ADJUSTABLE VOLTAGE REGULATORS W O R L D W I D E S H I P P I N G ![]() |
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UPDATED: November 9, 2023 CONTACT SHIPPING VIEW CART |
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S E A R C H
D A V E ' S V O L V O P A
G E S B E L O W
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The parts in this page DO
NOT fit this type of INTERNAL FAN
alternator below:
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A Few Customer Comments:
"I
finally
have appropriate alternator output voltage. My car
has never had enough voltage from its charging
system. I installed your regulator, and was
thrilled by the results. My Autronic SM2 engine
management system is much happier. It idles
noticeably better now, and I expect longer battery life
as well. R.L., 1984 BMW 633 CSi/Dinan turbo/SM2 "Installed both regulators. First thing I noticed was that both cockpit voltmeters were off by about a volt or more. Knowing the voltage at the battery terminals is a great relief. Both regulators tuned to 14.5 volts and seem to working GREAT. Thanks for making these fabulous products available." '79 BMW R100RS motorcycle and '84 BMW 663CSi, J.M., Jacksonville, FL. "I wish I would have found this adjustable voltage regulator when I first got my 142 three years ago...It is awsome!!! I guess I didn't know how bad I needed it until I fried another alternator!!! Your site is on my favorites now, thanks for the good communication and quick shipping!!! Volvo 142, C.B., Denver, CO. "Just a quick note on how impressed I was with the external voltage regulator I installed on my 1987 Porsche 944 (non-turbo)..Super easy to install and the results are awesome..I was only getting about 13.4 volts out of the old BOSCH internal regulator and now am getting a constant 14.4 without any electric things running, and when I turned on the headlights, front euro fog lights and lower foglights and 800 watt amp for the subs I got an amazing 14.3 volts without any hesitation. I was looking for adjustable voltage regulators and found your website, I ordered 1 of each - external and internal.. noting that it would be difficult to adjust the voltage on the internal regulator I installed the external regulator set up. Before, with the old BOSCH regulator my car would run horribly with all the electric accessories running . . . . not anymore...WOW !!!! J.N., Phoenix, AZ. |
EXTERNAL
Adjustable Regulator Kits.
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Wiring and
Pinout Information:
This
EXTERNAL style regulator (B-Circuit Type) works especially well with cars
like the '81-'85 Volvo 240 Turbo, where the alternator
is low in the engine bay and on the exhaust side of the
engine. Access to the back of the alternator for
adjustments can be difficult (pretty much impossible
with a 240 Turbo). So getting a remote regulator makes
good sense. Also, if there is a hot exhaust
manifold or turbo close to the alternator in your car,
mounting a remote regulator a further distance away from
that heat will result in more consistent voltage
readings. Scroll
down to the installation tips to see a
demonstration of how I installed this kit in one of my
own Volvos.
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CUSTOMER COMMENTS FOR
EXTERNAL ADJUSTABLE REGULATOR KITS:
"I ordered an external adjustable voltage regulator from your website last Tuesday and it was waiting for me Thursday when I got home from work. 45 minutes later, I had my 100 Amp Bosch alternator and your voltage regulator setup in place making 14.2 volts at idle. This is on my '90 Volvo 244 turbo with a long history of killing batteries and voltage regulators, I imagine due to heat and the cheap voltage regulators on the rebuilt alternators I've been using. Anyway, this is something I should have done a long time ago. In thirteen years, I have never seen this car make more than 14 volts at idle under the very best of circumstances - and usually not for very long. It has been just under 1000 miles since the install and I'm still making 14.2 volts at idle on the nose. I've checked it hot and cold, before I start out and after a long day of mixed driving - even mid trip. 14.2 volts at idle. Nice. Great product, good quality, fast shipping and a great price. I've admired your services and products for a long time and you live up to your reputation, count me as a very satisfied customer." R.L., Bechtelsville, PA "The part worked great! Most noticeable difference was that my interior AC/heater fan that was either very weak or would get stuck, now functions properly. Other than that, it just seems to idle a little smoother. The only thing I had to adjust for was that the plastic of the new voltage regulator was slightly larger in size than the stock Porsche part, so I got out my dremel and a carbide cutter and it only took a few seconds to shave it down. After that, the screw holes lined up just fine. I've got it set at 14.3 volts with no accessories on, and it dips to 14.0 with lights, fan, AC, and radio going. I'm pleased with this part, and have let other 944 owners know it's worth it." D.M., Arcata, CA |
This item will fit all
Volvo 240/260 '75-'93, 740/760 '84-'92 with a Bosch
external fan alternator.
These regulators will also
fit MANY other Bosch external fan alternators, such as
in a Porsche, BMW, VW, Audi and many others.
This particular type fits those with 28mm slip
rings ONLY.
(A rare 32mm slip ring type is also available in an *Internal* Regulator below). Most external fan Bosch alternators have 28mm slip rings. Scroll down for EXTENSIVE Part
Number and Car Cross-References.
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External Adjustable Regulator Kit.
(B-Circuit Type) Available for most 28 mm slip ring type alternators. ![]()
IN STOCK - ORDER HERE
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External Voltage Regulator
(regulator only): |
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This regulator corresponds to the following Volvo Part Numbers:
This regulator corresponds to the following Bosch Part Numbers:
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Internal Adjustable
Regulator (A-Circuit Type) Available for 28 mm slip ring (this is the most common): IN STOCK. or 32 mm slip ring type (this type is pretty rare): 32 mm type is not normally stocked. Please email. ![]() ![]() This complete regulator/brush assembly (A-Circuit Type) can be installed in your alternator in place of your original Bosch or Bosch-type regulator. It's an all-in-one part and can be adjusted up to an approximate maximum of 14.9 volts. The VOLTAGE SETTING ADJUSTMENT on this regulator is done with a small flat screwdriver on the regulator: Turn CLOCKWISE to increase voltage. Turn COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to decrease voltage. MAXIMUM VOLTAGE RECOMMENDATION: I recommend setting a limit of about 14.4 to 14.5 volts measured at the battery at idle with no lights or accessories on. A typical adjustment range for this unit when a static bench test is performed is about 13.50 to 14.90 volts. This style seems to be preferred for most owners of Volvo 740/760 or 940/960 series cars where the alternator is mounted high in the engine bay and the back of the alternator is easily accessible for adjustment. This regulator will work in a 240 also, but access to the adjustment screw might be difficult since the alternator is mounted low and forward of the exhaust manifold. This regulator is not recommended for a 240 Turbo, since it will be very difficult to make adjustments. This regulator corresponds to the following Volvo Part Numbers: Additional part numbers for other makes CLICK HERE
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Internal
Voltage Regulator, NON-ADJUSTABLE.
14.8 volt set-point.
This internal
regulator can be
installed in your alternator in place of your original Bosch
or Bosch-type regulator.
Factory set for 14.8 volts
(standard non-adjustable regulators are usually set at 14.1
to 14.2 volts).
This item will fit all
Volvo 240/260 '75-'93, 740/760 '84-'92 with a Bosch
external fan alternator.
