Dave's Volvo Page - Volvo Relays

UPDATED: March 13, 2024 CONTACT

D O M A I N S

K, 151, 101

FUEL INJECTION, FUEL PUMP, OVERDRIVE & OTHER RELAYS

S E A R C H D A V E ' S V O L V O P A G E S B E L O W

N A V I G A T E T H I S P A G E
C l i c k a l i n k b e l o w .

Common Relay Failures	Testing Relays	Relay Location Diagrams	Repairing, Re-soldering Relays
Jumping Your Fuel Pump	CORRODED Relay Connections		Relays For Sale
Wiper Relay Adjustable 3523610-T	Green Fuel Relay 3523639	White Fuel Pump Relay 3523608
Green/White Fuel Relay 1362914	Blue/White Fuel relay 9130270	Radio Suppression Relay 1323592
Bulb Failure Sensors	Green Headlight Relay 3523200	240 Headlight Step Relay 1307991	Bosch "K" Relay 1324749

Picker Black Relay (006) 1324749	Tyco Brown Relay (151) 1235893	Picker Black Relay (151) 1235893
		Picker Black (101) 1259926
Bosch Fuel Pump Relay 1259926		5-Pole Relay Plugs	Relay Plug Terminals .250 inch
High Current Relays 80A	High Current Relay Plug	Relay Plug Terminals .375 inch	Overdrive Relays
			Blinker Relay 9442468
Cooling Fan Relay 9442933	Shipping
Fuel Pump Relay Help and Mods Page

VOLVO RELAY SPECIFIC APPLICATIONS
	240 Fuel Pump Relay (early with K-Jetronic)	240 TURBO Fuel Pump Relay	240 Fuel Pump Relay (1983-84 LH Jet 2.0)	240 Fuel Pump Relay (later white relay LH 2.2 - 2.4)
	240 Headlight Relay (IN-DASH)	240 Headlight Relay (Step Relay under hood)	240 Auxiliary Cooling Fan Relay
	240 Bulb Failure Sensor	240 Power Window Relay	240 Central Locking Relay	240 Turn Signal (Blinker) Relay
	240 Overdrive Relays	240 / 260 Wiper Relay Adjustable
	740 Fuel Pump Relay	740-760-940 Radio Noise Suppression Relay		740 Bulb Failure Sensor
	740-760-780 Central Locking Relay	740 Seat Heater Relay	740 Headlight Relay (DASH)	740 Turn Signal (Blinker) Relay
	740 Overdrive Relays	740 / 760 / 780 Wiper Relay Adjustable	760-960 Headlight Relay
	940 Fuel Pump Relay (DASH)	940 / 960 Fuel Injection Relay (DASH)	940 Headlight Relay	940 / 960 Turn Signal (Blinker) Relay
	940 Overdrive Relays	940 Wiper Relay Adjustable
	850 / 940 / S70 Headlight Relay (DASH)	850 Turn Signal (Blinker) Relay
	240 Fuel Pump not working? Suggestions HERE		Relay Location Diagrams

Volvo 240s and 740s are well known for their reliability and for going many years and miles longer than most other cars.
But some of their CRITICAL RELAYS are known for failing sometime after around 10 to 20 years of service. I don't really think these relays were built poorly. Instead I think it might be the cars are so well built, they simply outlast some of their electronic components.
So, at least for Volvos, it appears there are some relays that can be considered "wear items."

If one of these critical relays fails away from home, it could be costly (high towing expenses, wild mechanic's diagnoses, etc.).
Even though some of these relays are VERY common failures and SHOULD be widely known by anyone who works on these cars professionally, I have seen MANY mechanics insist a Volvo needs a new fuel pump, fuel injection computer, air mass meter and other very expensive parts, when in the end it was discovered it was ONLY A SIMPLE INEXPENSIVE $50 RELAY, which you can plug in yourself.

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RELAY BASICS
If you're still learning about relays, here's a good BASIC RELAY VIDEO.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQf_s45Tm74

Should You Carry a Spare Fuel Pump Relay?:

I have experienced an inconvenient fuel pump relay failure in FIVE of my Volvos over the years (240s and 740s). After one particularly stupid $200 tow bill, I made it a point to replace the original Fuel Pump Relays in my older Volvos with NEW ones, and then I would carry a good used one as a spare in my glovebox, just in case. If you have older or original relays (10 years and up) in your Volvos, or if you are experiencing intermittent or temperature related or fuel related stalls or mysterious electrical issues, it might be time for a relay replacement before it leaves you stranded.

More discussion about dealing with a Fuel Pump Relay Failure CLICK HERE

What are Common Relay Type Failures?:

I had a 1990 740 Turbo a number of years ago. When it was close to 10 years old, it began to develop intermittent stalling while driving, but it would eventually start back up after a few minutes of rest. After it happened to my wife twice, she refused to drive the car! I could not re-create it when searching or testing.

I knew it had to be a critical relay or crank sensor, and THIS CAR HAS TWO RELAYS and a CRANK SENSOR that are commonly prone to failure. So I replaced the following ALL AT ONCE:
Fuel Pump Relay (3523608) CLICK HERE,
Radio Noise Suppression Relay (1323592) CLICK HERE,
and Crank Position Sensor (3547847)
Sure enough, at least one of those was the problem and the car was good after that, plus I saved money from having my local Volvo dealer play with the car for hours.

The above three failure items relates to 1990 and later 700 and 900 series Volvos.
If you own an '89 or newer 240, the your prime failure items will be:
Fuel Pump Relay (3523608) CLICK HERE,
and Crank Position Sensor (3547847)
A 240 does not use a Radio Noise Suppression Relay for the Fuel Injection.

Volvo 240 Main Headlight Relay (1986-93 only)

Headlight relay failure info CLICK HERE.

Here's a Brickboard post regarding a couple of Radio Suppression Relay replacements....
"I have had two cars which had a problem with this relay. It is black, usually on the passenger side by the anti-freeze expansion tank. The part number is 1323592-1. My 740 had poor acceleration and hard cold weather starting here in Minnesota. The problem did not change with a replacement engine out of a 1993 940 (non-turbo). Changing this relay made a huge difference in both acceleration and cold weather starting. The reason I put in another engine is because the old engine froze with a broken intake valve. I have always wondered whether the relay, which supplies a ground to the fuel injection, could have had high resistance contacts leading to the injectors not injecting a rich enough mixture so the engine ran lean? The second case of this relay going bad was fixed two nights ago. My 1995 940 (non-turbo) with 69K miles had poor acceleration and would surge slightly while running steady. I thought the problem could be related to the years in storage even though I started it periodically and had a full tank of gas with stabilizer. I changed the fuel filter, cleaned the IAC valve and throttle body, checked fuel pressure and volume, and I could not find anything wrong. Then I changed this relay and again, it was like a different car."

