you get the spade CENTERED in the terminal.


Since in many cases when mounting an external style brushholder, you'll be adding something not originally designed for your alternator. So you may find that the center bearing cup on the back may interfere with installing the top of brushholder.

If this happens, a simple solution is to grind a small amount of plastic off of the brushholder top as shown above. Just be careful to not damage the brushes.

It can be helpful to have a good understanding of what connects to the alternator with a brushholder. When installing it, please take note of the D+ contact and the D- contacts on the side that goes into your alternator. These contacts must correctly connect with your alternator. 
  The D+ contact makes contact with an inner part of the alternator as the brushholder is inserted.  This contact transfers positive voltage output from the
alternator to the brushholder, so the regulator can see what that voltage is.
The D- contacts will make contact with the alternator case when it's bolted down.

Do not place anything between these D- contacts and the alternator case, which might keep them from a good connection. If you ever find a GASKET, like shown above, remove it and toss it in the trash.
Also if your alternator has any paint or powder-coating on it, that coating should be removed where these connections touch the alternator case.

The very first thing I can recommend if you are having charge issues or low voltage, check your ground cables at the alternator and battery.  I have seen people forget to reconnect alternator grounds and I have experienced broken and loose ground cables before.  They can drive you nuts.  Often it's a simplest things when problems like this come up. 

This is found in the following Turbobricks thread: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?p=5953929#post5953929

Is your DASH WARNING LIGHT working?
See more info about the dash light HERE.

Get a multi-meter that can read AC and DC voltage.
Check the alternator belt, and belt tension mechanism. Alternators with slipping or loose belts won't charge correctly.

Test 1: Voltage Regulator / Diode Pack Test
With your car running, place the multi-meter set to AC VOLTAGE with leads across the battery terminals. Reading should be very small. If more than +-0.5V RMS AC voltage, you have faulty diodes, and either the voltage regulator or internal rectifier of the alternator needs to be replaced.

Test 2: Positive Battery Cable Resistance Test
With your car running (it's ideal to place your test probes before starting the car to avoid sticking your hands in the belts, etc.) and multi-meter set to DC VOLTAGE, place one probe on the B+ terminal of the alternator, and place the other multi-meter probe on the positive battery terminal. You may need wire extensions to reach both. Any voltage reading greater than 0.3V should cause concern. Anything less than 0.1V is ideal. If 0.3V or greater is measured, repeat this  test between battery positive and starter positive, and again between starter positive and alternator B+ to narrow down the faulty high-resistance cable.

Test 3: Alternator Rectifier Resistance Test
With your car running and multi-meter set to DC VOLTAGE, place test probes on the D+ and B+ terminals on the back of the alternator. Any reading greater than 0.1V is cause for concern. A measurement less than 0.1V DC is ideal. If the reading is greater than 0.1V, the alternator has a faulty rectifier (which cannot be easily replaced by the average DIY'er), and the alternator should either be taken to an alternator repair shop or replaced entirely.

Test 4: Alternator Ground Resistance Test
With your car running, and multi-meter set to DC VOLTAGE, place one test probe on the negative battery terminal, on place the other on the aluminum body of the alternator. Be sure to use the sharp point of the electrode to dig into the aluminum body of the alternator because the surface will be oxidized and not very conductive, and may give a false reading. Any measurement greater than 0.3V is cause for concern. Measurements less than 0.1V are ideal. If more than 0.3V is observed, repeat the test, this time from the negative battery terminal to a bare piece of metal on the car (engine ground cable is a good one). If more than 0.3V is observed here, your negative battery cable is bad. Repeat the test also for the alternator aluminum body to engine metal. If more than 0.1-0.2V is observed, replace the alternator ground wire (short and small wire from body to engine).

If all the tests are passed, but issues still follow, the issue lies somewhere more obscure.
Most alternator/charging failures can be diagnosed with the above preliminary tests.


NOTE TO VW Vanagon Owners: Feedback from VW owners strongly suggests this procedure should ALWAYS be done when installing an EXTERNAL style regulator for the first time in a VW.
If you are converting from an INTERNAL regulator to an EXTERNAL regulator, in some cases the alternator will need to have the Field Flashed
This is because the POLARITY of the brushes for an EXTERNAL regulator
is REVERSED compared to an INTERNAL regulator.
This means direction of current through the brushes and alternator rotor is reversed. The alternator doesn't care. It will work the same in either direction.