These regulators will also
fit MANY other Bosch external fan alternators, such as
in a Porsche, BMW, VW, Audi and many others.
This particular type fits those with 28mm slip rings ONLY. Most external fan Bosch alternators have 28mm slip rings. Scroll down for Part
Number and Car Cross-References or email Dave.
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Internal
Regulator, non-adjustable.
Fixed 14.8 volt set point. If you DON'T need an adjustable regulator, this will be the one you need. Fits 28 mm type slip ring only. These are factory set for 14.8 volts (higher than the standard 14.1 to 14.2 volt type). ![]()
This regulator corresponds to the following Volvo
Part Numbers:
Additional part numbers for other make CLICK HERE
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SEPARATE SHIPPING AVAILABLE HERE IF NEEDED
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Bosch
Alternator
-- External Fan Type
Alfa-Romeo
116100506011, 119130506000,
119130506023, 119136506000, 705684800000, Alfa Romeo 164 '91-'92, Milano
'88 using Bosch 0-120-488-102 28mm alternator,
Milano '89, Spider '86 using Bosch 0-120-489-903 or 904, 'Spider '90-'94
using Bosch 0-120-488-102 or 0-120-488-103
28mm alternator. 81-86 Alfa Romeo GTV-6, 81-89 Alfa Romeo Spider,
87-89 Alfa Romeo Milano using Bosch: 0-120-489-904, 0-120-489-715,
0-120-489-716, 0-120-489-903, 0-120-489-905, 0-120-489-906.P A R T N U M B E R S 28 mm Slip Rings 32 mm sling ring part numbers below (CLICK HERE) ALL 28mm External or Internal Adjustable Regulators listed for sale above will exchange correctly with all the Bosch-type Voltage Regulator Part Numbers and Bosch Alternator Part Numbers listed here. Much of this information was compiled with the help of customers who have verified the correct fitment of these regulators over more than 20 years. If you have a regulator or alternator part number that you think should fit, but does not match these numbers, or one that fits and I need to add it to this list, please email me. Audi 4000 84-87 1800cc, 4000 85-87 2200cc 5 Cyl, 5000 85-86 2000cc Diesel Turbo, 5000 84-86 2200cc 5 Cyl, 5000 Turbo 86-88 2226cc 5 Cyl, 5000 Turbo 86-88 2309cc 5 Cyl, 5000 Turbo Quattro 84-88 2226cc 5 Cyl, 5000 Turbo Quattro 86-88 2309cc 5 Cyl, 80/90 88-91 2000cc, Coupe 83-87 All 5 Cyl eng., Quattro 85-88 All 5 Cyl eng.: 025 903 023E, 026 903 015B, 034 903 015D, 034 903 803, 026 903 015F, 026 903 017, 026 903 017B, 026 903 017BX, 026 903 017X, 026 903 023, 034 903 015K, 034 903 015M, 034 903 016C, 035 903 017A, 035 903 017AU, 035 903 017AV, 035 903 017AX, 035 903 023B, 035 903 023D, 049 903 023P, 049 903 027, 049 903 027A, 049 903 027X, 068 903 017B, 068 903 017BX, 068 903 017P, 068 903 017PX, 068 903 018A, 068 903 018B, 068 903 029M, 068-903-803, 068 903 803D, 069 903 017A, 069 903 017AX, 069 903 023D, 069 903 023G, 069 903 023H, 070-903-017, 070-903-023B, 070-903-023BX, 070-903-023E, 176 903 027. BMW and Bosch PNs for BMW: 1711391, 1231-1271664, 1231-1279548, 1231-1711203, 1231-1713449, 1231-1713450, 1231-1714219, 1231-1714220, 1231-1721921, 1231-1721923, 1231-1722418, 1231-1722419, 1231-1726002, 1231-1726022, 1231-1726602, 1231-1726603, 1232-1271644, 1232-1711399. 320i '77-'83 with Bosch 0-120-489-039 and 0-120-489-040 alternator, 318i '84-'85 and '91-'92 with Bosch 0-120-469-617, 0-120-469-913, 0-120-469-914, 0-120-469-918 and 0-120-469-919 alternator, 325iX '88-'91 with Bosch 0-120-469-777, 0-120-469-778 and 0-120-469-779 alternator, 325e '84-'88 with Bosch 0-120-469-617 or 0-120-469-779 alternator, 325i E30 '87-'93 with Bosch 0-120-469-779, 0-120-469-985, or 0-120-468-105 alternator (NOT '92-'95 with Bosch 0-120-465-031 or 0-120-485-048 14mm alternator), 525i '89-'91 with Bosch 0-120-468-042, 0-120-468-043, 0-120-469-869, 0-120-469-912, 0-120-468-062 (opt 115A '91-'92), 0-120-468-064 (optional 140A '91-'92) alternator (NOT '92-'95 with Bosch 0-120-465-031 or 0-120-485-048 14mm alternator), 528e '82-'88 with Bosch 0-120-489-031, 0-120-469-617 and 0-120-469-778 alternator, 528i '79-'81 with Bosch 0-120-489-037 alternator, 530i '75 with Bosch 0-120-400-771 alternator, 535i '85-'93 with Bosch 0-120-468-007, 0-120-468-008, 0-120-469-775, 0-120-469-776, 0-120-468-096, 0-120-468-098 alternator, 633 CSi '78-'81 with Bosch 0-120-489-037 alternator, 635 CSi '79-'89, 733i '78-'81 with Bosch 0-120-489-037 alternator (lacking info on later 733 and early 735), 735i '87-'92 with Bosch 0-120-468-007, 0-120-468-008, 0-120-468-013, 0-120-469-775, 0-120-469-776, 0-120-468-096 and 0-120-468-098 alternator, 750i '88-'94 with Bosch 0-120-468-030, 0-120-468-033 and 0-120-339-547 alternator, 850 Ci/CSi '93-'95 with Bosch 0-120-468-033, 0-120-339-547 alternator, M3 E30 '87-'91 with Bosch 0-120-469-804, 0-120-469-805 alternator, M5 E28 '87-'88 (it will fit, but I'm lacking specific PNs), M5 E34 '91-'93 with Bosch 0-120-468-073, 0-120-468-074, 0-120-468-050, 0-120-468-051 and 0-120-468-067 alternator. BOSCH part numbers that fit or correspond to this 28 mm slip ring regulator (Alternator and regulator numbers below. Not a 100% complete