Here are some emails I received about relay success stories...
"I purchased a RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION RELAY for my 87 740 Turbo wagon a couple of months ago, and thought I'd drop you a note to tell you that the car has been running great, I've been driving it every day for about the last month, with NO STARTING ISSUES!!! It was having intermittent starting issues, would be fine for a few days, then leave me stranded. I had replaced both fuel pumps and the fuel injection relay. It would start with a shot of starting fluid, then be okay for a few more days. I would have never thought that a radio noise relay would have an effect on my fuel injectors, but thanks to your site and all the information on it, I was steered in the right direction. You saved me from scrapping out a car that i truly enjoy to drive." C.W.

"Dave, thanks for posting this information on how relays can interfere with ignition. I had a gradually worsening stalling problem over the past year and a half. The mechanics could not trace it, since the stalling was never associated with a "check engine" light (good mechanics but not Volvo specialists). The symptoms usually were a failure to restart after a short stop, but it eventually worsened to stalling in traffic. I guess the engine heat would cause a bad solder joint to open up and block spark to the engine. I replaced the various relays you mentioned and I have not had any stalling since then. I wonder if a Volvo specialist would have diagnosed the problem earlier? In this case I took your suggestion to the mechanic, and he admitted it would not have occurred to him. Definitely bookmarking your site for future reference!" M.L.

"Hi Dave. Well probably no surprise to you....the car is working fine now after three months of pulling my hair out, 2 tows and 8 trips to the mechanic. You're right...too few know of this fix... I'm mechanically inclined, yet can't believe I solved this one with your help with relays from Hungary... of all places...amazing. The car currently has 145K and is a honey. Your the best." B.L., Martha's Vineyard, MA

"Hey Dave, Thank you so much. Your hypothesis that failing relays causing intermittent problems was spot on! I replaced the Overdrive Relay and it instantly fixed my phantom shifting/not shifting overdrive problems also, the car seems to auto shift at the appropriate times and RPM's more precisely, the way I remember it did. Then I replaced the Fuel Injection Relay and the intermittent stalls have disappeared - a major boost of confidence before Holiday travels! Holding off on the Noise Suppression Relay and Crank sensor for now because it's running so well! I did a lot of web crawling before I found your site and can confirm there are lots of 740 owners with the same issues - most seem to spend a bunch on Fuel Pumps and Mass Air Sensors and just about everything else, often without success. I'd encourage you to post on the various boards out there regarding Intermittent Stalling and Overdrive issues... $80 for the two relays I installed in a couple of minutes and a now in a world of Volvo goodness!" E.S., Blue Lake, CA

"I had a great outcome with the C70 – I called my mechanic and asked him if he could replace the Fuel Pump Relay in the car. He said it could be a number of things, but I told him I wanted to start with that first since it was a cheaper resolution and after researching it on your site, I felt pretty sure that was the problem. Before, the car did the same thing when he tested it in the late day / HOT sun after sitting most of the day. Car started up and died after a minute as if it were out of gas. Then he changed the relay and I’m back up and running!! He charged me for his time and the relay – out the door for $100. I think he should have paid me for finding the problem out for him. (ha ha). Thanks again. Even though it was a C70 and not the other model Volvos – the answer was the same. I'll keep one of those in the glove compartment for sure! Your site helped a ton!! M.G.

FINDING and TESTING VOLVO RELAYS

I have received a lot of emails over the years asking how to test a bad or intermittent relay. Since I'm only an "amateur Volvo tech," the best test I know for such a relay is swapping it with another (try a used one if you have one).
As for the Crank Position Sensor (240: '89-'93, 740: '89-'92, 940: all 4-cylinder models), I hear of them going out often enough in later 240/740/900 models that I would consider changing it if you suspect it's original. It will be MUCH HARDER TO CHANGE if it fails on some back-country road. The Crank Position Sensor may also be known as an Engine Speed Sensor or Crank Impulse Sender. Here's an excellent discussion thread and "how to" on replacing this sensor: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=265164. Here's a discussion on testing a Crank Position Sensor: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=316065.
Here is a good Brickboard post discussing these sensors: http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=807903

Here is some excellent info on Volvo fuel pump relays:
http://brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalCircuitsRelays.htm

Here are some diagrams I've collected showing RELAY LOCATIONS for Volvo 240, 700 and 900 models.

Relay Locations 1981 240/260 (PDF)	Relay Locations DASH, 1984 240 (PDF)	Relay Locations Under Hood 1984 240 Turbo (PDF)	Relay Locations 1987 240 (PDF)

		Relay Locations 1990 240 (PDF)	Relay Locations 1993 240 (PDF)

	Relay Locations 1987 740/760 (PDF)	Relay Locations 700/900 series (PDF)	Relay Locations 1994 940 (PDF)

REPAIRING VOLVO RELAYS

You will find a fair amount of information on the internet about this subject if you search, so I will be brief and offer some basics. Relays made for Volvos are mass-produced and the soldering on the circuit boards is not the best on some of them. After many years of use, lots of heat cycles, etc, these relays will often become intermittent or fail. Most of these failures can be traced to a solder joint or two (or three) that has become cracked. With very little solder talent, you can often repair these relays and if done properly, they can last longer than a new one. If you're going to try this, a light-duty (25A) soldering iron will work fine. And it is recommended to use rosin core solder for any electrical work.

Here we have a typical Volvo transmission overdrive relay. It's a simple procedure to open it. Use a pick or small screwdriver to gently pry the places shown so you can remove the cover. If you crack the cover, it's not a big deal, but just try to be gentle.

Here we can see the back of the circuit board. Often a solder joint will crack where the relay coil is mounted. On this relay the most common locations where cracks develop are shown by the arrows. If cracked, you should be able to see the faint crack line going around the pin that sticks out from the solder. In really bad cases you'll find that the coil has actually broken loose from the board. If you pick up a relay and shake it and can hear a rattle, look for a loose coil.

If you're curious what the coil looks like, on this relay at the left it's that brass square device in the left side of the photo. Sometimes simply re-flowing the solder in the cracked places will make the joints solid again, but if you are able, I strongly recommend adding some solder material to these locations to make the joint thicker and stronger. They crack because they're thin. Making them thicker will help keep that from happening again.

Here is a good article on this subject from the Volvo Club UK:
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/ElectricalCircuitsRelays

COULD IT BE SOMETHING OTHER THAN A RELAY?

YES!
CLEAN YOUR CORRODED CONNECTIONS AND GROUNDS
Relays usually stop working for good when they go bad. Some can be intermittent, but most are not. Most relay failures are from cracked solder joints on the circuit board. I have more detail about that above. Occasionally a cracked joint can become intermittent, but usually not.