What is an A Circuit or B Circuit?

An "A" Circuit type voltage regulator means FULL POWER (+) is connected to a brush (designated D+) while the voltage regulator controls the output by varying the GROUND SIGNAL (-) to the other brush (DF).

Bosch external fan alternators using INTERNAL VOLTAGE REGULATORS use "A" Circuit.

A "B" Circuit type voltage regulator means GROUND (-) is connected to a brush (designated D-) while the voltage regulator controls output by varying the POWER (+) to the other brush (DF).

Bosch external fan alternators using EXTERNAL VOLTAGE REGULATORS use "B" Circuit.

In simple terms, an A Circuit has REVERSED POLARITY compared to a B Circuit.
Here's a video which helps explain.

In any alternator, the rotor has a set magnetic field. One pole is POSITIVE and the other is NEGATIVE. 
In most cases, when starting the engine for the first time after converting to an EXTERNAL regulator, the magnetic field will REVERSE ON ITS OWN and your alternator will begin charging just fine.  But on occasion the current required to do this isn't strong enough to overcome the EXISTING MAGNETIC FIELD, which has been set in place for years. 
Flashing the Field is a quick tool to reverse the polarity without any fuss. 
It isn't all that mysterious.  Alternator rebuilding shops do this routinely to fresh rebuilds on a regular basis. 

Flashing the Field in your Bosch alternator can be done in a few small steps.
Disconnect the
three wires from the installed brush assembly (or disconnected the wires from the regulator).
Then, using a length of wire,
momentarily touch 12+ volts to the DF spade on the brush assembly (or if you can't reach the brush assembly, touch the 12+ volts to the other end of the Green DF wire while it's connected to the DF spade on the installed brush assembly).
This can be 12 volts directly from your
battery using any piece of wire or even using the green wire in the harness provided with the kit. 
Please note the car should NOT be running when doing this, but the alternator does need to be fully installed and properly grounded.
After this procedure, reconnect the regulator harness and start the car.

Flashing the Field in simple steps:
1. Turn the car off.
2. Disconnect the three wires from the external brush assembly (or regulator).
3. Take a piece of wire and touch the DF spade (or green wire) to battery positive for just a moment.
4. Plug the wires back in.
5. Start the car.

Here's a video below that shows an alternator with excessively worn brushes.

You have a high-mileage alternator (this usually means it's pretty well WORN).  I have seen this occur several times on my own installations and several customers have experienced it.  After installing a new brush assembly or regulator, it was found to not be charging during the first time starting the engine.  It can be quite puzzling and you may begin thinking initially you have a faulty regulator.  A classic symptom is having good battery voltage, maybe 12.3 to 12.6 volts with the engine OFF, and having LESS voltage at the battery with the engine running.  In this situation, turning the adjusting screw on the regulator will have no effect.

If you have a failure after replacing parts, the obvious things to check will be your connections at the rear of the alternator. 
1. The BIG RED CABLE is the main power cable.  It goes to the starter motor and then to the battery.
2. The SMALL RED WIRE completes the Battery Warning Light Circuit (light on your dash) and if it is not connected properly the alternator may not charge.  You will know this circuit is complete if you see the Battery Light ON when the ignition key is turned to the 'ON' position with engine still OFF.
3. There is a GROUND cable that is attached to the alternator case (usually a small stud with an 8 mm head nut).  The other end will be connected to the engine or alternator bracket.  If this ground is not complete, the alternator will definitely not charge.

Also, if you have an external regulator, check the 3-pole connections at the brush assembley and at the regulator.  It is possible that one of the wire terminal inserts in the plug became dislodged when the plug was pushed on.  It happens.

If the above connections are good, and still you aren't charging, it is possible there is a less than optimum contact between the NEW brushes and your OLD alternator slip rings. 
When I first discovered this I was quite puzzled, but as it turned out the friction end of the brushes just needed some time to wear in to establish good electrical connections with the old, worn slip rings.
So it would seem one cure would be to continue running the engine until the voltage regulator starts working... the theory being that once a good electrical connection is established the voltage should come up.  This has worked for some customers.