list): AL27X, AL29X, AL30X, AL31X, AL32X, AL33X, AL34X, AL35X, AL36X, AL40X, AL42X, AL45X, AL46X, AL49X, AL54X, AL57X, AL58X, AL65X, AL80X, AL117X, AL 124X, AL129X, AL140X, AL148X, AL170X, AL173X, AL0152X, 0-120-400-756, 0-120-400-757, 0-120-400-858, 0-120-409-918, 0-120-450-001, 0-120-450-002, 0-120-468-001, 0-120-468-002, 0-120-468-003, 0-120-468-006, 0-120-468-009, 0-120-468-010, 0-120-468-070; 0-120-469-002, 0-120-469-003, 0-120-469-012, 0-120-469-015, 0-120-469-541, 0-120-469-542, 0-120-469-545, 0-120-469-546, 0-120-469-551, 0-120-469-552, 0-120-469-553, 0-120-469-554, 0-120-469-556, 0-120-469-558, 0-120-469-559, 0-120-469-560, 0-120-469-561, 0-120-469-563, 0-120-469-564, 0-120-469-566, 0-120-469-575, 0-120-469-576, 0-120-469-577, 0-120-469-578, 0-120-469-581, 0-120-469-582, 0-120-469-586, 0-120-469-587, 0-120-469-593, 0-120-469-594, 0-120-469-595, 0-120-469-598, 0-120-469-599, 0-120-469-600, 0-120-469-602, 0-120-469-603, 0-120-469-604, 0-120-469-605, 0-120-469-606, 0-120-469-607, 0-120-469-610, 0-120-469-617, 0-120-469-618, 0-120-469-619, 0-120-469-621, 0-120-469-622, 0-120-469-623, 0-120-469-624, 0-120-469-631, 0-120-469-632, 0-120-469-633, 0-120-469-635, 0-120-469-636, 0-120-469-637, 0-120-469-638, 0-120-469-639, 0-120-469-640, 0-120-469-648, 0-120-469-649, 0-120-469-650, 0-120-469-651, 0-120-469-654, 0-120-469-666, 0-120-469-670, 0-120-469-671, 0-120-469-674, 0-120-469-675, 0-120-469-677, 0-120-469-680, 0-120-469-689, 0-120-469-690, 0-120-469-696, 0-120-469-697, 0-120-469-698, 0-120-469-699, 0-120-469-700, 0-120-469-701, 0-120-469-702, 0-120-469-703, 0-120-469-704, 0-120-469-705, 0-120-469-706, 0-120-469-707, 0-120-469-708, 0-120-469-710, 0-120-469-711, 0-120-469-712, 0-120-469-714, 0-120-469-715, 0-120-469-716, 0-120-469-717, 0-120-469-718, 0-120-469-719, 0-120-469-720, 0-120-469-721, 0-120-469-727, 0-120-469-728, 0-120-469-729, 0-120-469-732, 0-120-469-733, 0-120-469-734, 0-120-469-735, 0-120-469-737, 0-120-469-739, 0-120-469-740, 0-120-469-741, 0-120-469-742, 0-120-469-743, 0-120-469-754, 0-120-469-757, 0-120-469-758, 0-120-469-759, 0-120-469-768, 0-120-469-775, 0-120-469-776, 0-120-469-778, 0-120-469-780, 0-120-469-782, 0-120-469-783, 0-120-469-784, 0 120 469 785, 0 120 469 786, 0 120 469 787, 0-120-469-790, 0 120 469 793, 0-120-469-794, 0-120-469-795, 0-120-469-804, 0-120-469-805, 0-120-469-806, 0-120-469-816, 0-120-469-817, 0-120-469-818, 0-120-469-819, 0-120-469-820, 0-120-469-821, 0-120-469-822, 0-120-469-823, 0-120-469-828, 0-120-469-830, 0-120-469-831, 0-120-469-832, 0-120-469-834, 0-120-469-835, 0-120-469-836, 0-120-469-839, 0-120-469-845, 0-120-469-846, 0-120-469-862, 0-120-469-863, 0-120-469-864, 0-120-469-865, 0-120-469-868, 0-120-469-869, 0-120-469-876, 0-120-469-877, 0-120-469-878, 0-120-469-879, 0-120-469-885, 0-120-469-886, 0-120-469-887, 0-120-469-888, 0-120-469-901, 0-120-469-902, 0-120-469-903, 0-120-469-904, 0-120-469-906, 0-120-469-907, 0-120-469-908, 0-120-469-913, 0-120-469-914, 0-120-469-918, 0-120-469-919, 0-120-469-967, 0-120-469-971, 0-120-469-972, 0-120-469-975, 0 120 469 992, 0 120 469 993, 0 120 469 998, 0-120-484-012; 0-120-488-114, 0-120-488-126, 0-120-488-152, 0-120-488-183, 0-120-488-184, 0-120-488-219, 0-120-488-220, 0-120-488-221, 0-120-488-238, 0-120-488-245, 0-120-488-246, 0-120-488-247, 0-120-488-249, 0-120-488-254, 0-120-488-263, 0-120-488-264, 0-120-488-265, 0-120-488-279, 0-120-488-280, 0-120-488-976, 0-120-488-993; 0-120-489-002, 0-120-489-003, 0-120-489-004, 0-120-489-005, 0-120-489-006, 0-120-489-007, 0-120-489-008, 0-120-489-009, 0-120-489-010, 0-120-489-011, 0-120-489-012, 0-120-489-013, 0-120-489-014, 0-120-489-015, 0-120-489-016, 0-120-489-017, 0-120-489-028, 0-120-489-029, 0-120-489-030, 0-120-489-031, 0-120-489-036, 0-120-489-037, 0-120-489-038, 0-120-489-039, 0-120-489-040, 0-120-489-041, 0-120-489-042, 0-120-489-043, 0-120-489-044, 0-120-489-045, 0-120-489-046, 0-120-489-057, 0-120-489-058, 0-120-489-062, 0-120-489-063, 0-120-489-069, 0-120-489-070, 0-120-489-076, 0-120-489-077, 0-120-489-080, 0-120-489-081, 0-120-489-082, 0-120-489-083, 0-120-489-093, 0-120-489-094, 0-120-489-107, 0-120-489-108, 0-120-489-109, 0-120-489-110, 0-120-489-111, 0-120-489-112, 0-120-489-113, 0-120-489-114, 0-120-489-115, 0-120-489-116, 0-120-489-117, 0-120-489-120, 0-120-489-121, 0-120-489-122, 0-120-489-128, 0-120-489-129, 0-120-489-130, 0-120-489-131, 0-120-489-133, 0-120-489-134, 0-120-489-137, 0-120-489-138, 0-120-489-139, 0-120-489-141, 0-120-489-142, 0-120-489-143, 0-120-489-144, 0-120-489-152, 0-120-489-153, 0-120-489-154, 0-120-489-167, 0-120-489-170, 0-120-489-171, 0-120-489-183, 0-120-489-186, 0-120-489-191, 0-120-489-195, 0-120-489-196, 0-120-489-197, 0-120-489-198, 0-120-489-199, 0-120-489-200, 0-120-489-201, 0-120-489-202, 0-120-489-203, 0-120-489-204, 0-120-489-205, 0-120-489-206, 0-120-489-207, 0-120-489-208, 0-120-489-209, 0-120-489-210, 0-120-489-211, 0-120-489-215, 0-120-489-217, 0-120-489-218, 0-120-489-220, 0-120-489-228, 0-120-489-229, 0-120-489-235, 0-120-489-236, 0-120-489-237, 0-120-489-238, 0-120-489-239, 0-120-489-246, 0-120-489-247, 0-120-489-248, 0-120-489-249, 0-120-489-250, 