For MOST CASES OF ELECTRICAL FAILURE of old Volvos, the relay is NOT the problem.
It's usually a simple poor electrical connection.
Sometimes it can be an overheated connector at a relay or just a corroded connection or ground in the dash or under the hood. Such a corroded connection can take years to become bad enough to cause failures or stop the car.
This happens many times faster if the car has been living outdoors for years in the weather for 30 years.

I have seen many techs and owners over many years spend enormous amounts of money swapping parts when the cure was simply cleaning electrical connections and grounds.
This is what I recommend if you have an old Volvo and you have never taken the time to do this.
Find every connection and ground you can in the dash and under the hood, loosen them and clean them. Then make sure they are snugged tight.

<<< This Fuel Pump Relay was damaged from an overheated electrical connection. The owner of this car replaced the relay and it happened again. He was told by others that it was caused by a POWER SURGE and it was getting too much current. That is B.S! If your Volvo gets struck by lightning, then it might be a victim of power surge. The reason for that melting was a poor connection on that power terminal. It was a victim of slow corrosion that developed over many years (most Volvos are stored outside all the time) and the connection might have been a little loose as well. Once it had corrosion in there the resistance went up drastically, which caused heat. The extra heat causes the corrosion to build, causing more resistance, which causes more heat until everything melts. It wasn't a current overload. This kind of thing is common and it happens over a long period of time.

The cure is a new plug and new terminals or clean the ones you have really well. Then you should coat the contact areas with a smear of anti-corrosive zinc paste.

BENEFITS OF USING ANTI-CORROSIVE ZINC PASTE
If I have not yet fully stressed the importance of clean and tight connections, I will do it again. If we can just just keep our connections clean and tight, almost all of the electrical issues would be history forever. That would be nice, right?
The below information was contributed by Ron Kwas and should come in very handy:

Anti-Corrosive Zinc Paste (a generic name for zinc dust contained in grease) was originally developed for and required by electrical codes for use on alumunum to copper electrical connections (or other dissimilar metal connections). No, it's not the same as Dielectric Grease, which is often incorrectly recommended. Dielectric Grease can buy some protection in the form of encapsulation from moisture, but it also carries with it the potential disadvantage of locking in moisture or corrosion which may have already started. Anti-Corrosive Zinc Paste (or ACZP) is the next evolution of the encapsulation principle, because zinc (lowest on the Galvanic nobility chart) neutralizes corrosion on a micro-scale to truly protect connections on a long-term basis using that encapsulation. And the zinc includes an added protection from corrosion which may want to start under there. Ron uses and recommends Penetrox A (by Burndy). Many Volvo fans are familiar with Ox-gard, which is a similar zinc compound. Ron is a huge advocate of treating ALL electrical connections on our cars (except of course High Voltage Ignition connections) with a suitable version of this material. You can learn a lot more about this stuff at Ron's page here: http://www.sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm

Main LH Fuel System Fuse (under hood)

On 1983 to 1990 240 non-turbo models, the LH fuel injection system uses a 25 amp main fuse located under your hood on the left side inner fender. It is not in any type of sealed fuse holder, so the elements can cause corrosion to invade the connector over the years. Often pulling out and re-inserting the fuse will cure this issue temporarily. For a long-term fix, clean the contacts with a wire brush, or even better, replace that fuse holder with a water-tight one, like the one found in this page: Volvo Harness Parts Page

Here's a great page with more useful info about this fuse: http://cleanflametrap.com/emfuse.html

In case of a no start, what about the

VOLVO MAIN FUEL PUMP

The main fuel pump in a Volvo is really well built and rarely fails
(Bosch simply makes great in-line fuel pumps and they last).

A good survival trick if you think a main fuel pump might be bad... give it a few quick taps with a wrench or screwdriver. For best results, if possible, tap the pump when cranking the engine (this means while power is going to the pump). If the pump is failing, often the tap will make it come back to life and it might stay running long enough to get you home. If it's a bad fuel pump relay, this trick will NOT work because there will be no power going to your pump. If you think there is no power to the pump, you might try the below suggestions on bypassing the fuel pump relay or "jumping" the pump to get power going to it again.

JUMPING YOUR 240 FUEL PUMP RELAY CIRCUIT

More info in the FUEL PUMP RELAY HELP and MODS Page

How to "JUMP" the fuel pump circuit from your Volvo 240 fuse panel:
The fastest method to make the main fuel pump run (bypassing the Fuel Pump Relay) is by jumping two circuits at the fuse panel (left side driver's side kick panel on a left hand drive 240).
The KEY DOES NOT need to be 'ON' for this.
You can make a jumper from a piece of wire with stripped ends or even a straightened paperclip. Jumping the circuits on the RIGHT side of the fuses will offer the best results. Either side will work, but the right side bypasses the fuse (in case that fuse is blown or corroded).

For a 1979-84 240, jump fuse circuit #5 to #7.
For a 1985-93 240, jump fuse circuit #4 to #6.
S e e b e l o w d i a g r a m s

For a 1979-84 240, jump fuse circuit #5 to #7.
<<< Here's a typical (1984) fuse panel diagram. Fuse 7 gets battery power directly (unswitched).

For a 1985-93 240, jump fuse circuit #4 to #6.
<<< Here's a typical (1986) fuse panel diagram. Fuse 6 gets battery power directly (unswitched).

<<< CUSTOMER SUBMITTED TIP: [Provided by Thomas Schofield] "I was left stranded today by one of my 240s, and was trying your methods to see if it was the relay that had gone out (it was). For whatever reason jumping the socket pins that the relay plugs into didn't give me any results, but bridging the 4th to 6th fuses did (it's an 89).
So, I had to figure out the best way to get that paper clip to stay in there. Turns out you can put the end of the paper clip through the hole on the end of the fuse terminal and still get the fuse to sit properly/contacted. I did that on both terminals and away I went! Held like a charm, and easy to recreate in a pinch."

If the main fuel pump under your car does NOT begin running when jumped (you should definitely hear it humming if you get close), you either have a faulty fuel pump or faulty wiring to the pump (bad wiring is fairly common under an old 240 near the pump). This test of course assumes your battery is good.
If one of the fuses at those circuits blows during this test, the pump circuit power wiring is shorting to ground somewhere between the fuse panel and the pump.

See http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm for more info.

GETTING YOUR 240 HOME WITH A
FUEL PUMP RELAY FAILURE

More info in the FUEL PUMP RELAY HELP and MODS Page

If you find that the above jump test makes your fuel pump run and you don't have a spare relay with you (or if your spare doesn't work either),
here's a trick that will get you home.

The simple trick of course is to jeep the jump wire (or paper clip) in place while driving. If you can manage to do that, your pump will run continuously and you can drive the car without any adverse affect. This won't hurt anything it as long as you have fuel in the tank. Keep in mind that when you turn off the car, your fuel pump will continue running until you disconnect the jumper.