Here's the experience of one customer:
"I took the new brushes out when there was no charge and noticed the contact spot was real small.  It is possible that they need to take the shape of the slip ring and make full contact before a charge appears, at least that is how it looks.
Usually with stock regulators it takes a few seconds for the warning light to go out.  This time it took several tries, and the purchase of an unnecessary new regulator and five minutes of determined revving at high rpm to get it working.  However, overall, I am greatly happy with this setup, my battery used to discharge all the time.  Just from running fog lights and a radio I had only 11 volts on board.  Now I have it set at 13.8v without load and it gives me 12.8v with radio and fog lights.  I would also strongly recommend everyone to install a Voltmeter in addition to this setup."  R.B., (VW Vanagon) Sherman Oaks, CA

Here are some suggestions to follow during installation in well used alternators to help avoid the above condition:
Once you remove the old regulator use some fairly fine sand paper to clean (or "de-glaze") the slip rings.  You can do this by spinning the alternator pulley by hand while reaching in the back of the alternator with the sand paper.  I have been told by experts that it's recommended to use GARNET paper only (the orange stuff). This is because crocus cloth, emery cloth and silicon carbide papers can eventually damage the slip rings. With crocus cloth and emery cloth, the abrasive material is metallic in origin. It can flake off the paper and get down inside the alternator and can cause internal shorts. With the silicon carbide paper you can develop a contamination problem; the silicon can bond with the carbon in the brushes and cause greatly increased brush wear.

Once your slip rings are clean, you can then pre-seat your brushes if you like (not required, but a good thing to do if you can).  Wrap some Garnet paper (200 grit or higher) around a small cylinder around or near 28 mm in diameter and use it as a tool to slowly wear the appropriate arc into the brushes.  This will help them to seat faster, preventing sparking, poor wear and it will increase the life of the brushes.

  Fluctuating Voltage at Idle.
If you have installed an External Voltage Regulator Kit and you later find you're getting fluctuating voltage, the problem is often a poor connection (a connection with high resistance). First check the contact points and terminals on the regulator and also the brush assembly for any signs of CORROSION. Then clean the contacts and re-plug in and try again. If you find any corrosion on the external regulator spades, you might reconsider where you mounted it.  I do not recommend mounting a regulator along the inner fender below a hood gap or anywhere that might get frequent water dousing from rain or washing.  Water freely runs between the hood and fender and will repeatedly douse your regulator if it's below that gap.  Even thought regulators are fully potted and supposedly waterproof, moisture is known for creating corrosion on electrical contacts and such corrosion will interfere. 

Also, it would probably be a good idea to put a little Anti-Corrosion Electrical Paste on these contacts, especially if you live in a place where things get wet alot.  Read more about that HERE.

Lights Pulsing or "Flickering"
When an old alternator wears and degrades, it normally does so in stages. An alternator produces power by rotating three plates across a winding of copper wires. These plates can degrade and DIODES can slowly fail one at a time and then one or more plates may reduce the power output. This makes power output vary as the alternator spins and it can cause a strobe or flicker effect. As more plates/diodes continue to fail, the overall power output drops to levels that will eventually stop charging your battery.

When a diode fails, the amount of DC current drops and, in some cases, AC current will make its way into the vehicle’s power supply. Testing the output regularly at the battery with a voltage tester while the car is running can give indications that things are changing or wearing out. Most automotive parts stores will test alternators and batteries for free, because they want to sell parts to the owner, but keep in mind many stores have limited test equipment (and limited employee knowledge), so often a bad alternator can be diagnosed as good and vice-versa.
A common reason for FLICKERING or PULSING LIGHTS is a worn out alternator. A BAD rectifier or bad DIODE in a rectifier can cause this kind of problem.
An alternator generates AC current. A rectifier is a device in an alternator which converts AC current to DC. When a rectifier fails, it allows AC ripple voltage to enter the vehicles electrical system, which can cause the lights to flicker.
A test can be done using a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) with an AC Voltage setting (ACV) to check the AC voltage feedback or AC ripple.  This test is done by connecting the DMM to the battery while the engine is running.