0-120-489-260, 0-120-489-261, 0-120-489-262, 0-120-489-282, 0-120-489-283, 0-120-489-286, 0-120-489-296, 0-120-489-308, 0-120-489-323, 0-120-489-324, 0-120-489-325, 0-120-489-326, 0-120-489-327, 0-120-489-328, 0-120-489-329, 0-120-489-330, 0-120-489-331, 0-120-489-332, 0-120-489-333, 0-120-489-338, 0-120-489-349, 0-120-489-351, 0-120-489-352, 0-120-489-353, 0-120-489-362, 0-120-489-364, 0-120-489-365, 0-120-489-366, 0-120-489-367, 0-120-489-368, 0-120-489-369, 0-120-489-370, 0-120-489-371, 0-120-489-372, 0-120-489-373, 0-120-489-380, 0-120-489-381, 0-120-489-385, 0-120-489-386, 0-120-489-401, 0-120-489-403, 0-120-489-418, 0-120-489-419, 0-120-489-420, 0-120-489-421, 0-120-489-422, 0-120-489-423, 0-120-489-432, 0-120-489-433, 0-120-489-434, 0-120-489-436, 0-120-489-437, 0-120-489-438, 0-120-489-474, 0-120-489-486, 0-120-489-487, 0-120-489-489, 0-120-489-493, 0-120-489-494, 0-120-489-549, 0-120-489-715 0-120-489-748, 0-120-489-823, 0-120-498-826, 0-120-489-834, 0-120-489-835, 0-120-489-903, 0-120-489-904, 0-120-489-909, 0-120-489-549, 0-120-489-550, 0-120-489-910, 0-120-489-913, 0-120-489-914, 0-120-489-960, 0-120-489-961, 0-120-489-963, 0-120-489-964, 0-120-489-965, 0-120-489-966, 0-120-489-967, 0-120-489-968, 0-120-489-969, 0-120-489-976, 0-120-489-980, 0-120-489-981, 0-120-489-982, 0-120-489-983, 0-120-489-986, 0-120-489-987, 0-120-489-988, 0-120-489-990, 0-120-489-991, 0-120-489-992, 0-120-489-993; 0-886-031-501, 0 986 043 177, 1-192-052-015, 1-192-052-016, 1-192-052-020, 1-192-052-021, 1-192-052-024, 1-192-052-025, 1-192-052-027, 1-192-052-029, 1-197-311-003, 1-197-311-004, 1-197-311-005, 1-197-311-006, 1-197-311-007, 1-197-311-008, 1-197-311-009, 1-197-311-010, 1-197-311-011, 1-197-311-012, 1-197-311-013, 1-197-311-018, 1-197-311-021, 1-197-311-022, 1-197-311-023, 1-197-311-026, 1-197-311-027, 1-197-311-028, 1-197-311-035, 1-197-311-038, 1-197-311-039, 1-197-311-040, 1-197-311-050, 1-197-311-090, 1-197-311-800, 9-120-080-129, 9-120-143-036; 9-120-144-205, 9-120-144-206, 9-120-144-207, 9-120-144-216, 9-120-144-217, 9-120-144-237, 9-120-144-281, 9-120-144-282, 9-120-144-290, 9-120-144-292, 9-120-144-301, 9-120-144-305, 9-120-144-600, 9-120-144-601, 9-120-144-602, 9-120-144-603, 9-120-144-604, 9-120-144-608, 9-120-144-609, 9-120-144-612, 9-120-144-615, 9-120-144-616, 9-120-144-619, 9-120-144-620; 9-120-334-324, 9-127-041-109, 9-127 041 110, 9-127-041-200, 9-191-337-303, Deutz-Allis 93155548 Fendt X830060022010 Ford 86GB-10316AA, 82BB-10316-AA, E5RD-10316-BA Fiat 60751135, 60751403, 60751439, 9938171, 9942848, 9942885, 99428884, 9950155, 9960176, Fiat 128 '72-'74 using Bosch 0-120-300-559 or 0-120-300-568 28mm alternator, X1/9 '74 using Bosch 0-120-300-559 or 0-120-300-568 28mm alternator, 1980 124 2000cc with fuel injection and Bosch 0-120-489-823 28mm alternator, Bertone '83-'84 using Bosch 0-120-489-072 28mm alternator, GM 90349704, 90349907 IHC 1530372C1 KHD 81211111 Lancia Beta '74 using Bosch 0-120-300-559 or 0-120-300-568 28mm alternator, Lester 13023, 13056, 13119, 13122, 13129, 13153, 13154, 13156, 13235, 13243, 13244, 13281, 13291, 13363, 13367, 13379, 13603, 13604, 13607, 13707, 14059, 14392, 14412, 14418, 14420, 14421, 14595, 14603, 14783, 14784, 14785, 14791, 14802, 14820, 14824, 14833, 14876, 14964, 14965, 14966 Lucas 21221349, UCB403 Mercedes Benz 002-154-4106, 002-154-5106, 002-154-7206, 002-154-7906, 007-154-48-02, 007-154-51-02, 007-154-52-02, 007-154-53-02, 007-154-54-02, 007-154-55-02, 007-154-56-02, 007-154-57-02, 007-154-58-02, 007-154-60-02, 007-154-61-02, 008-154-20-02, 008-154-87-02, Mercedes 190D '84-'89, 240D 2.4L 1974 (early '74 55A alternator with external reg), 240D 2.4L '74-'83 (late '74 and later 55A with internal reg), 280 and 280C and S 2.8L '73-'76, 280CE and E and SE 2.8L '77-'81, 300D and SD and TD 3.0L '78-'81, 450SE and SEL '73-'80. Opel 1204256, 1204259, 1204253, 90007041 PARIS RHONE A13V02, A13V05, A13V07 Porsche 0 190 601 006, 0 192 052 006, 1 197 311 090 (1976-77 930 with SEV alt - external reg fits), 944 603 14100, 944 603 14101 (1983-91 944), 928-603-142-00 (1992-95 968), 928-603-153-00, (there are lots of other Porsche applications that are not listed for Bosch internal regulator, external fan alternators). Some other Porsche fitments: 1989-98 911 with Bosch alt, 1976 912 with Bosch alt - external reg fits also, 1970-76 914 with Bosch alt - external reg fits also, 1977-79 924 with Bosch alt, 1986-88 924 with Bosch alt, 1983-91 944 with Bosch alt, 1978-82 928 with Bosch alt, 1985-95 928 with Bosch alt (NOT Paris Rhone or Valeo alt), 1992-95 968 with Bosch alt. Saab 8571846, 8590549, Saab 99 '73-'80 with Bosch 0-120-400-922 and 0-120-489-881 alternator (not models with SEV alternator), 900 Turbo and non-turbo '79-'94 with Bosch 0-120-468-067, 0-120-489-881, 0-120-469-683, 0-001-311-108, 0-120-489-253, 0-120-469-611, 0-120-469-682 alternator (not '94 and later with the newer internal fan alternator), 9000 '87-'94 with Bosch 0-120-468-035, 0-120-468-045, 0-120-469-682, 0-120-469-684, 0-120-469-881 alternator. Volvo 240 ALL 1976-1993, 740 ALL 1985+ with any external fan