JUMPING A MAIN FUEL PUMP FROM THE
240 Fuel Pump RELAY PLUG

Trying to securely mount a jumper wire (or paperclip) to the fuse panel so it won't fall off can be difficult. There is another way that I find much better.

1977-78 240:
Step 1. Find your fuel pump relay and unplug it.
Step 2. Look at the plug and the wire colors going into it. There will be a RED wire going into one of the terminal inserts. That is the power from the battery.
Also find the YELLOW wire. This wire goes to the fuel pumps.
Step 3. Jump or connect the RED WIRE to the YELLOW WIRE in this plug. This should instantly power the pumps ON.

1979 240 and Later:
Step 1. Find your fuel pump relay and unplug it.
Step 2. Look at the plug and the wire colors going into it. There will be a RED wire going into one of the terminal inserts. That is the power from the battery.
Also find the YELLOW/RED wire(s) (there may be TWO of this color wire going into ONE terminal). These wires go to the fuel pumps.
Step 3. Jump or connect the RED WIRE to the YELLOW/RED WIRE in this plug. This should instantly power the pumps ON.

<<< Here's a simple tool you can make yourself and throw in your glove box. I have one in mine. It's at simple jumper made with two easy to find .250 inch (6.3 mm) MALE crimp terminals and a piece of wire (14 gauge or larger preferred). These male terminals will plug right into the relay plug slots after the relay is unplugged. It might be a long while before you use it, so put a tag on there to remind yourself that it should jump the RED to the YELLOW/RED wire (or RED to YELLOW wire for pre-1979 240) to provide power to the pumps.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR 740 or 940 JUMPER BELOW.

If you are experiencing any mysterious electrical issues, here is a really good discussion thread on diagnosing a problematic late model 240 fuel pump circuit that was eventually solved:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=287210

JUMPING the MAIN FUEL PUMP in a 740/760.

Jumping the fuel pump is possible in a 740.
For 700 models with 6 cylinder and K-Jetronic fuel injection: JUMP FUSE 1 to 15.
For all EFI 740 models to 1987: JUMP FUSE 1 to 11.
For 760 and 900 models 1988 and later: JUMP FUSE 31 to 30.

JUMPING the MAIN FUEL PUMP FROM THE
740 RELAY SOCKET

<<< The 740 fuel pump relay (relay E in the diagram image, WHITE relay) is in a large multi-relay panel behind the ash tray in the center dash console. You may also perform a jumper bypass on this relay plug using the same jumper wire shown above. You may need to remove the relay (J) between you and the fuel pump relay to see better.
If you need to see the full relay diagram this image came from, it's here: https://www.davebarton.com/pdf/700-900relaylocations.pdf

JUMPING the MAIN FUEL PUMP in a 900.

For 760 and 900 models 1988 and later: JUMP FUSE 31 to 30.

JUMPING A MAIN FUEL PUMP FROM THE
940 RELAY SOCKET

<<< The 1994-95 940 fuel pump relay (relay M in the diagram image, BLUE relay) is in a large multi-relay panel behind the ash tray in the center dash console. You may also perform a jumper bypass on this relay plug using the same jumper wire shown above.
If you need to see the full relay diagram this image came from, it's here: https://www.davebarton.com/pdf/1994-940relaylocations.pdf

IN-TANK PUMP (PRE-PUMP) HOSE ISSUES

This applies to all 240/260 and many 700 models

This is a VERY common problem in Volvos reaching the age of 15 years and older. Often the actual in-tank pump is NOT broken, but the SHORT RUBBER FUEL HOSE that goes from the pre-pump to the metal feed tube inside the tank decomposes and falls apart after years of being submerged in fuel. When this hose ruptures, the in-tank pump can no longer push fuel out to the main pump. The main pump under the car will try to make up the difference, but it usually can't keep up, especially when your tank is half full or less, when your fuel level is at or below that hose rupture.

A GOOD TEST: If the symptoms go away after filling the tank up, then this is probably your problem. Opening the top of the tank (in the trunk or cargo area), removing the gauge sender and pump assembly and replacing that small hose is the cure. A simple piece of 5/16 inch fuel injection hose about 3 inches long usually works fine. And replace those cheesy original hose clamps with nice new ones while you're at it. You might be shocked to find out how many people have been advised by service technicians that they need new fuel pumps when only a short piece of fuel injection hose was needed.

More detailed info about getting into your tank can be found at http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm.

AVAILABLE VOLVO RELAYS BELOW

Many of these parts below are available here if you need one. Some are requested fairly often, so I keep them in stock.
Email me if you have a question.
CONTACT

New Variable (Adjustable Interval Delay) Relay.
In 1978, Volvo introduced the Intermittent Windshield Wiper Relay.
The delay interval was NOT originally adjustable.
PN 3523610. Other matching part numbers: 1235067, 6849780, 3202100, 83553040303. The original relay in your car is black.

Fits the following Volvos:
240 - 260: ALL 1978-1993
740 - 760 - 780: 1985-1992
940: 1991-1995

OUT OF STOCK (NLA)
This relay (in a 240) is usually found on the firewall behind the firewall carpet, behind and to the left of your brake pedal. For 1979 and later it will be wrapped in white foam for protection.
For 1978 only, it may be found at the transmission tunnel just in front of the heater box.
GENERAL LOCATION FOR 240 WIPER RELAY SHOWN IN BELOW DIAGRAMS

Volvo adjustable
intermittent wiper relay

This is a special ADJUSTABLE - VARIABLE DELAY version of the wiper relay.

INSTRUCTION GUIDE This relay has a MEMORY. Adjustment is very simple and it will allow you to easily program ANY interval between 1.5 and 22 seconds to suit any rain or mist conditions.
1.	Turn the key to ON (key position for wipers to have power).
2.	Lift the wiper lever from OFF up to the intermittent position and then back to the OFF position. After a few seconds, again lift the wiper lever up to intermittent. Done!
This relay will memorize the time interval between these LAST TWO MOVEMENTS and that will now be your new intermittent wiper interval. Any interval can be set from 1.5 to 22 seconds. To change your wiper interval again, just repeat.

Volvo Relay Location Diagrams Click Here

OUT OF STOCK (NLA)

$46.00 ea.

After adding to cart, please choose SHIPPING (CLICK HERE).

LS13

VOLVO 240 HEADLIGHT RELAY INFORMATION

High/Low Beam Step Relay, all year 240s, Volvo PN 1307991. This is the best known headlight relay, because it sits under the hood in plain sight. There are two versions of this relay. Click here to see this info. This relay controls the switching (or stepping) between low and high beams. It's controlled by the flasher stalk on your steering column. Some have been known to fail when as new as 10 years old and some last well past 30 years without problems.