Keep in mind that testing for AC ripple is not always accurate with a regular (cheap) DMM . For best results, people who know more that I do will recommended using a multimeter that has true RMS (Root Mean Square) built into the meter. 
If you know the capabilities of your DMM, be sure it can block DC voltage while in the AC mode. You can check the battery voltage with your DMM in AC mode when the engine is NOT running. It should not show any voltage if the DC is blocked.

This kind of test is done with the engine RUNNING and best after properly warming up your engine and battery. 
Set the DMM to read AC volts (ACV) and connect the leads to battery positive and negative posts respectively.
Testing at idle can usually be fine. In some cases you may need to increase your idle to approximately 1,500 rpm, which will ensure your alternator is ramping up and charging.
Put a little load on the electrical system by switching on the headlights and/or the blower motor. 
If your DMM reads more than 0.05 to 0.1 volt (50-100mV or milivolts) then the alternator is probably failing. 

Most automotive parts stores have machines that will test an alternator for free, but keep in mind that these tests will often PASS an alternator with a BAD DIODE.



Doing Your Own Installation?

 Electrical parts such as these special regulators are delicate and do not hold up well to abuse.  If you are not experienced with this sort of installation, then I STRONGLY recommend you have someone with experience install it for you.  Otherwise, if you force the crap out of it and destroy it, please don't write me and tell me it simply "fell apart" like this customer did.

Voltage Drop Tests.
The below video will help you determine the heath of your alternator power and ground connections.

Is your dash battery/charge warning light working correctly?

Is your dash charge warning light working correctly?  Here's a quick and simple test. Take the D+ wire (small red wire) off of the alternator and connect it with a jumper to an engine ground (the braided ground at the back of your cam cover will work). Turn the key on. Does the battery lamp light up? Do the parking brake, brake failure and bulb failure lamps come on too? The battery lamp is good. Now you can concentrate on other areas. 
The below video is quite long, but excellent. 
At 10:20 it gets into explaining and testing a dash charge lamp circuit. It shows how you can attach a simple 12v test lamp. Connect one end to battery+ and the other end to the D+ terminal on the alternator (not on the brush holder).  If the alternator then comes to life and begins charging, you’ve discovered the problem is RELATED TO YOUR WARNING LAMP WIRE CIRCUIT.

Another good (SHORT) explanation of how a Dash Warning Light works.

A Bosch alternator only needs a short, initial shot of 12 volts (at the D+ terminal) to initialize or "boot" it into operation.  After the initial shot of voltage the alternator (generating electricity process) should be self sustaining from then until the car is shut off.

Why is the dash charge lamp lit when you first turn the key to "ON"?
The dash lamp is wired to the D+ terminal. It lights up when you turn key to "ON" because there is a GROUND potential coming through the D+ terminal (at the alternator) and it grounds the idiot lamp circuit. Turning the key to "ON" provides power to the other side of the bulb and the bulb then lights. 

As a Bosch alternator begins to spin up, it needs to have that initial excitation charge coming through the dash lamp, which "boots" the alternator into charging. Then as the alternator begins functioning, the ground output from the D+ terminal transitions from ground to +12 volts DC. This transition causes the dash lamp to stop functioning because you now have 12 volts DC standing on both sides of the lamp, thereby the lamp receives no current.

We might think that almost any 12 volt lamp hooked to 12 volts on one side and to the D+ on the other should be sufficient to initiate the alternator operation. It doesn't seem to work that way. The danger of too big a lamp (a lamp acts as a resistor in line) is that you might cause a condition called "Run-On," where the output from the D+ terminal (through the lamp) can become strong enough to "backfeed" power to the ignition system. If this happens, when you turn off the key the engine continues to run and will only to stop after the wire to the D+ terminal is disconnected.

of a Regulator
Static Bench Testing: This YouTube video demonstrates a simple method for bench testing a Bosch style voltage regulator.  This test may be performed on any internal or external regulator (adjustable or non-adjustable) and it will tell you what the voltage the regulator is set to.

Here are some simplified diagrams BELOW that will explain how a regulator may be hooked up for static bench testing.  You should follow the above video and these hook up examples below if you want to test a regulator. This is how I test a regulator if a customer returns one for testing.  Such returns are almost never defective and this test will show it. If you are having trouble, I strongly urge you to look harder and do not be too quick to blame the regulator.