alternator. Specific Part Numbers: 1235887 1979-84 240/260, 1257294-7, 1258994-1, 1258995 1979-84 240/260, 1269124-2, 1269702-5, 1323351-5, 1323488-5, 1323912-4, 1324142-7, 1324617, 1324957-8, 134850, 1348507-3, 1348508, 1363493 1985+ 240 55amp, 1363496-9, 1363497, 1363497-7, 1363511, 1363511-5, 1398327-5, 1416009, 241735, 244332, 269479-2, 269629-0, 3523710, 3544497, 3544497-5, 5001961-1, 5002730-9, 5003643-3, 5003644, 5003644-1, 5003665-6, 5003804, 5003804-1 Volkswagen I get a lot of questions about VW applications. Hopefully this will help, but feel free to ask if you don't see yours. Cabriolet 84-93 1800cc, Corrado 1800cc 89-92, Fox 87-93 1800cc, Golf 85-92 1800cc, Jetta 83-84 1715cc and 1780cc, Jetta 85-92 1800cc, Golf or Jetta 1600 diesel 85-86, Jetta 1600 diesel 89-92, Passat 1800cc 91-92, Quantum 85-85 1800cc, Scirocco 83-84 1780cc, Scirocco 85-88 1800cc, Vanagon aircooled 80-82, Vanagon watercooled 83-84 1913cc, Vanagon 1913cc 89, Vanagon 86-92 2100cc**, AL30X, AL32X, AL173X, 021 903 023E, 025 903 023D, 025 903 023DX, 026 903 015, 026 903 015A, 026 903 015AX, 026 903 015D, 034 903 803, 37 903 018A, 037 903 023A, 037 903 023P, 068 903 017L, 068 903 017LX, 068 903 017N, 068 903 017NX, 068 903 017Q, 068 903 018, 068 903 018X, 068 903 029C, 068 903 029E, 068 903 029Q, 068 903 029QX, 068 903 033E, 069 903 023F, 068-903-803, 068 903 803D, 070-903-017, 070-903-023B, 070-903-023BX, 070-903-023E, 176 903 029.
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Bosch Alternator -- External Fan Type P A R T N U M B E R S 32 mm Slip Rings Much of this information was compiled with the help of customers who have verified the correct fitment of these regulators over more than 20 years. If you have a regulator or alternator part number that you think should fit, but does not match these numbers, or one that fits and I need to add it to this list, please email me. A 32mm Slip Ring Alternator is pretty uncommon. 32mm types will not interchange well with a 28mm type. These Voltage Regulator Part Numbers are for 32mm applications. Alfa Romeo GT V6 '81-'86, Milano '86-'87, Milano '88 using Bosch 0-120-489-716 32mm alternator, Spider '81-'89 using Bosch 0-120-489-716 32mm alternator, Bosch 0 120 489 653, 0 120 489 654, 0 120 489 657, 0 120 489 659, 0 120 489 735, 0 120 489 759, 0 120 489 760, Letrika Old IA 0606, Saab 85-57-449 Audi/Volkswagen 028-903-803A, 035-903-015, 046-903-015A, 046-903-017A, 049-903-015C, 049-903-015T, 049-903-023C049-903-803B, 049-903-803E, 049-903-803F, 052-903-803, 059-903-803, 059-903-803B, 059-903-803C, 063-903-803, 070-903-803A BMW 1231 1286 073, 530i '76-'78 with Bosch 0-120-489-650 32mm alternator, 630 CSi '77 with Bosch 0-120-489-621 32mm alternator, Bosch part numbers AL113X, 0-120-489-080, 0-120-489-653, 0-120-489-654, 0-120-489-657, 0-120-489-659, 0-120-489-735, 0-120-489-759, 0-120-489-760, 0-192-052-001, 0-192-052-002, 0-192-052-004, 0-192-052-005, 0-192-052-006, 0-192-052-008, 0-192-052-011, 0-192-052-012, 0-192-052-013, 0-192-052-014, 0-192-052-017, 0-192-052-018, 0-192-052-019, 0-192-052-022, 0-192-052-024, 0-192-052-025, 0-192-052-026, 0-192-052-028, 0-192-052-031, 1-197-311-000, 1-197-311-001, 1-197-311-002 Delco 90009353 Fiat 4 474 755, 4 475 296, 4 731 653, 9 927 829, 9 933 186, 9 934 791, 82 302 913, Fiat 124 '76-'78 (and Fiat 131 '78) using Bosch 0-120-489-641 32mm alternator, Brava or Spider '79-'82 using Bosch 0-120-489-823, 0-120-489-824 or 0-120-489-641 32mm alternator, Pininfarina '83-'84 using Bosch 0-120-489-823 or 0-120-489-824 32mm alternator, Strada and X1/9 '81-'82 using Bosch 0-120-489-875 or 0-120-489-943 32mm alternator, Ford 1477502, 71BB-10316-AA GM 90009353 Iskra 10-120-110, 11-125-003, 11-125-040, 11-125-049, 11-125-073, 11-125-117, 11-125-121, NRE121301, AER7201, AER1503, AER7207, AER1527 Lancia Beta '75-'82 using Bosch 0-120-489-743 or 0-120-489-877 32mm alternator, Zagato '79-'82 using Bosch 0-120-489-743 or 0-120-489-877 32mm alternator, Lucas 01221 152, 21221 347, 21221 373, 21931 009, UCB400 Magirus-Deutz 4 248 4638 Magneti-Marelli 648-080-10, 648-080-11, 648-080-12, 648-081-09, RTT110A, RTT110AB, RTT110ABT Mercedes Benz 002-154-0606, 002-154-1806, 002-154-2506, 002-154-5806 Opel 1204244, 1204252 Porsche Some 1980-82 924 with Bosch alt, 1983-84 928 with Bosch alt Saab 85-57-449 Valeo 505-055, NB411 Volkswagen Scirocco 1981 with 65A alternator 32mm slipring, VW PN 049-903-015, AL116X. |
Since some Bosch
alternators sometimes produce LESS VOLTAGE at idle than
with an elevated RPM above idle, you might find it harder to adjust your
voltage output set-point consistently, depending on your idle speed.
In these cases, you might try doing voltage tests
with the engine idle increased slightly to around 1000 rpm, where voltage output should be more stable. |
Here's a photo of an Internal
Adjustable Voltage Regulator in a typical Bosch
IR/EF (Internal Regulator/External Fan) alternator from
a Volvo 740 GLE. Installation of a regulator is easier in most
cars if the alternator is removed. The voltage
adjusting screw can be seen in the back of this
adjustable regulator.