STEP RELAY FAILURE SYMPTOMS:
You may suspect it has failed if you can no longer switch between low and high beams (you can hear the loud audible 'click' if it's working).
Also, if your headlights stay OFF when in low or high beam mode (so that only low beams work or only high beams work), then it is most likely this relay. But when checking, look at the two connector plugs at the bottom. If one looks melted, then there's a poor power connection causing excessive heat and a poor connection. This is usually caused by corrosion, so cleaning these contacts is a good idea.

Unlocking the Mysteries of the Volvo 240 Headlight Step Rela

Unlocking the Mysteries of the 240 Headlight Step Relay
These relays are rather special in that they have a latching feature. A latching feature is where you can click and release a momentary button or switch and the relay will lock (latch) in an on or off position. For this Volvo relay, one click latches it "ON" and another click latches it "OFF." I have created the diagram PDF at the left for anyone who wants to better understand how these work.
I have also added a test procedure to this diagram if you think you have a broken relay.

Later 240s (1986-93 only) are equipped with a SECOND headlight (in-dash) relay.
(Earlier 240s only have the one under-hood step relay above)

Main Headlight Dash Relay, This relay exists as a headlight relay in the 1986-93 240, using Volvo PN 1324749 (or 1235013)
(available below CLICK HERE).
Same as Bosch PN 0-332-015-001, 0-332-015-006, or 0-332-015-012.
Beginning in 1986, Volvo added this "main headlight relay" to the 240. Prior to this the 240 used only the dash switch to turn on the headlights and then the well known high/low step relay under the hood to turn on high beams. This "main" headlight relay is a mystery to many 240 owners, because it's tucked away out of sight under the dash.
This relay fails more often than the above step relay. The most common problem is the power connector in the relay plug can become burnt/melted (more info below).

FAILURE SYMPTOMS: Your headlights may not come on at all when the dash switch is turned, but your high beams will flash normally when the flasher stalk is pulled back. Or the headlights might turn off on their own after a short time with the switch on. The headlights may come back on after switching them off, then on again. Or you might find that you need to wait a while and try the switch again (after things "cool off"). All of this assumes you have a good battery and good fuses.

Why did Volvo add this main headlight relay?: Volvo added this relay to the 240 to take the heavy current load away from the dash headlight switch, so the heat melt damage typically found in early headlight switches would stop happening. It solved that problem, but then heat melt damage would sometimes begin to occur in the relay plug.
The reason for this melting is due to slow corrosion of the power contact point in this plug (the Red/Green wire is the power). This damage can happen slowly over many years. The corrosion will cause resistance in that power connection, which generates more heat. More heat causes more corrosion, etc. The cycle continues until things begin to get hot enough to melt like the photo at left. Not all main relay plugs have this happen, however most have some evidence of damage after 30 years. This condition eventually damages the power circuit to the point the relay loses power and fails to operate. Often making a repair can be as simple as cleaning the terminals and relay posts or replacing the bad terminal inside the plug and the plug too if it's melted bad. If the plug becomes melted like this one, a new plug is available cheap (these items can be found HERE).

WHERE TO FIND THE MAIN HEADLIGHT RELAY IN YOUR 240:
The main headlight relay will not be found in pre-1986 240s.
For most late 240s, approximately 1988-93 240s (exact beginning year is not certain), it will be behind the center dash area shown below, just below the center AC vents.
In some 1986-87 240s it may be found behind the clutch or brake pedal area (see relay location diagrams here).

Here is a look at the main headlight relay in the center dash location in a late 240.

This one is found next to and to the LEFT of the power door locking relays, which can be seen to the right of the headlight relay.
This photo was taken with the entire dash removed. You should be able to get to it by removing the center air vents and pushing the inner plastic air duct out of the way or by removing the center dash console as shown in the below VIDEO. No, Volvo didn't make it easy.

Click HERE for Relay Location Diagrams

Here's a video showing how to locate and change this center dash headlight relay:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9wftGCBWXc

1307991 Headlight Relay, 240 Headlight High/Low Beam "Step" Relay
Genuine Volvo Part
for 1978-93 240. 

Out of Stock 
No Longer Available through my sources

**CLICK HERE for Special Installation info regarding EARLY versus LATE (1990-'93) 240**


<<<  If you need new genuine Volvo plugs for this step relay, they can be found in my Harness Parts Page 
HERE: https://www.prancingmoose.com/blackvinyl.html#headlightrelayplugs

	TYCO 151 Brown Relay Replacement for Volvo PN 1235893 Compatible replacement for any common Bosch Single Pole, Single Throw (SPST). Made by Tyco (formerly BOSCH). Made in Portugal. Proper replacement for Volvo PN 1235893, 1259925 (Bosch 0-332-019-151). Other part numbers: 0-332-014-213. Rated for 40 amps (100,000 cycles), 30 amps (250,000 cycles). Relay Location Diagrams Click Here
	This relay may be used in the following locations: 1. Power window relay (see photo), 240 1978-93, 260 1978-81 (one needed). 2. 240 Seat Heater. 3. Multi-purpose relay for 240 1975-93
This relay is an SPST type (Single Pole, Single Throw) and you will see a diagram on it similar to this one here. An SPST relay will usually have 5 pins, with the center pin sometimes marked 87 or 87b. With this type of relay, both 87 pins are common and both will give power at the same time if needed. For the above noted 240 power window function the center 87 pin is not used. Email me with questions about these relays.

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	PICKER 151 Black Relay (sealed) Replacement for Volvo PN 1235893 (same as above Tyco brown relay). Compatible replacement for any common Bosch Single Pole, Single Throw (SPST). Proper replacement for Volvo PN 1235893, 1259925 (Bosch 0-332-019-151). Other part numbers: 0-332-014-213. Rated for 40 amps (N.O. contact), 30 amps (N.C. contact) 14 VDC continuous current at 77º F. This relay may be used in a number of different places in your Volvo. 1. Power window relay (see photo), 240 1978-93, 260 1978-81 (one needed). 2. 240 Seat Heater. 3. Multi-purpose relay for 240 1975-93.
	<<< This is a SEALED relay. Sealing protects the relay from moisture better than a typical non-sealed relay. Relay Location Diagrams Click Here

This relay is an SPST type (Single Pole, Single Throw) and you will see a diagram on it similar to this one here.  
An SPST relay will usually have 5 pins, with the center pin sometimes marked 87 or 87b.  
With this type of relay, both 87 pins are common and both will give power at the same time if needed. For the above noted 240 power window function the center 87 pin is not used.  Email me with questions about these relays.