If your work or hobby involves testing stuff like this, a 12 Volt DC Power Supply can be a big help. These can be be found fairly inexpensively as used items on eBay or other places.  This one is an old-school analog type. Most available now will have digital displays.

(for External Regulators)

If you are using an
external regulator (this type has a separate brush assembly), the below Full Field Test method will be pretty easy to do.  It will help you determine how well your alternator is charging.  In case of a problem, this procedure can help you decide if the alternator is at fault or if the regulator is at fault. This test is standard procedure in older shop manuals.

Basically, this test will be bypassing the regulator, so that a full 12V battery charge is applied to the alternator rotor winding. The voltage output to your battery should rise up significantly to as high as about 16V.
You should only run the engine like this just long enough to measure the voltage and then shut it down.

On the wire harness I supply with the External Regulator Kit, the wire colors are:
D+ (RED)
These connections are designated as D-: Ground, D+: Positive, and DF: Field.  This bypass is applied by unplugging the regulator harness at the regulator and jumpering the D+ (RED) to the DF (GREEN) harness pin (these are the wires going to the brush holder).   The remaining D- (BLACK) pin is already grounded to the alternator case as it should be.  If you are unsure, you may ground this circuit.

If you get a significant voltage rise (up to 16V) when bridging these two circuits, the alternator is charging pretty darn well and should normally be consider HEALTHY.

Internal Regulators
The same FULL FIELD TEST can be done with an internal type regulator setup by replacing the brush/regulator assembly with one that has been modified (regulator portion has been removed). An internal jumper needs to be placed between the D+ and DF pins. This could be made from an old bad internal regulator unit. Just make sure the brushes are still in good shape.

Replacing Worn Brushes on Regulators
The most common symptom of worn brushes on any regulator will be a drop in voltage while driving. It may be intermittent at first and you may notice the radio or other devices turning off or flickering.  This condition will eventually drain your battery and your car will stop running. If you check the battery when the engine is running, the voltage will be low, even as low as 10 or 11 volts.

If you ever remove your voltage regulator to inspect the brushes, they will generally be considered worn out if one or both of them protrude less than 5 mm from the housing.  Brushes on a new regulator will typically protrude 10 mm or more. 

Most people simply buy a new regulator and toss the old one, but kif you like, you can replace the brushes.
New replacement brushes can be obtained f
rom places like NAPA Auto Parts, PN ECH M407 or equivalent. Typical price: $5.00 to $7.00 for a set of two.

Here are some videos tutorials on REPLACING BRUSHES.


A good Brickboard discussion on Alternator Wear and Slip Rings:

But what if I think my alternator is bad?
You might check out the following for tips on diagnosing a bad alternator....


Do you suspect you might need a new battery or have you been experiencing dead or weak battery problems? 
Before going further, watch this video on battery testing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34RtUKHaZc8 
It walks you through testing a battery that has been suspected of weakness. You will be surprised to see the results and you'll find out why new battery conductance testers, that will test the battery Cranking Amps  (CA) or Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) capability can really help.  I bought one of these testers and now I even test a brand new battery to make sure it's putting out close to what it's supposed to.


On occasion I get questions from customers who ask about using an adjustable regulator for a marine alternator.  I don't know a lot about marine alternators, but I'm always happy to help if I can and I'm always willing to learn. So I will be adding relevant marine applications or topics here when I find them.  I hope this helps.

If you can help with this topic or have suggestions, please email.

James from Colorado provided the following link to his blog:  https://svhajime.wordpress.com/2019/04/03/adjustable-regulator-on-an-internally-regulated-alternator/
He had a sailing vessel with a Beta Marine diesel motor. He needed an alternator to produce a specific voltage range (13.6v) in order to optimally charge (not overcharge) his lithium iron phosphate LiFeP04 battery bank.  While he could have searched for an expensive computer controlled regulator, he wanted something simple.  He achieved it using one of the internal voltage regulators offered here. 


Here's an interesting article on the subject of automotive alternators and marine applications. 
Most people don't know that automotive alternators are designed to reduce output as ambient temperatures increase. This is designed into car alternators so that they can better survive high under-hood temperatures long enough to live past the initial warranty period.  Typical marine alternators are NOT designed this way
, since most marine engine rooms are not nearly as hot as a car. 

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