![]() If replacement screws are needed to mount a voltage regulator or a brushholder, the typical size screw needed is M4-0.7 x 13 Philips head. |
<<< In this photo, you can see the internal voltage regulator attached to the back of the alternator. It's the black box thing. It's attached by two screws. If you are working on a 240 Turbo, I recommend that you remove the alternator, since it will be very hard to get in behind it while it's still mounted in place. Before this installation, I checked the no-load (COLD) voltage at the battery (engine running at idle) and found it to be 13.7 volts. This was pretty much average for a small Bosch alternator in an old Volvo like this.The first order of business when installing this item: disconnect the negative side of your battery. You will be playing near the big red 12 volt positive cable on the rear of your alternator and you don't want any surprise ZAPS to occur. For BEST access to the rear of the alternator
in a Volvo 240, you should remove the alternator from the car.
If you have a car with the alternator in a better
position where you have lots of room to work behind it,
such as a Volvo 740, then it will be easier to install while
the alternator remains in the car. If you are not confident in your abilities with this type of installation, I recommend you have someone with experience help or have a professional install it for you. It's possible to permanently damage the regulator when installing if you don't know what you're doing (click here to see damage photo near bottom of page). The brushes are fragile and will BREAK if much force is placed on them during installation.
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NOTE: During these procedures it is best not to
handle the brushes with your greasy hands as you can
contaminate them and reduce their efficiency.
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IMPORTANT: I do not
recommend adjusting this regulator at all without accurately
knowing the final voltage. You should use a real
voltage meter hooked up at the battery to see what you
are setting it at. Please don't rely on your
in-dash volt gauge, unless you have verified its
accuracy. They are not always
accurate. Do yourself a favor and buy an
inexpensive digital meter to accurately measure your
voltage at the battery. NOTE: When
installing a new part like this, it's common to find
it making lower voltage on the first start-up.
The brushes are there to make electrical contact
with the slip rings inside your alternator.
Sometimes is takes running the car for a few minutes before those contacts wear in and begin working correctly. Scroll down to the "Failure to Charge" section for more info on this. |
Here a video showing a typical replacement of a Bosch style voltage regulator. This video also includes shows how crusty those old SLIP RINGS can get and how it can help to clean them up before installing the new regulator. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhAAIY5TLLI |
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MOUNTING AN EXTERNAL REGULATOR CAUTION:
I
do not recommend mounting this regulator along a
FENDER EDGE or below a HOOD GAP
or mounted with the Adjuster Trim-Pot facing UP. It turns out that rain (or water when washing your car) can pour through the spaces between the hood and fender and if the regulator is mounted near that location, it will be repeatedly soaked with water. These regulators are supposedly potted and waterproof, however I have found that corrosion in the trim-pot or in the plug contacts can begin when this occurs repeatedly. Corrosion can eventually interfere with the signals to and from the regulator or it might eventually damage the trim-pot. A typical symptom of corrosion on your contacts will be unwanted fluctuating voltage. Try to find a mounting location the will be less likely of a waterfall and try to NOT mount it with the trim-pot and contacts facing UP. |
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MOUNTING AN EXTERNAL BRUSH HOLDER![]() Since in many cases when mounting an external style brushholder, you'll be adding something not originally designed for your alternator. So you may find that the center bearing cup on the back may interfere with installing the top of brushholder. ![]() If this happens, a simple solution is to grind a small amount of plastic off of the brushholder top as shown above. Just be careful to not damage the brushes. ![]() It can be helpful to have a good understanding of what connects to the alternator with a brushholder. When installing it, please take note of the D+ contact and the D- contacts on the side that goes into your alternator. These contacts must correctly connect with your alternator. The D+ contact makes contact with an inner part of the alternator as the brushholder is inserted. This contact transfers positive voltage output from the alternator to the brushholder, so the regulator can see what that voltage is. The D- contacts will make contact with the alternator case when it's bolted down. ![]() Do not place anything between these D- contacts and the alternator case, which might keep them from a good connection. If you ever find a GASKET, like shown above, remove it and toss it in the trash. Also if your alternator has any paint or powder-coating on it, that coating should be removed where these connections touch the alternator case. |
FAILURE TO CHARGE ISSUES |
The
very first thing I can recommend if you are
having charge issues or low voltage, check
your ground cables at the alternator and
battery. I have seen people forget to
reconnect alternator grounds and I have
experienced broken and loose ground cables
before. They can drive you nuts.
Often it's a simplest things when problems
like this come up.
GENERAL PRELIMINARY TESTING This is found in the following Turbobricks thread: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?p=5953929#post5953929 Is your DASH WARNING LIGHT working? See more info about the dash light HERE. Get a multi-meter that can read AC and DC voltage. Check the alternator belt, and belt tension mechanism. Alternators with slipping or loose belts won't charge correctly.
Test 1: Voltage Regulator / Diode Pack Test
With your car running, place the multi-meter set to AC VOLTAGE with leads across the battery terminals. Reading should be very small. If more than +-0.5V RMS AC voltage, you have faulty diodes, and either the voltage regulator or internal rectifier of the alternator needs to be replaced. Test 2: Positive Battery Cable Resistance Test With your car running (it's ideal to place your test probes before starting the car to avoid sticking your hands in the belts, etc.) and multi-meter set to DC VOLTAGE, place one probe on the B+ terminal of the alternator, and place the other multi-meter probe on the positive battery terminal. You may need wire extensions to reach both. Any voltage reading greater than 0.3V should cause concern. Anything less than 0.1V is ideal. If 0.3V or greater is measured, repeat this test between battery positive and starter positive, and again between starter positive and alternator B+ to narrow down the faulty high-resistance cable. Test 3: Alternator Rectifier Resistance Test With your car running and multi-meter set to DC VOLTAGE, place test probes on the D+ and B+ terminals on the back of the alternator. Any reading greater than 0.1V is cause for concern. A measurement less than 0.1V DC is ideal. If the reading is greater than 0.1V, the alternator has a faulty rectifier (which cannot be easily replaced by the average DIY'er), and the alternator should either be taken to an alternator repair shop or replaced entirely. Test 4: Alternator Ground Resistance Test With your car running, and multi-meter set to DC VOLTAGE, place one test probe on the negative battery terminal, on place the other on the aluminum body of the alternator. Be sure to use the sharp point of the electrode to dig into the aluminum body of the alternator because the surface will be oxidized and not very conductive, and may give a false reading. Any measurement greater than 0.3V is cause for concern. Measurements less than 0.1V are ideal. If more than 0.3V is observed, repeat the test, this time from the negative battery terminal to a bare piece of metal on the car (engine ground cable is a good one). If more than 0.3V is observed here, your negative battery cable is bad. Repeat the test also for the alternator aluminum body to engine metal. If more than 0.1-0.2V is observed, replace the alternator ground wire (short and small wire from body to engine). If all the tests are passed, but issues still follow, the issue lies somewhere more obscure. Most alternator/charging failures can be diagnosed with the above preliminary tests. |
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REVERSING POLARITY MAY BE NEEDED NOTE TO VW Vanagon Owners: Feedback from VW owners strongly suggests this procedure should ALWAYS be done when installing an EXTERNAL style regulator for the first time in a VW. |
If you are converting from an INTERNAL regulator to an
EXTERNAL regulator, in some cases the alternator
will need to have the Field Flashed.