IN STOCK

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Original Volvo (Bosch) metal case relay.
This 'K' Relay is No Longer Available.
COMPATIBLE REPLACEMENT FOR THIS IS BELOW (Picker 006).
Volvo PN 1324749 Bosch 'K' Relay (also known as Volvo PN 1235893).
Bosch PN 0-332-015-006 (superceded from 0-332-204-126). Also a proper replacement for Volvo PN 1235013, 1323599, 1324749.
Other part numbers: 0-332-015-001, 0-332-015-012.
This is a SPECIAL Relay: Dual Isolated Contacts rated at 15A x 2 poles.
This relay may be used in a number of different places in your Volvo. Relay Location Diagrams
1. Headlight Relay for 240 1986-93. Located in dash or sometimes behind brake pedal (1 is needed).
2. Headlight relay for 740 1985-92, 780 1987-91, 940 1991-95 (2 used in the 940).
3. Oxygen Sensor/Lambda Sond relay for 240 1977-81, 260 1980-81, 240 Turbo 1981.
4. 240 Seat Heater.
5. Multi-purpose relay for 240 1975-93.

SPECIAL RELAY: This relay is a Dual N.O. Contact SPST type (Dual Normally Open, Single Pole, Single Throw).  It has Isolated Output Contacts.  You will see a diagram on the relay similar to this one pictured here.  With this type of relay, pins 87and 87b are common when the relay is energized and both give power at the same time.  When the relay is not energized, pins 87 and 87b are isolated from each other. This special function is required in the above noted uses in a Volvo.

This relay may be used in place of any normal SPST relay, however a normal SPST relay may ONLY be used in place of this relay if the DUAL ISOLATED CONTACTS are NOT required.

Email me with questions about these relays.

No Longer Available, however the correct replacement is directly below.

'K' RELAY REPLACEMENT

Replacement for Volvo PN 1324749 (Bosch PN 0-332-015-006)
PICKER Black Relay 006.
Correct replacement for above metal case 'K' Relay.
Replacement for Bosch PN 0-332-015-006 (superceded from 0-332-204-126). Correct replacement for Volvo PN 1235013, 1323599, 1324749.
Other part numbers: 0-332-015-001, 0-332-015-012.
Correct replacement also for the "Ferrari K" or "Big K" relay.
Rated at 25 amps x 2 poles.

SPECIAL RELAY: The 'K' relay is a special Dual N.O. Contact SPST type (Dual Normally Open, Single Pole, Single Throw).  It has what is known as Isolated Output Contacts.  You'll see a diagram on the relay similar to this one pictured here.  With this type of relay, pins 87and 87b are common when the relay is energized and both give power at the same time.  When the relay is not energized, pins 87 and 87b are isolated from each other. This special function is required for a relay used in a Volvo for the functions listed.

This relay may also be used in place of any normal SPST relay, however a normal SPST relay may NOT be used in place of this relay if DUAL ISOLATED CONTACTS are required.

This replacement relay has Dual Isolated Contacts Rated at 25 amps x 2 poles.
This one has a higher amp rating than the original Bosch 'K' relay, which was only rated 15 amps x 2.

This relay may be used in a number of different places in your Volvo. >>> Relay Location Diagrams CLICK HERE <<<
1. Headlight Relay for 240 1986-93. Found in dash below center AC vents (see below photo) or in some cars behind brake pedal (1 relay is used).
2. Headlight relay for 740 1985-92, 780 1987-91, 940 1991-95 (2 used in the 940).
3. Oxygen Sensor/Lambda Sond relay for 240 1977-81, 260 1980-81, 240 Turbo 1981.
4. Seat Heater Relay for 240.
5. Multi-purpose relay for 240 1975-93.

IN STOCK

$8.00 each.

Discounts for multiple purchases below.

Please choose below.

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	Original Volvo (Bosch) metal case relay. No Longer Available. COMPATIBLE REPLACEMENT BELOW (Picker 101). Volvo PN 1259926 (Bosch 0-332-204-101, 0-332-209-151) The original metal case relay on the left is No Longer Available. See below Tyco gray relay for correct replacement. Bosch PN 0-332-204-101, 0-332-204-102, 0-332-204-110, 0-332-204-126, 0-332-209-150, 0-332-209-151, 0-332-209-158. Suitable replacement for Volvo PN 1215613, 1259926, 1324492, 1308806, 1504952. Relay Location Diagrams
This relay may be used for the following: 1. Fuel injection/fuel pump relay for 1983-84 240 DL/GL (2 used for this application). 2. Central locking relay (see photo) for 240/260 all years (2 used). 3. Central locking relay for all '84 and newer 740/760/780 (2 used). 4. Fuel Injection relay for early 240/260 (1975-77). 5. Fog light relay for 242 GT 1215613 (1977-81). 6. Lambda Sond relay for 240 Turbo 1982-85 (left fender). 7. Ignition and oil level relay for some 240/260. 8. Seat heater relay for 700 all years. 9. Fuel Injection relay for 1994-95 940 non-turbo, substitute for PN 9494787. 10. Fuel Injection Relay for 1994 960 6 cyl, substitute for PN 9494787. 11. Miscellaneous relay in 900 series.

This relay is an SPDT type (Single Pole, Double Throw) and you will see a diagram stamped on the relay similar to this one. An SPDT relay will always have 5 pins, with the center pin marked 87a. This type of relay is also known as a "CHANGEOVER" Relay. With this type of relay, pin 87a is given power only when the relay is "OFF". Then power is switched to pin 87 when relay is activated.

OUT OF STOCK
(see below Picker 101 Black relay for correct replacement)

	PICKER 101 Black Relay Replacement for above Volvo PN 1259926 NEW PICKER Compatible replacement for above Bosch metal or plastic case SPDT relay. Same configuration as Bosch PN 0-332-204-101, 0-332-204-126, 0-332-209-151 Suitable replacement for Volvo PN 1215613, 1259926, 1324492, 1308806, 1504952, (Bosch 0-332-204-101, 0-332-204-102, 0-332-204-110, 0-332-204-126, 0-332-209-151, 0-332-209-158) fuel injection and heater fan relay. Rated for 40 amps (N.O. contact), 30 amps (N.C. contact) 14 VDC continuous current at 77º F.
	<<< This is a SEALED relay. Sealing protects the relay better than a typical non-sealed relay.
This relay may be used for the following: 1. Fuel injection/fuel pump relay for 1983-84 240 DL/GL (2 used for this application). 2. Central locking relay (see photo) for 240/260 all years (2 used). 3. Central locking relay for all '84 and newer 740/760/780 (2 used). 4. Fuel Injection system relay for early 240/260 (1975-77) (Not for 0-332-014-114 pump relay. See: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=310262). 5. Fog light relay for 242 GT 1215613 (1977-81). 6. Lambda Sond relay for late 240 Turbo 1982-85 (left fender). 7. Ignition and oil level relay for some 240/260. 8. Seat heater relay for 700 all years. 9. Fuel Injection relay for 1994-95 940 non-turbo, substitute for PN 9494787. 10. Fuel Injection Relay for 1994 960 6 cyl, substitute for PN 9494787. 11. Miscellaneous relay in 900 series. Relay Location Diagrams

This relay is an known as a SPDT type (Single Pole, Double Throw) and you will see a diagram stamped on the relay similar to this one. An SPDT relay will always have 5 pins, with the center pin marked 87a. This SPDT relay is also known as a "CHANGEOVER" Relay. With this type of relay, pin 87a is given power only when the relay is "OFF". Then power is switched to pin 87 when relay is activated.