This is because the POLARITY of the brushes for an EXTERNAL regulator is REVERSED compared to an INTERNAL regulator. This means direction of current through the brushes and alternator rotor is reversed. The alternator doesn't care. It will work the same in either direction. ![]() |
What is an A Circuit or B Circuit? An "A"
Circuit type voltage regulator means FULL POWER (+) is connected to a brush (designated D+) while the
voltage regulator controls the output by varying the GROUND SIGNAL (-) to the other brush (DF). Bosch external fan alternators using INTERNAL VOLTAGE REGULATORS use "A" Circuit.
Bosch external fan alternators using EXTERNAL VOLTAGE REGULATORS use "B" Circuit.
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WHY FLASHING THE FIELD BECOMES NEEDED In any alternator, the rotor has a set magnetic field. One pole is POSITIVE and the other is NEGATIVE. In most cases, when starting the engine for the first time after converting to an EXTERNAL regulator, the magnetic field will reverse on its own and your alternator will begin charging just fine. But on occasion the current required to do this isn't strong enough to overcome the existing magnetic field that has been set in place for years. Flashing the Field quickly reverses the polarity. It isn't all that mysterious. Alternator rebuilding shops do this routinely to fresh rebuilds on a regular basis. HOW TO PERFORM THIS PROCEDURE Flashing the Field in your Bosch alternator can be done in a few small steps. Disconnect the three wires from the installed brush assembly (or disconnected the wires from the regulator). Then, using a length of wire, momentarily touch 12+ volts to the DF spade on the brush assembly (or if you can't reach the brush assembly, touch the 12+ volts to the other end of the Green DF wire while it's connected to the DF spade on the installed brush assembly). This can be 12 volts directly from your battery using any piece of wire or even using the green wire in the harness provided with the kit. Please note the car should NOT be running when doing this, but the alternator does need to be fully installed and properly grounded. After this procedure, reconnect the regulator harness and start the car. |
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Here's a video below that shows an alternator with excessively worn brushes.
You have a high-mileage
alternator (this usually means it's pretty
well WORN). I have seen this
occur several times on my own installations and
several customers have experienced it. After
installing a new brush assembly or regulator, it was
found to not be charging during the first time
starting the engine. It can be quite puzzling
and you may begin thinking initially you have a faulty
regulator. A classic symptom is having good
battery voltage, maybe 12.3 to 12.6 volts with the
engine OFF, and having LESS voltage at the battery
with the engine running. In this situation,
turning the adjusting screw on the regulator will have
no effect.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSRcm4zDR_Q If you have a failure after replacing parts, the obvious things to check will be your connections at the rear of the alternator. 1. The BIG RED CABLE is the main power cable. It goes to the starter motor and then to the battery. 2. The SMALL RED WIRE completes the Battery Warning Light Circuit (light on your dash) and if it is not connected properly the alternator may not charge. You will know this circuit is complete if you see the Battery Light ON when the ignition key is turned to the 'ON' position with engine still OFF. 3. There is a GROUND cable that is attached to the alternator case (usually a small stud with an 8 mm head nut). The other end will be connected to the engine or alternator bracket. If this ground is not complete, the alternator will definitely not charge. Also, if you have an external regulator, check the 3-pole connections at the brush assembley and at the regulator. It is possible that one of the wire terminal inserts in the plug became dislodged when the plug was pushed on. It happens.
If the above connections are
good, and still you aren't charging, it is possible
there is a less than optimum contact between the NEW
brushes and your OLD alternator slip rings.
When I first discovered this I was quite puzzled, but as it turned out the friction end of the brushes just needed some time to wear in to establish good electrical connections with the old, worn slip rings. So it would seem one cure would be to continue running the engine until the voltage regulator starts working... the theory being that once a good electrical connection is established the voltage should come up. This has worked for some customers.
CLEANING UP THOSE SLIP RINGS
Here's the
experience of one customer:"I took the new brushes out when there was no charge and noticed the contact spot was real small. It is possible that they need to take the shape of the slip ring and make full contact before a charge appears, at least that is how it looks. Usually with stock regulators it takes a few seconds for the warning light to go out. This time it took several tries, and the purchase of an unnecessary new regulator and five minutes of determined revving at high rpm to get it working. However, overall, I am greatly happy with this setup, my battery used to discharge all the time. Just from running fog lights and a radio I had only 11 volts on board. Now I have it set at 13.8v without load and it gives me 12.8v with radio and fog lights. I would also strongly recommend everyone to install a Voltmeter in addition to this setup." R.B., (VW Vanagon) Sherman Oaks, CA Here are some suggestions to follow during installation in well used alternators to help avoid the above condition: Once you remove the old regulator use some fairly fine sand paper to clean (or "de-glaze") the slip rings. You can do this by spinning the alternator pulley by hand while reaching in the back of the alternator with the sand paper. I have been told by experts that it's recommended to use GARNET paper only (the orange stuff). This is because crocus cloth, emery cloth and silicon carbide papers can eventually damage the slip rings. With crocus cloth and emery cloth, the abrasive material is metallic in origin. It can flake off the paper and get down inside the alternator and can cause internal shorts. With the silicon carbide paper you can develop a contamination problem; the silicon can bond with the carbon in the brushes and cause greatly increased brush wear. Once your slip rings are clean, you can then pre-seat your brushes if you like (not required, but a good thing to do if you can). Wrap some Garnet paper (200 grit or higher) around a small cylinder around or near 28 mm in diameter and use it as a tool to slowly wear the appropriate arc into the brushes. This will help them to seat faster, preventing sparking, poor wear and it will increase the life of the brushes. Fluctuating Voltage at Idle.
If you have installed an External Voltage Regulator Kit and you later find you're getting fluctuating
voltage, the problem is often a poor connection (a connection with high resistance). First
check the contact points and terminals on the
regulator and also the brush assembly for any signs of
CORROSION.
Then clean the contacts and re-plug in and try again. If
you find any corrosion on the external regulator spades, you
might reconsider where you mounted it.
I do not recommend
mounting a regulator along the inner fender below a
hood gap or anywhere that might get frequent water dousing from rain or
washing. Water
freely runs between the hood and fender
and will repeatedly douse your regulator if it's below
that gap. Even thought regulators are fully potted and supposedly
waterproof, moisture is known for
creating corrosion on electrical contacts and such
corrosion will interfere.
Also, it would probably be a good idea to put a little Anti-Corrosion Electrical Paste on these contacts, especially if you live in a place where things get wet alot. Read more about that HERE. |
Lights Pulsing or "Flickering"
When an old alternator wears and degrades, it normally does so in stages. An alternator produces power by rotating three plates across a winding of copper wires.
These plates can degrade and DIODES can slowly fail one at a time and
then one or more plates may reduce the power output. This makes power
output vary as the alternator spins and it can cause a strobe or flicker effect.