IN STOCK

$8.00 ea. or buy 2 or more for $7.00 ea.

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9442468  Turn Signal Flasher (blinker) Relay.  This blinker relay is what makes your blinkers flash on and off.  The clicking you hear is the sound of this relay.  It is known to fail after many years of use.   
Fits ALL 240 series 1975-93,
All 260 1976-82,  740 '85-92,  760 '84-'87,
760 GLE '88-'90, 760 Turbo '85-'90,  All 780,
850 '94, 940 '91-'95, 960 '92-'97.
Relay Location Diagrams

Out of Stock

9442933 Cooling Fan Relay. Old PN 3523872.
Also used for the air pump relay on a number of late model Volvos.
Fits 1992 740, 1993-97 850, 1992-95 940, 1992-97 960, 1997-98 S90/V90, 1998-2004 C70, 1998-2000 S70/V70,

OUT OF STOCK / NLA through my sources

$00.00 ea.

RELAY PLUG SOCKETS and TERMINALS

5-Pole Standard RELAY PLUG SOCKET
Suitable for all above 5-pole relays. Will NOT fit special 5-pole HIGH CURRENT relay further below.
Click here for tips on removing wire connector inserts from these sockets.

IN STOCK

$2.50 ea. for one.
or buy 2 or more for $2.00 ea.

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5-Pole Interlocking RELAY PLUG SOCKET
Suitable for all above 5-pole relays. Will NOT fit 5-pole HIGH CURRENT relay further below.
Click here for tips on removing wire connector inserts from these sockets.

IN STOCK

$3.00 ea.
or buy 2 or more for $2.00 ea.

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  .250 inch (6.3 mm) FEMALE terminals.  For all above relay plug housings.
Two wire sizes available: 
SMALL: 14-18 gauge wire recommended.   $0.40 each  IN STOCK



LARGE: 10-12 gauge wire recommended.   $0.50 each  IN STOCK

ORDER HERE:

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Quantity discounts available on orders of 50 or more of either size: $0.25 each

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HIGH CURRENT RELAYS
and HIGH CURRENT SOCKETS/TERMINALS

OUT OF STOCK
Picker HIGH CURRENT Relay. 80 Amps, 5-poles.
This is a special SPDT Changeover relay (5 poles) that you may use for any HIGH CURRENT 12V device, such as heavy duty cooling fans (Ford Taurus, Lincoln Mark VIII, etc). Pole 87 has an 80A capacity at 14V. Pole 87a has a 60A capacity at 14V. This relay has a metal bracket which may be easily removed if needed.

If using the below high-current relay plug socket (CLICK HERE), you will need
two (2) .250 inch (6.3 mm) female terminals and three (3) .375 inch (9.5 mm) terminals.
.250 inch Crimp Terminals for this relay are available above.
.375 inch Crimp Terminals for this relay are available below.

<<< Comparison Photo: Look here to see the difference this relay offers for HIGH CURRENT circuits compared to a standard relay.
It uses bigger terminals for the higher current input and output.

OUT OF STOCK

$12.00 ea. or buy 2 or more for $10.00 ea.

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This heavy duty relay is an SPDT type (Single Pole, Double Throw) and you will see a diagram stamped on the relay similar to this one. An SPDT relay will always have 5 pins, with the center pin marked 87a. This is known as a "Changeover" Relay. With this type of relay, pin 87a is given power only when the relay is "OFF". Then power is switched to pin 87 when relay is activated.

SPECIAL HIGH CURRENT RELAY PLUG SOCKET

5-Pole HIGH CURRENT Relay Plug Socket (Suitable for above 5-Pole High Current Relay).
This plug uses the following terminals:
TWO (2) .250 inch (6.3 mm) female terminals
and THREE (3) .375 inch (9.5 mm) terminals.
Correct locking crimp terminals for this plug are available below.

Click here for tips on removing wire terminals from relay plugs.

IN STOCK

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TERMINALS FOR HIGH CURRENT RELAY

High Current .375 inch (9.5 mm) locking Female Terminal

<<< TWO SIZES: SMALL fits 10-12 gauge wire (terminal on left side)
LARGE fits 6-10 gauge wire (terminal on right side).

This .375 inch terminal is also the correct size for the large male spade on the 240 junction box shown on the right >>>
or for the high current 70-80 amp relay plugs above. The 10-12 gauge size is the original size used in Volvo 240 junction boxes >>>

.375 inch Terminals: $0.75 each IN STOCK

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.250 inch (6.3 mm) FEMALE terminals.  For all above relay plug housings.
Two wire sizes available: 
SMALL: 14-18 gauge wire recommended.   $0.60 each  IN STOCK



LARGE: 10-12 gauge wire recommended.   $0.80 each  IN STOCK


ORDER Small or Large HERE:

After adding to cart, please choose SHIPPING below (Click Here).

Quantity discounts available on orders of 50 or more of either size.

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OLDER RELAY INFO
These relays are no longer available here, but I have left the info here for future reference.

3523639-A Fuel Injection Relay (Fuel Pump Relay)
Other matching part numbers: 1235337, 1324022, 1348600.
GREEN (K-Jetronic, mechanical fuel injection), Aftermarket relay made by Uroparts.
OUT OF STOCK

Fits 240 DL 1978-82 with K-Jetronic,
240 Turbo 1981-85 all,
260 1978-82,
760 (non-turbo, V6 only) 1983-86.
Relay Location Diagrams

3523608-A Relay for Fuel Pump/Injection.
New Relay, Aftermarket part made by Professional Parts Sweden.
Same as previous Volvo PN 1347603.
Also known as a Fuel Pump Relay or Main Fuel System Relay. WHITE in color.
Fits 240 DL/GL 85-93 all (LH-Jetronic 2.2 and 2.4).
740 85-92 all turbo and non-turbo.
760 87 6-cyl. (See GREEN relay 1362914 below for 1988-89 760 6-cyl.)
780 87-91 all (4 cyl turbo and 6 cyl).
940 non-turbo 91-93. (See BLUE relay below for 1994-95 940 non-turbo).
940 Turbo 91-95. (See GREEN relay below for 1991-93 940 SE and 1991-93 960 6-cyl).
Relay Location Diagrams

OUT OF STOCK

>>WARNING: Some 760 and 900 models take the GREEN relay or BLUE relay below.<<

1362914 Fuel Injection Relay. Genuine Volvo part made by Stribel.
GREEN with White base.
760 Turbo 1988-90 (4 cyl).
760 1988-90 (6 cyl).
960 (6 cyl)
940SE (4 cyl) 1991-93.