As more plates/diodes continue to fail, the overall power output drops
to levels that will eventually stop charging your battery. When a diode fails, the amount of DC current drops and, in some cases, AC current will make its way into the vehicle’s power supply. Testing the output regularly at the battery with a voltage tester while the car is running can give indications that things are changing or wearing out. Most automotive parts stores will test alternators and batteries for free, because they want to sell parts to the owner, but keep in mind many stores have limited test equipment (and limited employee knowledge), so often a bad alternator can be diagnosed as good and vice-versa. A common reason for FLICKERING or PULSING LIGHTS is a worn out alternator. A BAD rectifier or bad DIODE in a rectifier can cause this kind of problem. An alternator generates AC current. A rectifier is a device in an alternator which converts AC current to DC. When a rectifier fails, it allows AC ripple voltage to enter the vehicles electrical system, which can cause the lights to flicker. A test can be done using a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) with an AC Voltage setting (ACV) to check the AC voltage feedback or AC ripple. This test is done by connecting the DMM to the battery while the engine is running. Keep in mind that testing for AC ripple is not always accurate with a regular (cheap) DMM . For best results, people who know more that I do will recommended using a multimeter that has true RMS (Root Mean Square) built into the meter. If you know the capabilities of your DMM, be sure it can block DC voltage while in the AC mode. You can check the battery voltage with your DMM in AC mode when the engine is NOT running. It should not show any voltage if the DC is blocked. This kind of test is done with the engine RUNNING and best after properly warming up your engine and battery. Set the DMM to read AC volts (ACV) and connect the leads to battery positive and negative posts respectively. Testing at idle can usually be fine. In some cases you may need to increase your idle to approximately 1,500 rpm, which will ensure your alternator is ramping up and charging. Put a little load on the electrical system by switching on the headlights and/or the blower motor. If your DMM reads more than 0.05 to 0.1 volt (50-100mV or milivolts) then the alternator is probably failing. Most automotive parts stores have machines that will test an alternator for free, but keep in mind that these tests will often PASS an alternator with a BAD DIODE. |
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfX_2IO69C0 |
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nhc5VqlUrY0 |
CAUTION - WARNING:
Doing Your Own Installation? ![]() Electrical parts such as these special regulators are delicate and do not hold up well to abuse. If you are not experienced with this sort of installation, then I STRONGLY recommend you have someone with experience install it for you. Otherwise, if you force the crap out of it and destroy it, please don't write me and tell me it simply "fell apart" like this customer did. |
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ALTERNATOR
OR
REGULATOR TESTING Voltage Drop Tests. The below video will help you determine the heath of your alternator power and ground connections. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGB6ZEjGm7Q |
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Is
your dash charge warning light working correctly? Here's
a quick and simple test. Take the D+ wire (small red
wire) off of the alternator and connect it with a jumper
to an engine ground (the braided ground at the back of
your cam cover will work). Turn the key on. Does the
battery lamp light up? Do the parking brake, brake
failure and bulb failure lamps come on too? The battery
lamp is good. Now you can concentrate on other
areas. The below video is quite long, but excellent. At 10:20 it gets into explaining and testing a dash charge lamp circuit. It shows how you can attach a simple 12v test lamp. Connect one end to battery+ and the other end to the D+ terminal on the alternator (not on the brush holder). If the alternator then comes to life and begins charging, you’ve discovered the problem is RELATED TO YOUR WARNING LAMP WIRE CIRCUIT. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=6&v=--AdY8z1QfU |
We might think that almost any 12 volt lamp hooked to 12 volts on one side and to the D+ on the other should be sufficient to initiate the alternator operation. It doesn't seem to work that way. The danger of too big a lamp (a lamp acts as a resistor in line) is that you might cause a condition called "Run-On," where the output from the D+ terminal (through the lamp) can become strong enough to "backfeed" power to the ignition system. If this happens, when you turn off the key the engine continues to run and will only to stop after the wire to the D+ terminal is disconnected. |
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=RD7ySDiNdwA |
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Here are some simplified diagrams BELOW that will explain how a regulator may be hooked up for static bench testing. You should follow the above video and these hook up examples below if you want to test a regulator. This is how I test a regulator if a customer returns one for testing. Such returns are almost never defective and this test will show it. If you are having trouble, I strongly urge you to look harder and do not be too quick to blame the regulator. |
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12V DC POWER SUPPLY If your work or hobby involves testing stuff like this, a 12 Volt DC Power Supply can be a big help. These can be be found fairly inexpensively as used items on eBay or other places. This one is an old-school analog type. Most available now will have digital displays. ![]() ![]() |
If you are using an external regulator (this type has a separate brush assembly), the below Full Field Test method will be pretty easy to do. It will help you determine how well your alternator is charging. In case of a problem, this procedure can help you decide if the alternator is at fault or if the regulator is at fault. This test is standard procedure in older shop manuals. You should only run the engine like this just long enough to measure the voltage and then shut it down. |
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![]() On the wire harness I supply
with the External Regulator Kit, the wire colors are: If you get a significant voltage rise (up to 16V) when
bridging these two circuits, the alternator is charging
pretty darn well and should normally be consider HEALTHY.
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Internal
Regulators |
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Replacing Worn Brushes on Regulators
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Here are some videos tutorials on REPLACING BRUSHES. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTcMD5_EznI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wZ5NdqRl7Q |
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A
good Brickboard discussion on Alternator Wear and
Slip Rings: OTHER
LINKS
But what if I think my alternator is bad? You might check out the following for tips on diagnosing a bad alternator.... https://www.misterfixit.com/alterntr.htm https://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/alternator.htm |
BATTERY CONDUCTANCE
TESTING
Do you suspect you
might need a new battery or have you been experiencing
dead or weak battery problems? |
MARINE APPLICATIONS |
![]() On occasion I get questions from customers who ask about using an adjustable regulator for a marine alternator. I don't know a lot about marine alternators, but I'm always happy to help if I can and I'm always willing to learn. So I will be adding relevant marine applications or topics here when I find them. I hope this helps. If you can help with this topic or have suggestions, please email. |
James from Colorado provided the following link to his blog: https://svhajime.wordpress.com/2019/04/03/adjustable-regulator-on-an-internally-regulated-alternator/ He had a sailing vessel with a Beta Marine diesel motor. He needed an alternator to produce a specific voltage range (13.6v) in order to optimally charge (not overcharge) his lithium iron phosphate LiFeP04 battery bank. While he could have searched for an expensive computer controlled regulator, he wanted something simple. He achieved it using one of the internal voltage regulators offered here. |
https://marinehowto.com/automotive-alternators-vs-deep-cycle-batteries/ Here's an interesting article on the subject of automotive alternators and marine applications. Most people don't know that automotive alternators are designed to reduce output as ambient temperatures increase. This is designed into car alternators so that they can better survive high under-hood temperatures long enough to live past the initial warranty period. Typical marine alternators are NOT designed this way, since most marine engine rooms are not nearly as hot as a car. |
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