NOTE: If you have a 1994 or later 940/960 and this relay is not present (and also the white relay above is not found), then the below BLUE 9130270 relay may be your fuel pump relay.
OUT OF STOCK

9130270 Fuel Pump Relay. Also PN's 9128124, 9162250, and latest is 9494787.
Original Volvo part made by Hella.
Usually BLUE with a white base.
Fits some 1994-95 940 non-turbo 4-cylinder.
Some 1994 960 6-cylinder.

This Relay is OUT OF STOCK / NLA through my sources.
However Volvo PN 1259926 listed HERE is a correct substitute: CLICK HERE.

This relay may not be found in the usual fuel pump relay location shown by the Relay Diagrams I have listed above. Instead, it will usually be found in the front row, second from the right, in the fuse/relay board. If there is a second identical one to the right of it, that should be the high beam relay.
This relay is also designated as a Heater/Fog Light relay for 1993 and later 850 models.

1323592 Noise Suppression Relay (AKA: Radio Suppression Relay or "RSR").
Genuine Volvo part made by Stribel.
This relay is found under your hood. Also used as a Cooling Fan Relay on some Volvos, and some 700/900 models will have TWO under the hood (one for noise suppression and one for cooling fan).

Used in the following Volvos:
1988-93 240, 244, 245 (used as AC Cooling Fan Relay if the car has a front AC condenser fan)
Most 1987-92 740, 760, 780. Used as Noise Suppression Relay. Also another one used as an AC Cooling Fan Relay if two such relays are present.
1991-95 940 and 940 Turbo. Used as Noise Suppression Relay. Also another one used as an AC Cooling Fan Relay if two such relays are present.
1993-97 850 (used as Fog Light Relay)

The failure of this relay when used as a Noise Suppression Relay will cause a No-Start or Intermittent Start condition.
For 700/900 models with a non-turbo engine, this relay is mounted under the hood, often at the right shock tower at or or near the coolant reservoir. For 700/900 models with B230FT (turbo) engines this relay is often mounted near the left shock tower. On some models you will find TWO of these. In these cases one will function as a Noise Suppression Relay and the other an Auxiliary Cooling Fan Relay. They are interchangable and can be swapped during an emergency if the Noise Suppression Relay fails. If the Noise Suppression Relay starts going bad, you may get intermittent starting problems (and/or intermittant running) since the electrical pulse to the fuel injectors will be interrupted. If the engine turns over OK, but it won't fire, then this could be the problem. Often as these cars age, the failure point will be the 4-pole connector plug (and insert terminals) instead of the relay.

<<< Locations of Noise Suppression Relay under 700/900 hood.

<<< In an attempt to remove some of the mystery of this relay, I created the diagram to the left. If you think this relay may have failed in your car, you may test by temporarily bridging pins 87(3) and 30(4) on the connector plug. This will provide power to your fuel injectors as if the relay was functioning normally and can get things running in an emergency.

OUT OF STOCK

1323592A Noise Suppression Relay (AKA: Radio Suppression Relay or "RSR"). Aftermarket part made in Germany by Kaehler. This relay is found under your hood. Also used as a Cooling Fan Relay on some Volvos, and some 700/900 models have TWO under the hood (one for noise suppression and one for cooling fan).
Used in the following Volvos:
1988-93 240, 244, 245 (used as AC Cooling Fan Relay if the car has a front AC condenser fan)
1988-92 740, 760, 780 (used as Noise Suppression Relay and an AC Cooling Fan Relay if two relays are present)
1991-95 940 and 940 Turbo ( used as Noise Suppression Relay and AC Cooling Fan Relay if two relays are present)
1993-97 850 (used as Fog Light Relay)

OUT OF STOCK

FAILURE OF
VOLVO BULB FAILURE SENSORS
OUT OF STOCK

The Bulb Failure Sensor (also known as a Bulb Failure Relay) is a device found in the 1978 and newer 240 (and 700/900 models). Its function is to alert the driver of a failed low-beam headlamp, parking lamp, tail lamp or brake lamp by sensing the balance of current draw between the left and right side lighting circuits. When that dash light comes on, it means the sensor recognizes that one side is drawing more current than the other. This is supposed to mean there is a bulb out, but often it can be triggered by incorrect bulbs, mismatched bulbs, or even when one side has a newer bulb than the other.

Variations of this sensor.
ROUND Sensors:

<<< Red case, PN 1362370. Fits 1986-93 240, 1986 and later 740, 780, and 1991-94 940.

<<< Yellow case, PN 1362278. Fits 1978-85 240 and 740 through 1985.

<<< White case, PN 1362276, found in a 1991 245 (German spec. with no third brake light) that was later imported to Norway.

Square Sensors:
Yellow Square case, PN 3545704, for 1988-90 760, 1991-94 940 SE and 960
Blue Square case, PN 9128814, also fitting 1988-90 760, 1991-94 940 SE and 960.

The failure of these relays is becoming more frequent in older Volvos.
FAILURE SYMPTOMS: The symptoms of failure can be headlights or tail lights (or sometimes just one whole side) that will not work even after verifying that fuses, switches, headlight relays and wiring are all in good order.

BYPASSING or ELIMINATING THIS SENSOR IS POSSIBLE in Your Volvo
Go to my 240 Modifications Page at https://www.240turbo.com/volvo240mods.html

1362900 Headlight Relay
Genuine Volvo part (made by Hella)
for 1988-94 760, 960 (with fog lights)

OUT OF STOCK.

Possible Replacement Solution: CLICK HERE

3523200 Headlight Relay
Genuine Volvo part (made by Stribel)
for 1993-97 850, 1995-98 960, S90 or V90, 1998 S70/V70 (w/o fog lights)

OUT OF STOCK

OVERDRIVE RELAYS

3523804-A Overdrive Relay (White)
Made in Germany by Kaehler.
Fits below models with AUTOMATIC transmission:
240 1985-1993, 240 Diesel 1985, 240 Turbo 1985, 740 1985-1992, 740 Diesel 1986, 740 GL 1989, 740 GLE 1989-1990, 740 Turbo 1985-1992, 760 1983-1987, 760 Diesel 1984-1985, 760 GLE 1988-1990, 760 Turbo 1984-1990, 780 1987-1991, 780 Turbo 1986-1990, 940 1991-1995, 940 Turbo 1991-1995.
Scroll up this page to find locations for this relay in your Volvo.
Go to my 240 Mods Page to see diagrams and interchange info.
Relay Location Diagrams

Out of Stock

1307793 Overdrive Relay (the ORANGE one)
Original Volvo part made by Hella.
For 240 1981-1984 with AUTOMATIC transmission
Go to my 240 Mods Page to see diagrams and interchange info.
Relay Location Diagrams

Out of Stock

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